Ludde

My personal opinion is that it does not matter as long as it is safe. Meaning that it is possible to put the safety on when the hammer is fully cocked (SA) as intended in the original CZ design. If then somebody has fitted original CZ or aftermarket parts that allows you to also put the safety on when fully de-cocked (DA) does not make it less safe and you have not removed any of the safety functions. For example the Tanfoglio line of pistols works this way.

The latest IPSC Production division rules allow for any trigger mechanism modification. Springs, hammers, disco, firing pin, trigger and so on! If you want the CGW stuff go ahead!

The safety is not possible to apply when the hammer is not cocked on an unmodified CZ! The Tanfoglios are different in that aspect. This is based on several stock CZs that I own and it is also stated in the CZ armourers manual. Depending on how you fit the sear/safety you will get your desired function.

Is that the new APEX stuff?

Already discussed earlier..:

Swapping in a new trigger bar spring doesn't mean that it is adjusted correctly. They can change and twist when the retaining screw is tightened. It's good to tweak the side to side tension/position and up/down tension when changing out the trigger bar spring or when facing similar DA timing problems. Are the legs of the trigger bar spring exactly in the center of the shallow grooves in the trigger bar? Is one of them more to the side rubbing the wall of the frame compared to the other side? Have you tried to tweak and increase the upwards tension and checking that both sides lay in the groove under the trigger bar after the recent posts to see if it helps or are you just assuming that it is correct? Just trying to help out and point out possible solutions

If the disconnector is releasing the DA stroke to early causing light strikes or making the hammer fall to half cock you need more upwards spring pressure on the trigger bar. You can try to increase the trigger bar spring pressure by pulling the spring a little bit to the inside making it possible to slip past the trigger bar and bend it lightly upwards. The pressure should be somewhat the same on both sides. It does not matter if it's stock springs or not.. you could have accidently altered the tension while you cleaned the gun with a rag or something like that and it accidently catched the spring and pulled it a little bit down causing it to push less on the trigger bar.

Are you aware that CZ now also makes the same Shadow 2 style wide safety for the 75& SP-01 line of guns? https://www.czub.cz/en/produkty/pistole/competition/cz-75-sp-01-shadow-838.html I have this on my old Shadow and it is nice!

It was an answer like this that I was "searching" for. I 've studied the FCD and was afraid that this might be the fact with "soft" bullets...

It can make a little difference to evenly decrease the trigger bar spring tension by slightly bending them downwards. If you take to much DA might start falling into halfcock or SA not resetting. The you just bend it a little upwards to increase the pressure. I would also recommend a 9 or 10 lbs main spring.

All the parts swapped or changed to new. It is a big difference compared to the factory trigger mechanism parts. I've used the CZ UB Shadow 2 0.2 disconnector along with an old CZ UB DA/SA race hammer borrowed from the old Shadow. Then a mix of suitable springs and tweaking the factory triggerbar spring. The trigger is excellent (and I am picky with my triggers). Still waiting for a thinner 2.7mm front sight (factory 3.0mm wide) and some other LOK grips to test out. http://www.luckydelta.com/shop/CZ-Teile-Tuning/Diverse-Tuningteile/Unterbrecher-Disconnector-CZ75-ZERO-0-2.html

Just for your information if someone needs a good Shadow 2 style wide safety for the CZ 75 lineup of guns (in my case the SP-01 Shadow). It is now available from CZ UB and comes from the factory on the SP-01 Shadow Orange. I bought mine from a European dealer LuckyDelta http://www.luckydelta.com/shop/CZ-Teile-Tuning/Sicherungen-Safety/CZ75-SP-01-SHADOW-ORANGE-WIDE-SAFETY-SET-RECHTSHAND.html I have never liked the different safeties on the CZ 75 style of guns but this one is really good even if I use a high grip it interferes little to none. On this old Shadow modified for IPSC standard division (minor) I've also chosen to go with the TS Orange or Czechmate style hammer. The trigger is really nice! I've also used thick retro brass grips that are slightly grind down and epoxied with SiC. Grips: http://www.luckydelta.com/shop/CZ-Teile-Tuning/Griffschalen/Griffschalen-CZ75-85-MESSING-BRASS-RETRO.html

What crimping dies do you use and why? Pros n cons? I currently use Dillon carbide pistol dies set on a XL650. Using different plated or painted bullets (0.356) generally a majority of them that don't case gauge a 100% (but really close). Majority still function and drop free in the barell chamber. Increasing the crimp can sometimes aid a bit but not completely eliminating the problem. If increasing the crimp from the current setting I get visible crimp marks on the bullets. After examining the final product i think the problem might be the "case" buldging a bit further down on the case (not close to the crimp edge). Would e.g. a LEE Factory Crimp Die aid in this or will that also "groove" the bullet by crimping or sizing the case with bullet too much in the process?

Just reveived my Shadow 2 and comparing it to my tuned SP-01 Shadow with the CZUB race hammer the creep in SA is ugly on the Shadow 2 stock hammer. Guess I'll swap from the SP-01 Shadow.

Is the "CZ hammer" and hook depth the same as we get in Europe from CZ UB? https://www.czub.cz/en/kohout-sa-da.html NWfront, personally I prefer crisp over a smooth or rolling break. I generally balance or play around with a couple of different spring combos to get the feel i like (mainspring and sear).

I am wondering if someone of you have tried back to back compare the stock Shadow 2 hammer vs the czub da/sa race hammer. Is there any noticable difference in SA break?

I know its not a TS but for my regular SP-01 Shadow in IPSC production division i went from heavy to light bullets and tuned the recoi/mainspring for that load. That helped me achieve faster split times and more consistent hit where I want them to be. Judged not only by feel but by being true to yourself and testing different drills and targets, what dl you see.. evaluate the hits and the time etc...

And slide travel length (2011 vs CZ) effects the timing also...

Oh! I didn't know that. Well that's a good thing.

You can tilt the whole holster in almost any direction and slide it up or down, but you cannot slide the holster body out or in from your body! However the older style racemaster or racer balljoints are bad in that sense that ones you tighten it so it wil stay you cannot adjust in small increments anymore because you will have divets in the balljoint from the lock screws. Basically adjust, lock it down and hope you don't discover later on that you need to make a small adjustment because then you need a new balljoint..

What would you say is the downside with the LEE Factory Crimp Die compared to lets say the LEE Taper Crimp Die? https://leeprecision.com/carbide-factory-crimp-die-9mm.html https://leeprecision.com/taper-crimp-die-9mm.html I am currently using Dillons taper crimp die.

Now I've done some measurements & adjustments to the press. What's your guys view on the findings and result? Mixed brass same 123gr LOS copper plated FP bullet re-adjusted the case mouth flare a bit and the roll crimp. It is hard to be real exact when measuring the case mouth after crimping getting the jaws of the calipers as far out on the case edge as possible. I also made sure to measure same case several times and use several samples to get a couple of average measurements. I have not case gauged them yet... https://www.los.si/en/copper-plated-bullets/

I'll do my best to measure it..

Quick question to you all. Please give your expert opinion. Every now and then, perhaps 1 or 2 per 100 rounds a bullet keyholes on the target. I use VV N320, mixed brass Los copper plated 123gr FP ~130pf. The barrell has been thoroughly cleaned and that helped a bit. It helped also somewhat when I changed from 145gr to 123gr. Initially I could use 145gr without problems also. Do you think I have too much crimp?

Then they have touched other parts than the disconnector only.