Ludde

To be honest.. aren't you all talking about the shortest take up or slack. Not the reset. The reset is determined by the sear leg and triggerbar geometry. The disco only limits the take up or slack.

Who's that?

Is there anyone here that shoots limited/standard minor with a CZ Czechmate? How would you rate it compared to a regular TS or TS orange in 9mm minor? How does it balance/transition, what's the recoil like etc. Does anyone have a fiber optic front sight for the Checkmate sight block? Thinking of getting a CZ TS style gun for IPSC standard and thinking that I might get a 2 for 1 deal if I would get a Czechmate. (perhaps sometimes in the future try open...) I do want to focus the discussion on the difference in parts (grips, magwell etc). I already have a CZ 75 SP-01 Shadow and is quite familiar with that in IPSC production.

Yes short time and travel during lockup. But a lighter recoil spring will cause the slide to travel slower at the very end of the "reloading cycle". A slide with lower travel speed will have less force exerted on the slide stop when it is about to lock up. Thats also why you get less dip with a lighter spring.

There are points related to stroking that maybe can have an impact. E.g. the speed of which the slide travels, especially the speed at the end of travel in any direction. If that is just a tad less than without stroking you can decrease the forces that are exerted on the slide stop during lock up. In theory you should be able to use a lighter recoil spring in a stroked gun and still get reliable feeding because the force needed for e.g. chambering the round (strip it from the magazine, push it up the feed ramp etc.) is still accumulated in the lighter spring since it is compressed further. The same lighter spring will most likely also have a little less travel speed at the end of the motion since the lighter spring exerts less force (equals speed) at the very end of the travel compared to a "stronger" spring with less travel. Just my view on it explained short and somewhat fuzzy....

I recently purhased VZ grips palm swell model with their golfball pattern. I've previously used/tried several CZ factory grips and LOK grips bogies variants such as regular bogies, extra thick bogies and palm swell bogies (old style with the buldge in the top). I thought I would show a comparison between the recently bought VZ grips and the new LOK grips Shadow 2 palm swell model. Just so if anybody is considering bying either or the pictures might give an insight on the differences between the two. LOK Grips CZ Shadow 2 palm swell, http://lokgrips.com/gun-grips/cz-shadow-2/palm-swell/cz-shadow-2-palm-swell/ VZ Grips CZ 75 palm swell, https://vzgrips.com/pistol-grips/cz-75/palm-swells/golfball3 Some things that I've noticed: The LOK grips pattern is a bit more aggressive than VZs golf ball pattern. The swell portion of the grip is a bit more elongated on the VZ grip. Personally with my size 9 hands I would like to have the swell portion a tiny bit higher on both. The VZ ones go all the way to the top on an "old" 75 series guns. Which one fits you is not for me to state. Fit and finish is great on both and when it comes to customer service Jayson at LOK Grips is hard to beat especially if you want something tailored. If someone is interested in a older post comparing other LOK grips check the following link:

check this page for pics. http://www.olegnikitin.com/news/complete-disassembly-assembly-of-cz-75-sp-01-shadow

Have you checked that the right side safety goes on the safety "shaft" when it is out of the gun completely? If it is a new one it might require slight fitting (filing of the hole on the lever itself). If that is ok, start by putting in the right hand side safety at first, 90 degrees pointing upwards, push it in, rotate it back down. Then put into place the left side safety (remember to pull back the detent).

Can someone take a picture of them straight from behind the gun so it is visible how much palm swell they have?

Do you have the trigger with a over travel set screw. If yes then back that out a bit and try again

Atlas have you also rounded of the underside of the outside chamber part of the barrel? Do you have enough contact on the frame or is it needed at all?

If you look at the design. When is the slide stop stressed? According to my observation the slide stop is mechanically stressed when the gun goes back into battery (i.e. when the slide travels forward after picking up a new round). The slide travel forward is essentially stopped by the slide stop pin. Without the pin the slide and barrel would continue forward towards the berm. When slide is moving rearwards during recoil the slide hits the frame and is stopped without slide stop having any effect in the scenario. You increase the level of stress if you have a strong recoil spring (increase in slide travel speed in that direction) and most definitely if you let the slide slam forward on an empty gun, i.e. without any rounds in the magazine, using e.g. the slide stop release letting the slide slam forward without having any new round being chambered and thus slowing down the action a bit. Weaker recoil spring and don't slam the slide forward on an empty gun will prolong slide stop life.

Hi All, Just wanted to share what I discovered recently. Our IPSC shotgun shooting friends here in Finland (King Competition Products) mainly know for their awesome shotgun shell rigs have now come out with a kit to shorten the stroke and fix timing issues related to out running the action on a Benelli Super Nova or Nova pump shotgun. Rumors has it that with this kit it will run reliably even with soft magazine springs under high speed conditions. They also seem to have tightened the slots for where the bolt carrier sits in order to have less slop and hopefully get more reliable feeding and extraction as well. Link to product: http://www.kingcompetitionproducts.com/product/34/king-rsb2-short-action-system

If its only 4.8" ~121mm then it qualifies.

What's the price difference between yours and a factory prepped Stock 2 Extreme?

Then I guess JJ should train harder.. ? He recently posted a picture on instagram of his Production division stock2 with a palmswell grip on the left side and a flat one on the right side. Personally i also use a slightly thicker grip on the left side on my cz shadow. With my handsize and my grip I get noticeable more traction with my weak hand on the gun than with a thin grip on both sides. Why I dont have a thick grip on the right side also is a different story...

The disassembly process is the same for almost all CZ 75 line of pistols including the Shadow 2.

In IPSC you can have any material (weight) grip you want as long as they match the original profile and contour of OEM grips.

Hi, If you want the "smaller" ejection port opening and full utilization of all the locking lugs you have to specify that you want a small frame Tanfoglio.

CZ UB has a list of 3 other options when it comes to thumbrests for the TSO or Czechmate. Might be hard to find but I assume that seboweapons.com might be able to help since he is the CZ team shooter in Europe.

Interesting.. is it possible to get some pics of the slide machining? Is the recoilsystem intact (how is the recoilspring held in place)? I've always wondered why CZ doesn't do as tanfo and I've assumed that they have a bit different slide profile with more meat allowing it to be hogged out without compromising the strenght of the slide.... but It's just my assumption and that's why I am curios to see how you did it.

The CFD aluminium comp. How is it fixed to the barrel? The original CM comp is held in place or stopped from rotating by the guide rod.. what about the CFD? Just glued in place? How do you clean the gun?

Just out of curiosity, WHY are you using a disconnector in the first place in an SA only gun? Shouldn't the pre-,overtravel adjustments allow for the same kind of adjustment as a "BOLO" disconnector and without it you have less trigger mechanism components...

I would like to point out that is clearly states if the hammer is placed on the SAFETY NOTCH - Meaning in half cock position. You should not be able (at least they come from the factory this way) to put on the safety while completely de-cocked. However tolerances play a factor even if using OEM parts and in some cases if not fitted as intended from factory you can engage the safety even in fully de-cocked position.. However the CZ DA/SA guns are considered "safe" if fully decocked. One should not use the safety in DA (fully decocked).

From my personal experience on all the untouched CZ 75 SP-01 Shadows I've fiddled around with you CANNOT engage the safety while the hammer is fully decocked. They are designed that way from the factory. IF you change the hammer, sear or the safety (OEM parts) you will have small tolerances and/or if you have to fit the sear/safety engagement points you can easily have a gun that can engage the safety while the hammer is fully decocked. It is a matter of tolerances between parts and/or if someone fit them in that way. Nothing wrong with it but I always fit or change out parts so that it remains as from factory meaning you cannot engage the safety while fully decocked. Tanfos on other hand come from the factory with the possibility to engage the safety while fully decocked.