xrayfk05

Autocomp is too slow for soft shooting loads, I'd suggest something like Bullseye/W231/#2/N320/Titegroup/sport pistol and than somewhere between 3.5 and 4.0 grains depending on powder/bullet. (Check the reloading data for the powder you are going to use) Around 4.0 these powder will start making 125PF with 124 grain bullets to give some reference. Slow(er) powder burn poorly when loading minimum loads and can get pretty dirty.

It's not about what you ammo makes but what you declare, if you declare minor you can use 10 rounds. I don't see why you would not load them to minor(ish) if you decide to shoot minor but OK. If you want to be lazy use a 155 grain bullet instead of a 180 without changing powder drop for instance.

Just for shielding the powder from the sun The windows are on the south.

I have my presses close enough together for the bullet feeder to work on both while still hanging from the case feeder on the 650. (I know, it looks silly with the spring bending like that, but it actually works better than "how it should be". I never failed and I have never had a double feed of the bullet die because it didn't reset.) Depending on your bullet profile changing over bullets/calibers can be a bit of a pain, for my flatnose bullets I have to get the nose feeder in the bullet feeder just right. DAA just came out with this which may be a great time saver: Mr.BulletFeeder Pre-Set Nose-Guide (doublealpha.biz)

That's impossible, as soon as the bullet leaves the barrel the only forces acting upon it are gravity and drag. It will be slowing down and dropping, unless fired straight up or down ofc Do a search for ballistic calculator and you can easily find out for yourself, for any distance.

Than you have been using the wrong terms for 13 years verb (used with object), swaged, swag·ing. to bend or shape by means of a swage. to reduce or taper (an object), as by forging or squeezing. On topic: load a handful and see how they work. Only way to find out.

I am not sure what you have or haven't tried when I read your post, so apolagies if you allready tried this. If you size a case, bell it and then run it thru the crimping station skipping the seating die. Does it fit the case gauge or plunk test? Don't bother measuring 9mm brass, I have yet to find anyone who needed to do that.

The 9mm dropper has 2 options for the ball bearings, one for long (normal) bullets and 1 for shorter bullets. Have you tried the shorter option?

They are Someone gave me a box a few months back, they are a bit hard to set off and harder to seat. If you are using a press with little leverage (Square Deal) and a pistol with a soft touch they don't work very well. Hence I got them @Miranda my RF100 works just fine with any small primer I tested, maybe 1 in 5000 primers is upside down. (Ginex, S&B, Fiocchi, Federal)

I mean this one : Not the one with the large roll on top of the paster. Eventually it will run out of sync, only half a paster comes out, pasters will stick inside the machine etc. We had maybe about 10 and ditched all of them, other clubs as well.

We mostly switched over from paster guns to paster holders like the ones DAA sells or you can print yourself: 22mm Target Patch Dispenser by SamK3D - Thingiverse And tbh, the printed ones work better than the DAA ones. Main reason is that the only tape guns available are the ones DAA sells and those don't last and are prone to issues. (And the people pasting don't know how to fill them)

I would go for a "real" case feeder and skip the bullet feeder, if you have 1 of the 2 the other is just nice to have but does not add much speed wise. It is more comfortable with both, but not really needed. When I loaded on the 650 with just the case feeder I could do about 1200 round/hour with both case and bullet feeder it went to about 1300 round/hour. Not a really big improvement. (Number are just the loading process, not filling primers/cases or bullets) On my LnL AP I use a bullet feeder and I do not feel the need to add a case feeder, you have a hand spare anyway.

In my experience a good bullet will be accurate no matter what charge you put behind it. (Barring the extremes) Other than that SD says nothing about accuracy, certainly not in handguns.

You missed the "major" part in his question...

If it feels like 9mm you are just nowhere near major PF with .40. The only thing I read in your post is that it cycles, which is not what were are looking for.

A Para 18.9 LDA But if you are allready shooting a S2, why not stick with that? (Guess that's a Shadow 2 at least)

Last time I needed some stuff I could not find it on their site so I asked them for quote for those parts. All I got was reply "If you pay the shipping the parts are free". Most parts were not even subject to wear, just missing on the used press I bought.

Websites with "insertnameofprimersmanufacturer" are never legit, if they do not offer a "normal" way to pay they are for sure scammers.

If the dropper die can move freely you do not need the tension spring assembly, it is only needed when the die gets hung up and drops multiple bullets. this usually happens when the die is under tension from the bullet feeder spring, you can prevent this by adjusting the position of the bullet feeder itself and shortening the spring if needed.

If you are just looking at getting a few more rounds loaded per hour maybe a case feeder will help. DAA makes a mini case feeder which is not too expensive. You still have to manual load the cases in the tubes but you can keep your right hand in the handle at all times. Otherwise something like a Pal filler or perhaps the Hornady/Frankford Arsenal versions might be worth checking out. All depending on how quick you are at filling tubes at the moment. And in fighting? It's a forum, people post there opinions and arguments for them. That's what forums are for Yes, people call you crazy for buying a 5K pistol, but if you go on 5K holiday for 3 weeks no-one blinks an eye.

Of course it all depends on your budget, if I had the cash I would also buy a Mk7/1100 with all the bells and whistles. But since we are talking about Boatdoc specifically, he mentions not having the $$ on hand right away meaning there may be better ways to spend that extra 2K, 3k or even 4K needed for an automated setup. Also he is loading 9mm and .45 both of which do not need pre-processing and only go thru the machine once. Point is, on this forum "everyone" seems to have plenty of cash to buy the latest and greatest and that is perfectly fine. But there are other options that will also work for a lot less and it doesn't hurt to point that out as well.

An automated loader is overkill for "just" 25K rounds a year, I'd even say a 1100 is overkill for that unless you need the swaging option. A 650 or 1100 will do 1000 rounds an hour easy, without even a bullet feeder. Is saving 25 hours a year worth 2 or 3 grand? (And that's excluding getting it to work properly and still having to keep an eye on it) Get an automated primer filler if you do not have one, will save you more time for less money. For lighting I use a 12V LED car tail light in the center hole of the 650, works just as well for just a few bucks. As for the topic question: 1300 9mm an hour on the 650 with both bullet and case feeder. 1100 .40 an hour on the LnL AP with just a bullet feeder. (Only counting handle time, not refilling primers/bullets/cases/powder)

The LDA versions do not have a 1911 trigger/sear assembly so those jigs will not work.

It happens after the beep, they do not lock the holster before sitting/laying down and do not pay attention if they gun can fall out when getting up, or even sitting/laying down. I have a DAA for 6 years and now I have a MRH, if it's locked the gun is staying in. No question about that.

Mine as well. I'll take the occasional DQ for sweeping for granted.