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Ludde

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Everything posted by Ludde

  1. They are not. Check the exploded diagram. There are differences. Also take look at the linked youtube video.
  2. Not the sear spring. Isn't it so that the trigger return spring no 8 is also acting as the spring pushing the trigger bar upwards if installed correctly? Try and check that.. Personally I don't own an TS. On SP-01 (75) it is a separate trigger bar spring no 34. Check 14:00. https://youtu.be/4_vzv8jNxdk?t=14m
  3. CZ UB makes brass magwells i would assume that they are even heavier than the stainless ones. Maybe you are after the hardness and not the weight....
  4. Does this Russ dude have any contact info or homepage?
  5. I have a CZ Shadow and the DAA Race Master holster has quite a lot of play in it in locked position. Practically it makes no difference. Both Ghost and Manny holsters are more solid. Even the china express variants.. just my experience...
  6. Ludde

    CZ 75 TS Orange

    Hi, Has anyone seen, touched or heard rumours about the new CZ 75 TS Orange foundin the 2015 catalogue? Looks like a IPSC standard version based somewhat on the Czechmate frame and some other goodies.
  7. Why would you need a xtra power sear spring?
  8. I have the plastic racer puches and they do stay put I tourqued them hard. A down side to the racer pouches are that there are too many "loose" parts. In my opinion they are over engineered (that's coming from an engineer). When I set my tension to what I like (that's almost the loosest setting) I every now and then have parts (leafspring and block) flying all over the place when I go for a fast and aggressive mag change.
  9. Hi, Try looking at that one: http://www.mannyusa.com/Firearms_Training/product/Futuristic_Magnetic.html http://www.suomiase.com/en/ipsc/201-ipsc-kotelo.html (Original manufacturer) I've personally got the DAA racemaster for a CZ 75 SP-01 shadow and I have to admit that it feels a little bit sloppy even in the locked position regardless of the tension setting. The locking block fit around the trigger guard and in the holster is difficult to get solid due to the round trigger guard of the CZs. If I'd buy a holster today I would go for the Suomi Ase holster. Many of my team mates have it and it is a good holster.
  10. Ludde

    International CZ

    Hi, Go for an original CZ 75 SP-01 Shadow (any variant on homepage). http://www.czub.cz/en/catalog/79-pistols-cz/PCOM/CZ_75_SP-01_SHADOW.aspx Or the one previously linked. http://czcustom.com/...tom2014blk.aspx If you like to you can easily swap some springs yourself on a factory CZ.
  11. Hi, this is a link to my post I made after I did some beveling of the loading port. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=181108&p=1998996
  12. It's a really big difference. Although the trigger pull weight has not been changed it feels lighter and is quite a bit shorter.
  13. Polarshine 35 polishing compound by Mirka. Visit mirka.com for more info. Grit size 35 is actually the coarse alternative but it's really fine if you ask me. It's easy to work with, I don't pre work the surfaces on Benelli when polishing with Polarshine.
  14. Here are a couple of pictures showing the surfaces of my Benelli Supernova parts after going over it with my Dremel and ultra fine polishing compound. The sharp point of the lower part of the extractor groove on the barrel was slightly dulled (rounded of) with a small needle file and then polished. This removed the problem (FTF) of shells catching on the sharp edge while feeding. At the same time I took the opportunity and polished the shell carrier/lifter and shell stop latches. Also the surfaces where the action bars ride and the action bars themselves where polished. The pump action and loading is much smoother and slicker than originally now.
  15. Here are a couple of pictures and a link to my video showing the trigger travel after I have installed a trigger stop & a pre-travel adjustment screws on my Benelli Supernova. The pre-travel adjustment screw is installed as shown in the attached pictures. I found this as the most suitable option after I had "simulated" the trigger movement a bit. I removed a little bit of material in the opening in front of the trigger to allow for proper movement of the trigger. I decided to install the trigger stop screw in the trigger guard behind the trigger. This could also have been installed on the trigger. I have not done any modifications to the sear, disconnector and hammer. Therefore there is still the original trigger creep before it breaks. Video:
  16. Hi, Do you modify the shape of the trigger guard? My problem are my relatively short fingers and small hands.
  17. Thanks for all the positive comments. I did it myself by using 40 grit then 240 grit sandpaper wrapped around a flat file, then I gently heat up the area I've worked on with a small torch lighter, after that I go over all the surfaces with a soft 1000 grit sandpaper. The heat from the torch brings back the shiny surface in the polymer. Do not heat it up too much then you will get a burnt finish (that's ok if you are into that kind of stuff).
  18. You who have modified the Supernova action bars enabling a complete cocking and shell releasing sequence in a shorter stroke than original. Is it still possible to use 3 1/2 inch (89mm) long shells without running into trouble? Thanks
  19. Hi All, Just wanted to share with you how it can look like after beveling the loading port of a Supernova. I've also attached a pic of the original one.
  20. Thank you for the reply. I got the safety out. The trick was to use a small enough punch that still could take some sideways pressure. I found it easiest to push the safety from the left side through to the right side of the receiver. The problem now is that the safety is made of a really hard material. My regular drill bits and drill press did not like it. I'm thinking of taking the safety to a local lathe guy since he might have some better stuff.
  21. Hi All, Can someone give some hints on how to remove the safety on the Benelli Supernova from the trigger housing. I am going to make an enlarged safety and need to drill and tap the original one. I cannot seem to get the plunger pressed down far enough in order to remove the safety "button". I have been successful in removing all parts from the trigger housing except the safety. Regards, Ludde
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