ltdmstr

Keep in mind the toolhead height on the 1100 is different than on 1050, so the height shown in that photo is probably going to be off. All you need to do is set the height so the slide is all the way back when the toolhead is at the top, and low enough so it's all the way in and not binding when the handle is all the way down. I set the clamp loose enough to adjust, then run a couple cycles and some trial and error to get it right. Usually takes about 30 seconds.

N320 has been a very popular powder for .40 major for 20+ years and is still the best, or one one of the best, choices. If you're having accuracy issues, I doubt it's the powder. For 165g bullets, I've had good results using 5.4g N320 with SNS coated flat points loaded to 1.180.

The silver part on the primer tube needs to be adjusted. The round cam that's attached to it is what moves the lever that moves the slide with the pimer. See photos below. Top photos is handle all the way up, center photo is handle all the way down, and bottom photo is handle near center of throw.

Um, no. As stated above, it wasn't because of the polymer grip. It was because they were good quality and they worked. Early para stuff was ok, but they had lots of quality issues, mainly with barrels and links breaking. There magazines were also not as good and I believe were lower capacity than STI. Caspian hi-cap frames were even worse quality than Para. I bought one years back and the quality was so bad, I probably could have cast something nicer in my back yard. Sent it back and never bought another one. Plus their magazines were always a problem. Tanfoglio is not a 1911 type design and never a serious competitor in the 1911/2011 market.

I'd get a Springfield in 10mm then swap out the barrel for .40. Purchased a SA Operator recently and was very surprised by the factory slide/frame fit and overall quality. 9 minor is also great in a 1911/2011. I have both and they're probably the most enjoyable to shoot of all the handguns I own.

Did not know that. Are they actual Sig parts, or aftermarket?

Anyone can do 30 lpi checkering on the slide. But it's not a good idea to copy that exact design, with the angle, ball cut borders, etc. If you want it exactly like what's in the photo, you should have Don/Kodiak do it.

Some like the hiperfire. Every one of their triggers I've tried felt like crap to me. So maybe it's just an acquired taste. I use CMC single stage in my GMR-15. It's 3.5 lb, so definitely not the lightest if that's what you're after. But it feels great and it's clean, crisp and 100% reliable.

Brass, bullets and powder are still available at reasonable prices. The problem is primers. Everyone is out. And from what I'm hearing, that's going to be the case for quite a while. Prob 12-18 months, or more.

Well, then something has to be loose, broken or worn. If it's the rails or something in the FCU, you can't do anything about it bc that's the serial numbered part. So it can't be replaced, unless they're going to give you a new one under warranty, which I doubt. Could also be something in the barrel block. Other than that, I dunno.

If you've eliminated the shooter, dot/sights and ammo as the source of your problem, that leaves two possibilities. Either the barrel crown or something to do with the lockup.

Hard to say without seeing it in person, but my guess is it's a combination extractor and feed ramp/magazine/mag catch issues. First, I would stick with the 14 lb spring for 185 pf, at least until you get it running. Second, I would check the extractor hook and tension to see if those are correct (even if new, still needs to be tuned). Third, I would check the barrel ramp profile, which also factors in your magazine tuning and mag catch. On the third point, I use the Dawson mag catch with higher shelf for all my 9s and 40s and never have any problems. Also, before you start altering anything like ramp profile, try running some other factory ammo with similar pf and see if that works. Gold dots cause problems with lots of guns.

Welcome to the club.

Actually, in looking at the upside down photos again, the primer strikes are near the top of the primer, which means the barrel is low. And it looks real low. So, I'd check the lockup and also see what link is in there. Hood contact on the slide is also uneven. Seems like you have a number of issues.

That kidney shaped indent sure looks like impact damage. You can see where it's actually peened over the edge of the firing pin hole. It's highly unlikely your ammo did that. Maybe there was some foreign object in there. Offset primer strikes are common on 1911/2011 and usually due to higher lock-up on the barrel. As long as it's near the center, that's not a problem. First thing II would do is check the hardness of the slide on the disconnector rail close to the breach face. Assuming it's good, like 37-41 RC, I would polish the breach face and use a long drill bit to chamfer the firing pin hole. Then put some rounds through it and see what it looks like. If you really want to fix that kidney shaped indent, you can weld it and remachine the breach face. But I'd say it's not worth the time and effort.

Highly doubt you'll find one in stock anywhere as it's not a common item. So you'll have to special order and wait. Maybe ask if they can expedite the order for a reasonable upcharge.

You can get stainless tubing from McMaster-Carr.

PAL filler is hands down the best option if you can find one.

I couldn't find a factory combination that matched my needs, so I made my own on a JP upper/lower. It's flat out awesome and a blast to shoot. As zzt stated, ARs are assembled, not built like a 1911/2011. So pretty much anyone can do it. The only special tools you need are a torque wrench and chamber gages. And if you don't have those, you can borrow or rent them.

Sounds like work arounds for a poorly done trigger. Try a 18 or 19 lb spring and you won't have any problems. If you're concerned about a light trigger pull weight, a good gunsmith can get you a sub-2 lb trigger with 18 or 19 lb spring. It will be 100% reliable and will feel a lot better than with a lighter mainspring.

Sounds like a fantastic project. I spent 20+ years writing and editing legal treatises, primarily on federal government contracting. So, it's probably no surprise that my top recommendation is to find a good editor. My second recommendation is that you make the book comprehensive in coverage. By that, I mean when you address a topic, do so in a thorough manner, so the reader fully understands not only the how, but the why, of what you're covering. I'd also devote some time to shop safety (a real consideration since most gunsmiths work alone) as well as tool selection, machining practices, fixtures, etc.

A heavier mainspring will give you a crisper trigger, and personally, I prefer a 19 lb spring with a radius on the fps (vs. 17 lb spring and square fps). I know a lot of people like 17 lb mainsprings because it helps get the pull weight down. But I find it gives a soft, spongy trigger that feels pretty crappy for a 1911. I also don't like the impulse from a flat fps. So, for me, the two combined make for a pretty awful combination. Regarding the mainspring, a good smith can get you a sub 2 lb trigger with a heavier spring and it will feel a lot better than the same pull weight with a lighter spring.

A lot of EB stuff has changed over the years, and not for the better. EGW make one specific for the .220 cut on Springfield. It's much better quality than the others on the market and shouldn't require any fitting on the radius. You'll have to fit the arm to clear the trigger bar as you would with any other.

Pretty sure Dawson sells them.