ltdmstr

I ordered one from C&H. It's their new v4 MIL/LEO MOS adapter plate. Here's a video review by Hilton Yam at 10-8.

Grip safety doesn't do anything to prevent inertia firing if it's dropped. Only way to do that is to block movement of the firing pin, like a Series 80 arrangement. Extra long firing pins are a bad idea for exactly that reason. They reduce the margin for error, as they are that much closer to the primer.

I like the new design CH plate with replaceable t inserts and 4 posts for the optic. I have one on order and am also waiting on the pistol from Glock. Also have the Heinie sights on the way. Still need to round up the optic and other parts. Will post an update when I get it together.

Match here yesterday was 81 shooters with 6 stages and typical round count. Most people I know have been through this before and are set for at least a year at current ammo consumption. And many of those for much longer.

Lots of 1911/2011s out there with extended firing pins. Could happen with one of those as well if dropped the right way. Very sorry to hear this for all parties involved.

And a custom bolt gun with decent glass is up near 10k.

I built a double stack 9mm on a Phoenix Trinity frame a couple years ago to use for 3 gun. But I just simply don't have the time. I've used it to shoot limited minor on occasion, but as you'd expect, scores are better shooting 40. Having said that, it's probably the nicest shooting 1911/2011 I own. And it does see quite a bit of use for practice and steel. I have zero regrets on the build, and zero intention of ever selling it.

I would make sure there's a return policy in case you get it and it's not as advertised. Many of these guns are used by competition shooters and see high round counts. They get worn and parts break just like anything else. The main thing is to do a thorough inspection, and if you aren't real knowledgable about these guns, take it to someone who is. In addition to checking fit and function, I would definitely look for any non-factory parts and/or modifications. Those can be questionable for a number of reasons, and could reduce the value of the gun, sometimes significantly. After inspection, if there are any issues, either negotiate a discount, or send it back for a refund. Resale value is also a factor when considering the caliber, because for a competition style gun, there's a much smaller market for 9 vs. 40.

If you intend to shoot limited, skip the 9 and get a .40 so you can make major power factor. Shooting limited minor is fun, but not the way to go if you want to be competitive.

It'll help in terms of accuracy, but as far as you're ability to see the sights clearly, it's really not going to make any difference. Best thing to do is get custom shooting glasses with the lens for the dominant eye focused on the sights, and other for distance. Takes a bit to get used to, but it works.

That's good to know. When I get a chance, I'll try it indoors and out with the same ammo and see if there's a noticeable difference.

I think we were paying $20-$24/k for bulk purchases. Smaller quantities and retail was prob $28+.

Jeez, typical troll comment. Surely you can do better.

Wow! Arguing about the rules with a couple of people who probably know more about them and how they're applied than you ever will. And adding insults just because they've attempted to correct your mistaken interpretation. That's pretty bold. I'm sure if you put your words into action, you can test it for real life and see how it goes. Good luck with that.

Haven't had a chance to look at an SRO yet. Had a couple of RMRs on rifles and they were pretty nice. So, I'm still undecided on what optic to use, but also still leaning toward the RMR. Think I'm set on the MOS. Don't really see any downside. My main concern was durability and reliability of the setup, and that seems to be a non-issue if the parts are put together correctly.

Yeah, I think the direct mount is better in some ways, but it sounds like the MOS setup is (or can be) reliable. So that, combined with the flexibility to change optics or run without one, probably make it the better choice.

I don't have a Gen 3. Getting a Gen 5, just debating whether to get the MOS version or standard version and mill the slide for direct mount. I get what you're saying about shooting different classes, but there's zero chance I'll be using this as a competition gun. I shoot Limited with an SV, PCC with JP and occasional single stack. If I had any more time for shooting, I'd be doing PRC. On the dot, I've had good luck with Aimpoint and Trijicon. Not so good with others. The Aimpoint Acro is probably nice, but I just don't like the size and design of it. So I'm leaning toward the RMR, although I'd consider others. I'm more concerned with performance, reliability and durability than cost. Sounds good on the C&H plate. Right now, I'm leaning towards that with the RMR and Heinie Ledge sights. But I'm still going to look and see what else it out there.

Good points. Going to print that out so I remember. Any experience with the C&H mount? Seems like those are very popular and have a good reputation for quality, fit, etc.

I'm not a big Glock fan, but I have a 9mm AR that runs Glock mags and figure it makes sense to get a pistol that shares the same mags and ammo. So, I'm looking at a G17 Gen 5 with an RMR. Any consensus on whether it's better to get the MOS cut and mount the optic with a plate (prob C&H) vs a standard slide that's milled for direct mount RMR? Obviously the MOS allows for different optics if I decide to change and probably better resale value if/when I dump it. Just wondering if I'm missing something.

If it's real and someone actually went through with the deal, that's pretty crazy. I guess for the buyer, ignorance is bliss.

Is nitrocarburizing the same as salt bath nitriding? Or are they different processes?

So, I bought a Labradar because it's supposed to be super accurate and much simpler than the old style chronos with lights, cords, etc. But I do pretty much all my handgun training and chrono work indoors. So I was pretty bummed when I read in the instructions that you need a min of 25 yards to get accurate readings. Does anyone know if this is correct? The max I have at my indoor range is about 15 yards, maybe a little more.

So far I've had no problem getting powder and bullets. And that's pretty decent quantities at normal prices. Primers are a different story.

There's probably 200 threads on the subject. So, sorry for being one of those people, but I gotta say it. Try the search function.

Working on one now. Guess I'm late to the party.