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Found 22 results

  1. Hello, Recently, I sent a brand new Tanfo Stock II over to Patriot Defense for their patented tuneup and barrel reaming. They also installed the extended firing pin, titan hammer, bolo, one piece sear, and Xtreme trigger. Out of the box the trigger was PHENOMENAL, both in DA and SA. Unfortunately, the first range trip was plagued with failure to feeds, and a weird "ca chunk" whenever the slide cycled. After perusing the forums here, it seemed I needed to chamfer off the breechface edge and polish the breechface. I got in contact with PD and they confirmed it was probably the breechface edge issue and gave the go ahead to chamfer the edge while also telling me Tanfo's need a 1000 rounds to break in. They even stated there were no issues when it was test fired at their facility? I chamfered off the edge and breechface little by little like everyone suggested until the failure to feed issue stopped, but the "ca chunk" continued. Thinking this issue stemmed from the wolff 8lb standard recoil spring, I tossed in a wollf 10lb standard spring to no avail and a factory 14lb spring which yielded the same result. After noticing weak ejection with softer ammo and sometimes rounds getting stuck with the slide out of battery, I bought a new extractor with the (9) stamp and an XP extractor spring to cross this off the list (the original had a bunch of machining marks and no (9) stamp). Next range trip, the "ca chunk" continues and within 100 rounds two were somehow stuck in the chamber while the slide was 1/8"- 1/4" out of battery. I had to take the gun apart to get the rounds out since the slide was stuck. This makes me think there is something wrong with the barrel after it was reamed, maybe. The mags I am using are brand new K9s. The issue happens with all mags (12) and all ammo. Everyone that has seen it in slow mo and shot it agrees it's not cycling right. Any thoughts??
  2. Hi all. I would appreciate some insight into my most current problem with my Tanfoglio Stock II. I've been working on this thing for about a month now trying to get it to work reliably in double and single action. And every time I think I have it sorted out a new problem emerges. I'll spare you EVERY detail, but some relevant background follows. After my first round of polishing the single action would not reset. I am using the stock disconnector. I filed down the material on the disconnector on it until it did (if it was a bolo it would be angle one I guess I'd call it). Got that fixed. A few hundred rounds in after that a new problem emerged where a slow trigger press in single action would drop the hammer back into a double action pull. This one took a lot of research to sort out how to fix it, but I eventually found a forum where CZ and Tanfos that were running into this issue could fix it by filing the wing of the disconnector into a 45 degree angle rather than a 90 degree angle. It worked. And has been working fine for about 500 rounds at least... ... Until, that is, I got back from the range the other day, broke down the pistol only to do a basic cleaning. Bore snake out the barrel, gun scrubber, towel off the residued areas, lube, oil, etc - nothing major. Put it back together. And now the hammer is dropping early in double action. Which is the possible problem that can emerge from filing that disconnector wing at the 45 degree angle that I mentioned I had to do earlier. FYI - I had the 18lb trigger plunger spring in there (paired with the 14lb as well as the 13lb PD hammer spring). I know that can cause the issue where the hammer drops early, as well. I switched back to the stock plunger spring to test and it's the same problem. Hammer drops early - like it never gets past the half cock mark. Looking at the disconnector (I'll post some pictures), the 45 degree angle I remember filing into it was not as severe as it looks to be now. There are also wear marks on the underside of the disconnector which I did not put in there. Good shot of the 45 degree angle Good shot of the wear *Couldn't post the actual images into the post - not sure why - but linked to a flickr account where I uploaded them* It seems to have worn very quickly and severely after those last 500 live rounds or so - not to mention I dry fire A LOT. Excessively even. And I guess that is where I struggle with what I should do now. Pretty confident I need a new disconnector. My question is ... WHY is this happening where I will fix something, function test it, and it will be 100% working and then a few hundred live rounds (probably a few thousand dry clicks to every hundred rounds) and a new problem emerges and in fixing that problem another problem can emerge as a result of the fix? Is excessive dry fire the cause of the wear? Is it that the stock disconnector is made of a material that once it is modified, its integrity is weakened and can wear faster? Basically... how can it be that I get everything working 100% and then something as insignificant as breaking the gun down to clean it can then just throw everything out of whack again? I'm considering getting a bolo instead of another stock disconnector. Would that be less prone to wear? Less finicky once it is fitted? Open to any and all suggestions. Thank you.
  3. Who’s excited? In the wake of the shadow 2 OR tanfoglio have realsed a stock II OR to go head to head in the optic divisions. Looks like it will use plates like the shad2 OR.
  4. It seems that the Tanfo Stock II Elite's in 9mm are out of stock everywhere in the US. I've heard from one major gunsmith that EAA hasn't imported any since May of this year. Does anyone know what's going on? Did Tanfoglio pause production of this model? Anyone have any insight into if/when they might be available again??
  5. Is EAA Corp the only way to purchase the Stock II conversion kit to be able to shoot 9mm from my factory 40 S&W? Its crazy that the price for the kit is almost what I paid for my gun 'New'.
  6. After changing to brass grips for my SP01 Shadow Orange I sold my Shadow 2..., SO much calmer (so faster) based on advice of Bosko from luckydelta. Changed gun to Tango Stock II extreme (small frame , after advice of one of the major Tango dealers in The Netherlands switched to brass grips (EGD, Grauffel). Same impact: Bit fatter grip (EGD standard bit small), faster FS recovery, calmer shooting... Like to hear your experience!! Regards, Henk
  7. I am new-ish to the tanfo platform and I am having great success with it. Shot with a Shadow 2 most of this season and I am currently shooting the Tanfo. I was able to put 600 rounds in 3 range visit and I am blown away by the difference in between the two platforms, very happy with the Stock 2. I have purchased a few shock buffers for this pistol, and I tried it with and with out and I could not notice any difference in felt recoil, however, the action becomes stiffer when the buffer is in, like if there was less wiggle room between the barrel and the slide when out of battery and it takes more effort to rack the slide. The gun was used for about 200 rounds with a buffer with no ill effects, however, when operated by hand I can feel it is tighter. Wondering if any of you has any first hand experience with these buffers. I am thinking that they might be a gimmick and might as well keep them out.
  8. Gents; here is a quick guide if you receive your Tanfo with a Gen 2 trigger bar, and you've ordered a bolo/titan/1-piece sear. You'll only need to remove .020", so go slow and measure often. It doesn't take much using a rotary and diamond bit.
  9. I'm having problems with installing the BOLO. I got some new parts to put in my stock 2: xtreme trigger, 1pc sear, titan hammer and the BOLO. I've got everything to fit and function except the BOLO. I've tried using the stock interrupter with all the new parts and it would engage the trigger bar and make the DA pull (that's correct yes?). However with the BOLO installed it glides right over the trigger bar making a "dead" pull. I've got the SA pull to function which feels awesome without the creep in the trigger. Now did I do something wrong or am I missing some crucial piece of info? I've read on the PD website to remove material from the 2nd angle which would be that 90 degree angle, yes? I took a couple swipes at it but after just looking at how it all fit when it was installed it seems there's no contact at all between the BOLO and trigger bar. Any help is much appreciated.
  10. We just bought a brand new Stock II and the slide does not fit flush with the back of the rail, it hangs over the back a bit. We have a lot of cheaper guns that fit perfectly there and are a bit disappointed that the money these things cost that the fit is so off. 2nd is the markings on the rear right side of the slide just below and behind the rear sight. I have searched the web all morning trying to find an explanation or closer photo of the same markings on other guns and can't find anything. A few that I can see it looks like something recognizable. On ours it is like somebody took a tiny punch and obliterated whatever it was supposed to be. I feel almost like it is a way of denoting a "second". Maybe that is a quality mark and the seconds (like this one with the slide that does not appear to fit right) get the mark defaced. The Stock II on the slide is also in a bold all caps engraving, I assume it is a newer model style? It has FT-IT 2016 above the right grip. Anyone know what the deal is here? What the mark is and if the poor fit on the slide is "normal" for a gun of this caliber?
  11. Hoping for help with ongoing failure to feed problem with tanfo 9mm stock II
  12. I have a Stock II that I would like to change the black slide stop out with a silver one and the safety from a Tanfoglio Limited. Is this legal?
  13. So I have been looking moving into a Stock II from the world of Glocks. I have read a bunch of posts on here about people buying two of them. One serving as a back-up for matches, it is also used as the dry fire gun. Do the Stock II's go down that frequently that I should worry about buying two of them? I am not a gunsmith and some of the disassembly and reassembly video's have scared the crap out of me. Can some of you that have covered to the dark side please advise? Thanks, Matt
  14. So, I know this has been discussed in other threads, but I am having trouble getting a consensus from everyone of which is the best option. I currently have the Henning 4th gen firing pin with the titan hammer with 1 piece sear and extended FPB (0.508" I think) in my Stock II (large frame). At a match last night I was having a bunch of light strikes, until I removed the FPB all together, then the gun ran 100%. The FP was also not reliably blocked by the FPB with the hammer cocked as it should. The light strikes would suggest to me that the FPB is still too short and that I may have to remove a bit of material from the curved surface on the inside of the cut out. (opposite of the tab that actually blocks the FP) Or I may just have to polish it better. My understanding is that the different profile without the flutes of the Henning Gen 3, as well as the extended EG Xtreme FP will both work, but which seems to work better for people? More reliable? Allowing the use of lighter springs and lower trigger pulls? I also love that the Henning firing pins are advertised as being made lighter and lighter, while the EG Xtreme, is advertised as being heavier than the OE part, lol. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
  15. Many people lately have been arguing over the apparent price of Stock 2's. So I figured, hey I can make a post to show how much money down to the penny (minus tax I will be nice) that I have invested into my Stock 2. (I will consider just my 9mm because the .40 was slightly cheaper. Lets start at the top with the gun. I was able to get a pretty decent deal on my Stock 2 at $923.35. While I understand that many of you fell into the prey that is people buying them at this price and selling them stock for 1800, I will assume for this post that this is the price. Next lets look at the magazines. If you buy them from EAA directly (that's what I would do) single price of one item is $40. If however you buy them in a set they are $25 a piece. Which to me is a pretty fair price. I bought 6 of these, because I think thats a fair number for a long course production stage, and to have 1 backup. Having shot with basepads and no basepads I honestly don't think it made a bit of difference to me so thats my opinion. http://eaacorp.com/gun_accessories/index.php/one-ea9m2005-18rd-101935.html I am assuming most people don't have a belt or holster set up for production. If you do, disregard this portion. If not follow this. I bought the Ben Stoeger BOSS holster and Ghost Mag pouch setup. This was $269.95. http://www.benstoegerproshop.com/BSPS-BOSS-DOH-Holster-Ghost-Pouches-DAA-Belt-p/boss-kit.htm Now we can get down to actual gun upgrades. I bought almost all of my things from Last Round Armament. I feel like they are the best company to do business with, have fair prices, and they ship quickly. · Backup Extractor 9mm (not necessary but nice to have a backup on hand) $25 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/eaa-11-1-extractor-9mm/ · Interuptor for 1 Piece Sear $8 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/eaa-4-8-interruptor/ · 1 Piece Sear $37 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/eaa-9-1-1-piece-sear/ · Extended Firing Pin Block (to make the gun Production legal) $14.95 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/egd-extreme-safety-firing-pin-block-extended/ · Eric Grauffel Firing Pin Spring Light x2 (I got 2 so I had a backup) $7.99x2 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/egd-xtreme-firing-pin-spring-light/ · Eric Grauffel Hammer Spring Light x2 (again ordered 2 so I had a backup) $10.95x2 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/egd-xtreme-hammer-spring-light/ · Eric Grauffel Red Grips (Must be red thats the only color for these guns) $118.95 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/egd-xtreme-grips/ · Eric Grauffel Extreme Titan Hammer $114.99 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/egd-xtreme-titan-hammer/ · 9 pound Recoil Spring x2 $9.95x2 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/wolff-recoil-spring-eaatanfoglio-stock-ii/ · Trigger Spring x2 (because you will lose one) $4.00x2 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/eaatanfoglio-witness-trigger-spring/ · Sear Spring x2 (same as above) $4.00x2 http://www.lastroundarmament.com/product/eaa-9-3-sear-spring/ · Extra Power Extractor Spring $7.95 http://henningshop.com/products/tanfoglio-extractor-spring-by-wolff-gunsprings-w32010 · Henning XL Gen 3 firing Pin (To me its very important that this is a Gen 3. I haven't had good luck with the Gen 4) $24.95 http://www.benstoegerproshop.com/Henning-Firing-Pin-for-EAA-Tanfogolio-Witness-p/henning-lf-fp.htm Grand total to shoot a Stock 2 in Production $1768.87. Wyatt
  16. Hey, So I had bought a Stock III a few months ago, and recently was able to get my hands on a Stock II. I have since sold the stock III because I could only afford one gun at the moment. I am having some minor regrets though. If you look at the pictures I have posted, The checkering on the Stock III (and the old Stock II I had years ago) are really sharp and bite into your hands great. It was one of my favorite features of Tanfoglio guns. Well the checkering on my Stock II is REALLY SHALLOW It nearly feels like the checkering on a Tactical sport, that is often laughed about. I guess my question is this. Would it be worth going back to EAA and seeing if there is anything they could do about improving the checkering to what 99% of their other guns have? Or, would I be allowed to sharpen it myself, or have a local gunsmith do it, and still have the gun be production legal? Blued Stock III (sharp checkering) vs Chromed Stock II (shallow non-grippy checkering):
  17. I just got a hold of a Stock II and I am looking to see what people are doing to help the trigger on these guys, The SA pull doesn't seem too bad, but the double action pull needs lots of love. What kinds of upgrades/modifications do I need to look into?
  18. Greetings all, I will be picking up my new (first Tanfoglio) Stock II 10mm from my FFL tonight, and I have a few questions. I've read through most of the posts on the sprinco and Henning recoil options, but most of them seem to be a few years old. I was wondering if anyone had recent feedback about which one they prefer - Sprinco recoil reduction or Henning cone guide rod. I will be shooting a mix of handloads and factory in varying power levels. How have these systems held up over time? Will the Henning system allow the greatest flexibility with varying loads? Also, what is involved in swapping to .40? Do I need the entire top end, or just barrel and magazine? Thank you all for your help, and I look forward to my first Tanfo! J
  19. So I finally landed a Stock II in 9mm and I'm happy. Problem is, if it goes down in a match I don't have a backup. So the question for those of you who have run Tanfos for a while is: what spare parts should I have in my bag?
  20. ok guys got a question I'm hoping someone can answer. How on earth do you keep the checking clean on the front and backstrap of your hard chrome, competition framed tanfoglio? I had this problem with my stock II. it was in a safe for a while (put away after being shot) and came out with bronzey/blackey looking rust stuff in parts of the checkering and little spots of pitting up under the beavertail. My new eric custom also has a small amount in the checkering and just below the backstrap checkering is the pitting marks again. Looking at others tanfoglios and they all have it except one guy. All those guys say it can't be cleaned. The one guy who's is clean tells me he chucks it in a ultrasonic cleaner every 6 months after stripping to a bare frame. I'd like to avoid that route. Someone suggested using a tooth brush and degreaser... didn't really work. I also tried brake cleaner and toothbrush.. didn't really work. I don't want to scratch off the chrome but it seems like something more drastic may be the only option. Another guy suggested regular white toothpaste and toothbrush (haven't tried that yet). So who has had this crap appear on your tanfoglio and then successfully fought it back? how did you do it?
  21. Hey Everyone, So here is the question that has been bugging me for a while. Why is it against the USPSA Production rules to recreate a gun from the production gun list (lets abbreviate with PGL). I can't exactly find the wording in the current rule book but I know I have heard it many times here and elsewhere that this is not "legal". My examples: Stock II - My unicorn production gun would be one of the Australian long barreled EAA Stock II's (on the PGL) with all the goodies from the Xtreme Stock II (also on the PGL). So why couldn't you simply get a limited in 9mm remove the magwell and swap out the single action parts with the double action parts. The limited is identical to the long barreled Stock II, except with single action only trigger, markings on the slide and 4 holes in the frame for the option to mount an optic, no functional difference. I would also be able to shoot this gun in limited or open with a separate barrel, and it is much easier to get your hands on this way than finding one of the Australian version Stock II's. Glock 34/35 - If you all ready have a G35 and you are able to get an upper half from a G34 for use with production, why should that be outlawed? This situation goes for any platform that has interchangeable lowers and uppers. My logic: If you can lesson the number of complete guns the shooter has to have to compete in different divisions whats so wrong with that? Also, as long as nothing done is giving the shooter an unfair advantage what is the problem? What exact working in the rules prohibits the above examples?
  22. HawkTech Arms has 4 (!!) Stock II's coming in. 3 x .40 Cal 1 x. 9mm He said $1200/ea shipped Contact Information: HawkTech Arms 3131 E. Lanark St., Suite 140 Meridian, ID 83642 Phone: 208-898-5848 Web: www.hawktecharms.com Email: dan@hawktecharms.com
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