ltdmstr

I'm with you there. Better off deaf than dead. Just saying it's a good idea to plan ahead and try to minimize the damage if it comes to that. A 9mm in a small room isn't great, but it's a hell of a lot better than 556 or 300, suppressed or not.

I agree that chances of dealing with an armed home invasion are close to zero. But strongly disagree that dealing with permanent hearing loss isn't a significant consideration. If you're going to go through the trouble of having a weapon in case you need it, you should consider all the consequences of actually having to use it. That includes physical, mental, legal, etc.

Nowlin barrels are excellent quality. I've been using them since the late 80s when I learned how to work on 1911s with John Nowlin Sr. out of his shop in Claremore OK. I remember he had a son and a daughter who competed for a while. Also a guy named Jason who worked for them. Not sure who's running the business now.

A Glock trigger is never going to feel like a properly done 1911 trigger in terms of travel, pull weight, break or reset. It's just the difference in the two designs. You can take a "good" example of a Glock trigger and a crappy 1911 trigger, and say the Glock is better. But that's not a fair comparison.

Good info. I did some experiments with Trail Boss and loads were so quiet, it was crazy. But they wouldn't cycle the gun. Seems 1680 is the way to go.

I have a McMillan stock on a XM3 clone and it's ok. Nothing great. I had a Manners for a while, and liked it. But for the price point, the fit and finish wasn't what I expected. I ended up purchasing a Foundation Genesis 2 and am very happy with it. Only downside is I had to get a new Spuhr mount because the 4006 I had on the AX was too high. Now I just need to find more time to get to the range.

Never purchased a firearm there due to high prices. But I've purchased other stuff from them and the people working there were ok to deal with. They used to do a lot of business with Chicago cops. Not sure what they're up to these days.

Well to start, there's not a whole lot of 223/556 subsonic ammo out there. Also size, weight and recoil is less with 9mm. And all those factors are multiplied if you add a can since the 9mm package is going to be smaller, lighter and quieter. And for the cherry on top, you can add the fact that your handgun is probably also going to be 9mm.

I can tell you from experience that firing a 223/556 sbr in a small room is most unpleasant. And without hearing protection, chances are pretty good you're going to suffer some permanent damage. With the right setup, a 9mm sbr should be ideal for this application. Or if you like .45 ACP, there's LWRC SMG-45 (assuming you can find one, and don't mind the cost).

Yes. JP GMR-15 w/short stroke SCS.

I use a Cherry Corners barrel aligment block to square the barrel lugs to the slide, then install the Nowlin barrel alignment tool to lock it in place.

I was having constant doubles then multi-round bursts with the TT Diamond. I have a TT Competition, which is fixed 3.5 lb, but haven't tried it yet because I'm pretty happy with the CMC. My 1911/2011 guns are all light triggers, but I don't find that necessary for a pcc. Having said that, if/when TT comes out with a pcc trigger, I'll definitely try it out.

TriggerTech are nice, and I have them in all my bolt guns. Tried a TT Diamond in my JP PCC and couldn't get it to run reliably. Currently running a CMC which is 3.5 lb single stage, but works 100% and has a very clean crisp break.

Pretty much all the high power guys use Kowa scopes. Probably a reason why. That's what I have and am very happy with it. If i were to choose something else, I'd go with Nightforce, which is a very nice piece. Most high quality binocs max at 10x, and to go over that and get good quality glass is very expensive. I don't really see anyone using binocs at the shoots.

When blueprinting a R700 it's pretty much standard procedure to use a heavy recoil lug. Not sure how much difference that makes with any of the short action cartridges, but it certainly doesn't hurt. Most custom actions have an integral lug, so this shouldn't be an issue. On the trigger, most/all R700 clones have a slot in the action for the trigger assembly which is held in place with two pins. So you can change triggers in about 2 minutes once the action's removed from the stock. Doesn't get much easier than that.

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the above. Decide what features are important to you, then make a small chart and check off who offers what you want. You can also weight the features if some are more important than others. What I look for is integral recoil lug, integral rail with 20 MOA elevation (I would highly recommend if you're planning on 1k+), one piece bolt, M16-type extractor, and AICS magazines. Although not on your list, for me the best choice is Defiance Deviant. In fact, that's what I just built up with a Foundation stock, Hawkins DBM, Proof cf barrel, Spuhr mount, NF 5-25 ACTAR, and TT Diamond 2-stage. Not sure I like the barrel, but wanted to try one out. Probably switch to Bartlein when it's time for a new one.

There was also a Nowlin 9x23 reamer but I don't recall the specs on that.

It's common for the sear spring to shift on plastic grips because the slot in the grip is wider than the spring. A lot of people wrap a piece of tape around the bottom to prevent this. If tightening the grip and adding tape (if necessary) doesn't solve the problem, then it's probably the sear spring. Those don't normally wear out, but if tension was marginal to start with, it doesn't take much to make a difference. Same with the hammer and sear. If engagement was fine to start with, that shouldn't be an issue, unless you have a LOT of rounds through the gun or they were crap parts to start with (like factory STI).

Any idea why that turned into such a project? I've had this happen multiple times with the PCC and was able to get the broken-off piece out with a dental pick. Still a PIA, but nothing close to what you went through. Really, that broken off piece should have expanded to the chamber wall, and not be a huge deal to get out. Is the chamber on that fluted or something?

Well, that makes sense. However, even if you change the plunger, if the tab is missing from the back side, it's probably going to fall out again at some point. Best bet is to check the part and replace it if it's damaged or defective.

If it's a nitro fin, isn't your thumb supposed to be on it when you're shooting? Even if it's not, there's supposed to be a tab that fits inside the slide to keep it from falling out. If that's not there, then either the part is defective or someone modified it in a way that they shouldn't have.

Downside is the receiver isn't engraved to reflect the fact that it can fire with the safety in that position. May be ok if you're the only one using it, but if someone else does, that could be a problem. And potential liability.

The nitriding is in the steel. The black finish that's gone is just a surface coating.

Dental pick works well for removal. I load 9mm on a 1050 and glance at every round as it enters the sizing stage. If it's stepped, it comes off the press and goes into the scrap bucket. I also check head stamps after I put rounds in ammo boxes.

Yes, the BAD 45 safety has a pin so you have to make a small notch in the receiver for it to work.