xrayfk05

Recommending to buy a device costing almost the same as his press is excellent advice. See that a lot on this forum, something doesn't work just throw a lot of money at it. Good to hear you got it Resolved though.

@ 4:20 he shows how to remove the thumb safety. (non optifit safety) Why are you removing the safety on a new gun anyway? If it is just to change mainspring, just pin the grip safety with a rubber band so the sear spring doesn't get dislodged. Main spring lenght is the same as any, a 19# should set of any primer, a 17# should also work unless you are using really hard primers. Which are you using? (Mine came with a 17# which I changed to a 19# because I use hard/cheap primers, Ginex in my case) I am not a fan of cutting springs, springs are funny, they do not respond to cutting like you would think.

I take it you are talking about .40 cal ? What recoil spring are you running in the 6", going with a heavier spring may solve it if it is really light.

Looks like you can rent it on Netflix, maybe that is an option? http://dvd.netflix.com/Movie/Here-Come-the-Brides-Season-1/70048254 I cannot access this page from where I live so I cannot give you any more info.

Nothing much to say about them shot over 25K of them in my 19/2011's and using the small and large rifle versions as well. Go bang every time you pull the trigger, they are supposed to be pretty hard I would not go below a #19 mainspring on a 19/2011. Not recommended for a (tuned) striker fired weapon.

Did you try using a bit more lube? I also use the Dillon spray for FL sizing .308 and .223, I apply it liberally and it works pretty well. I have never used anything else so I can't compare but even resizing .308W does not require a lot of force. (Of course "a lot" is a very subjective term)

And Vithavuori themself lists 3 loads for 147 grain bullets, guess can't find means lazy nowadays With the newer batches of N320 you need to load a bit higher so I have heard, you may want to check if you need to make PF.

How did he clear the squib? He will have to ram something down the barrel to clear the stuck bullet, that is the "dangerous" part.

Here is a post that compares Mitutoyo calipers to cheaper ones: http://www.fliptronics.com/tip0006.html TLDR: They all read the same and using the same amount of force to close the calipers is more important than the brand. The Mitutoyo are more energy efficient though, allthough the cheaper ones are usually fed cheap batteries which run out very quickly. You want to use a SR44 not a LR44!

I went with 3.7 grain for a PF of 132 average under a 145 grain plated bullet. (LOS) 1.15'ish OAL. Anything under 3.7 grain got me widely varying speeds, loading for a shorter OAL my fix that.

It may fix it at least temporarily since you will be using a new insert, it will probably develop the same play as your old insert. Double Alpha does offer a muzzle support for the holster though, that may be what you are looking for. Although it may not fit old versions of the holster.

You could buy the Mr Bulletfeeder expander/powder funnel but they are pretty expensive. (near $40) More or less case flare may also help but you will keep some tipped bullets.

For me it was easy, less noise, no dust, no media to replace eventually and faster. Dump the washed cases in a sieve, rinse them and let airdry 1 day will do it if not 2. The cases being shiny, insides clean as well as the primer pockets is just a bonus.

The one thing that comes to mind is that you may have screwed in the die too much. Try setting it up again. I have the 9mm version and it is almost flawless, only using FMJ or plated though. What press are you using?

Sarge, that's where the universal decapper comes in I don't see how it would center all different caliber cases enough to punch out the primer which just 1 shellplate. Let alone a .45 shell plate holding onto a 9mm case. Or are you trying to sort the .45 brass from the rest with the case feeder?

A standard sear spring will most likely be too short for a Para.

If that does not help you perhaps you can try explaining the problem? Otherwise shoot Saul a mail, he responds pretty quickly.

You can get SVI steel grip guns without the grip safety, bit above budget maybe Just pin it or live with it I don't really see the issue.

I thought a shorter round would make for a higher velocity, at least that is what people tell me. After some testing with my pet load I find it is not the case, at least not for my load. Could anyone enlighten me? Are my rounds long enough not too be influenced by OAL for example? Load data and chrono data : (Cases same headstamp, oal measured with calipers) all number 10 shot averages. 3.2 grain Lovex D032 / 145 grain plated bullet (LOS roundnose) OAL 1.161 OAL 1.149 speed / powerfactor speed /powerfactor Hi 923 133.8 925 134.1 Low 905 131.2 908 131.6 Average 917 132.9 917 132.9 Extr.spread 18 17 Stand.dev 7 7

http://www.sviguns.com/4007.php ?

Buy a cheap hygrometer to see how humid is in the garage. My garage has a 70% humidity and stuff rusts pretty quick.

If the normal works like it should it is a lot lighter and smoother than the magnetic version. The resistance of the magnetic one is higher than you can achieve with the "old" version. The magnets are a blessing for guns that don't play so well with the "old" one, like ParaOrd, Glock etc. For STI plastic I would definitely go with the old non-magnetic version.

Not sure if I understand correctly, but it's normal that a round does not chamber if it is in the chamber. The extractor is designed so the rim of the round slides past the extractor from below, instead you are trying to force the extractor over the rim.

Ah yeah. Probably a steel match?

Noone said anything about starting with a gun in the hand. Extending your arms when holding a gun would be counter productive. Parallel is parallel, otherwise you will be cutting the first guy some slack, the second guy a bit more and where does it end?