modex

Hello- I've been using my 1050 for a while now to reload .223 and it has been working great. Recently, I purchased a conversion kit to 40SW. I'm having a lot of trouble with cases feeding into the shell plate. They seem to get stuck on the rim of the shellplate if they don't go in perfectly straight. Is anyone having a similar issue with 40SW or other pistol rounds?

I purchased a Super 1050 configured for 223 and I've been having a problem with resizing the brass. I believe the length between the shoulder and the head is a few thousands too long. This is due to a couple of reasons. First, when checking the sized brass in a case gauge, I notice that the head sticks out just a little too far. I've compared this with factory rounds to confirm. Also, the reloaded rounds chamber very hard into my AR-15. And I really have to yank pretty hard on the charging handle to cycle it out. Some of them don't even chamber at all. The most logical thing to try would be turning the sizing die into the toolhead a little more. However, I think I have it as low as it can go. It is already making contact with the shellplate and then some (at the end of the stroke). If I cycle the handle slowly and watch the die, I can see it make contact with the plate, and then move down with the plate a couple thousands more. I'm pretty sure if I turn the die in anymore I will risk damage to the press. Do you think the die could be defective? Are Dillon full length sizing dies standard or small base? If regular, do they have a small base version I could use?

okay.. per Dillon's recommendation I will keep the knurled cap snug so that there is no room for the primer magazine to float around... but without cranking it down tight.. I checked the rubber sleeve at the back of the primer slide. I've included a picture. I think this is what everyone was talking about. It looks a little beat up. I've only put a couple thousand rounds thru it. How much do they cost? I just got the press this spring.. hopefully it's covered under the warranty.

The "knurled cap" is the metal cap that screws on top of the primer safety tube, covering the top of the primer magazine. I'm never really sure how tight it should be. I've been doing "finger tight". However, I am noticing some witness marks on the top of the primer slide, and wonder if I should back the knurled cap off just a little so that there is some play with the primer magazine tube. Also, the manual doesn't mention anything about lubing the primer slide or the groove it sits in. I would assume to leave it dry, however I have noticed some witness marks forming on the sides of the primer slide as well. I assume grease would be too much. Last thing I tried was just a tiny film of Rem Oil on the sides of the primer slide. Seems to move okay but I'm not sure if this is a no-no. The main reason why the priming system has come under scrutiny is that every 200 rounds or so, it will not prime a case. Usually the primer ends up falling out from under the press a few cycles later, but by then there is powder everywhere. On a 650 or Hornady LnL AP I'd be fine with a little hiccup now and then. But for a $1600 press, my standards are much higher, and find that to be unacceptable.

I have a carbine buffer.. maybe I'll try a heavy one. Someone else suggested that as well. I believe the BCG has the full auto cuts in it. I got it from PSA.

It was just weird that it started out ejecting at around 4 o'clock and now it's more like 2 or 3. I didn't know if it was an indication of improper bolt cleaning or something. My buddy has a few ARs and they all eject between 4 and 5.

When I first started shooting the rifle, the brass would eject back and to the right as expected. After a few cleanings, I am noticing that the brass ejects straight out to the right.. maybe even slightly forward.. It's hard to tell. It is a PSA upper and BCG. I clean the ejector pin by putting a drop of CLP on it, then pressing up and down on it with a spent case. Is there a better way to clean that? All ideas are welcome.

Okay I knew about the M die but I didn't know Lee made a universal expander too. Looks like they were originally made with cast bullets in mind but they seem to do the trick. The swage backup rod on the 1050 sounds like it could be viable as well. JJ- have you had any issues with that backup rod going into cases that haven't first been flared by the expanding ball? The X-Sizer die looks nice if it meant never trimming again. Tho I tend to pick up a lot of once fired 556 at the range, so I think I will always have some brass to trim.

Here's a video demo of what I'm talking about. I'm probably just over thinking a non-issue. I just want to make sure my baby is okay.

This is the part I'm caught up on.. how do you bell a 223 case? Are you using a separate die (like the Lyman M series)? The trim die is going to remove any belling/expanding since it's a full length sizer, right? Or does the trim die not work the neck like regular sizing dies do?

So the multiple sizings don't put any strain on the brass?

The facts (correct me if I'm wrong): - The trim die is a full length sizer - The trim die does not have a decapping rod - The universal decapper rod does not have an expanding ball - The decapping rod of a standard sizing die does have an expanding ball - The trim die will squeeze the neck, requiring the use of an expanding ball to open it back up again. I've read various posts about 1200B and how it's set up with other dies. The most common is: univ decap -> trim die -> clean -> univ decap to remove media -> prime -> powder -> seat -> crimp. This setup leaves out one minor detail: the expanding ball. The expanding ball opens the neck a little so that you won't shave any lead or copper jacketing off when seating the bullet. It seems like everyone is overlooking that one detail and just seating their rounds in unexpanded cases for 223. Is it just not that important? Some of the following workarounds are suggested: Use a standard FL sizing die with decapping rod and expander ball after trimming. Will this stress the brass twice as much since it's getting pushed thru a FL sizer twice? Use a decapping rod with expander ball in the univ decap die on second pass. I would do this, but I can't seem to find a decap rod w/ expander ball that will fit in a univ decap die.

That's what I initially thought. But when I took the toolhead and shell plate off for cleaning, I noticed that I could feel the over-rotation on both the upstroke and downstroke.

It's brand new. It's been doing it since I took it out of the box. I just recently took it down for cleaning and inspection; still behaves the same way.

Sounds just like mine. I try to look and see where the extra movement comes from but I can't see it anywhere. Also, with the toolhead off, I can feel the extra movement in both directions.