ltdmstr

Sorry if that was a bit harsh, but I just don't agree with setting up extractors this way. Regarding your photo above, by the time you get the case up against the breach face, the extractor is going to be on the bevel rather than the flat and I don't see how you can correct that. Maybe someone who sets them up this way can offer a solution.

Normal? No. Going to slam the case into the extractor hook? Yes. And probably going to break it off eventually. Do as you wish, but your statement that there needs to be a gap between the case rim and the extractor body simply isn't correct. That's not how the part was designed to work and it's not the correct way to do it. Doesn't matter what caliber it is. What's the point of beveling the extractor notch for smooth feeding then having the hook dig into the soft brass case? That's certainly not going to help. I set up extractors the same way regardless of caliber, with the extractor notch contacting the case rim and no contact on the hook. I've been doing it that way for 20+ years, and have 9s and 40s that feed so smooth you don't even feel the round going into the chamber. And they're all 100% reliable. I'm not a big name gunsmith, or a internet celebrity, so that probably doesn't count for much. But I did learn the trade from John Nowlin, who was among the best, and I'm pretty sure he knew what he was doing.

Not sure who wolf 83 is, but I can tell you that's not the correct way to fit an extractor. The flat on the extractor should be contacting the case rim and the hook shouldn't be touching anything. If you do it the correct way, the case will be on the breach face and the extractor can be tensioned by feel.

You can find better deals on armslist and other places. Just saw 15k Federal small pistol for $800. That's $53/k.

Sent one in recently and they received it on 11/13. Talked to them today and was told it's scheduled to ship mid-February. So that's about 12 weeks for a G17/5, which fits the 3-4 month delivery time others have experienced.

Your call, but personally, I'd pass on the four leaf spring and the cammer hammer. You'll be better off with quality parts and proper tools and doing the job the right way.

Ok, thanks for the info. Think I'll look into it after the holidays.

What’s the cost to upgrade from life to benefactor? And do u keep ur old number or get a new one?

Doesn’t do that for me. Maybe bc I’m already a life member.

Just went on the USPSA web site and can't find any info on Life or Benefactor membership. Tried the menus as well as the search function and nada. Can't believe after all this time the site still sucks so bad.

Seriously? Probably 90% of what he put on there isn't doing anything but pooling in non-contact areas and trapping dust, dirt, powder residue, etc.

Some of us have been through this before and planned accordingly. Also, I've had no problems getting case quantities of N320 and 20k+ bullet orders recently. Only problem is primers.

For lights, the Streamlight TLR-1 HL is a great deal for about $150. Excellent build quality and very bright, but not too bright for indoor use. I'd put it up against a Surefire any day and it's about half the price.

If you're not binding on the hood, and don't have contact at the lugs, I'd check the slide bore where the barrel contacts the bottom. If the barrel is springing, that's probably where you need to remove material.

That's definitely the exception rather than the rule. At least when it comes to custom guns from reputable builders. Most of them run just fine. Doesn't mean a guy with a Glock or RIA won't beat him, but that doesn't happen very often.

I dunno. I have a JP upper/lower/bolt/short stroke SPS with a 10.5 Faxon barrel and SLR linear comp and it's pretty much like a 22 with 130 pf loads. I'd guess you're seeing/feeling the recoil more because it's an ultralite. Not much you can do about that.

So, basically, a bastard stepchild to your polished gold Desert Eagle? I'll be sure to wear my grille when I'm shooting it, along with my Adidas track suit.

Definitely not. It's a factory new gun. And a pretty desirable one.

1. Here's a link to a video on the Federal ammo plant that shows some of the primer manufacturing process (starting at 3:48). Pretty much as described above. Kinda cool to see. 2. Powder Valley posted a statement on the primer shortage a while ago. Pretty much confirmed much of what's been said here and in other threads. Here's a link to that. 3. I had a pretty significant stock of Magtech primers that were made in Brazil and they were excellent quality and 100% reliable. But I haven't seen any in probably a couple years. I wonder who imported them and why they stopped. So, there definitely are good foreign sources if someone would import the stuff.

No arch on the backstrap leaves a big gap in the palm of my hand. Major fail!!!

Ok, thanks for the info.

So the plumb brown finish on plain steel, or start with blued steel and then the plumb brown?

Yep. 4.0g Bullseye + 200g SWC = half inch groups at 25 yards all day long.

So, I found a gun review from a while ago, and here's what it says about the finish. Btw, it's a USFA Gunslinger in .38 Special. Very nice piece. The exterior finish is a dull grayish brown, with some mottling, but is not pitted at all. It looks much like the finish seen on an old original Hawken rifle, or the browned appearance that is sometimes seen on an old lever action barrel. It is not a worn appearance, as is seen on old sixguns that spent a lot of time in a holster, nor does it look like a revolver that has seen years of neglect. It just looks, again for lack of a better word, old. Gary tells me that their aging process is not a quickly applied chemical finish, but that they start with a finished gun, and carefully brown the exterior in several thin layers, which results in an even finish, with absolutely no pitting.

Instead of "Looks for Range" maybe his bi-line should be "Looks for Golf Course." Anyway, I'm familiar with rust bluing and am pretty sure that's not it. It doesn't appear to be any type of rust and it doesn't lift of rub off. Also doesn't appear to be any type of spray on finish. So I'm kinda stumped.