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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About V2plus25

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    Fort Worth, TX
  • Interests
    shooting and flying
  • Real Name
    Josh Coon

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  1. Outstanding price, especially considering you got a barrel ream included. Let us know how she shoots!
  2. This happens to me sometimes as well. Best I can figure a piece of media or some powder goes down the primer tube and gets stuck on the slide under where the primer drops on to the slide. That causes the primer to stick up a bit instead of ride flush in the primer slide. Then one of 3 things happens: 1. the primer isn't sticking too far up and manages to still ride the slide forward to prime a case 2. the primer ends up sticking in the blue tip (usually flipped 90 degrees) and the offending piece of media/powder gets dumped out when the primer slide cycles 3. the primer gets forced out of the correct hole in the primer slide and rides in one of the other ones, which when the slide cycles will allow the primer to drop free of the press below the slide I try my best to keep the brass free of media and ensure that the powder hopper is filled away from the primer tube. This still happens to me once every 1000 rounds or so though and is quite frustrating.
  3. Agree with zombywoof. Even a basic polish of the moving parts of the trigger/hammer/sear and firing pin and associated areas in the frame and slide will improve your trigger pull while keeping primer ignition reliable. Also if you just swap in the PD 14lb hammer spring, it will function as well as the Wolff one but also improve your trigger feel. The PD ones don’t seem to stack like the Wolff ones do. I personally would not go down to a 12lb PD spring without a fairly decent polish job as well as sticking to federal primers. Having intermittent light strikes is no fun.
  4. Yes I do remember reading about that not too long ago. That definitely doesn't look good! Thanks for the heads up. I would only consider using a .40 barrel for my .40 ammo. The barrel out of one of my Stock IIs should work nicely, and if not then EAA has them in stock.
  5. Cool thanks for the info. The reason I ask is that there are several 10mm models of new Tanfos floating around that are still the "old" price. Thinking of picking one up and throwing one of my .40 barrels in there before these too get the price increased.
  6. So say I get my hands on a 10mm Tanfo. What's the consensus on shooting .40 out of it with a .40 barrel and .40 mags? The breechface should be the same size. Any other considerations besides of course using a lighter recoil spring?
  7. I load .40 major/minor at 1800 without any issues. Perhaps with a bullet sense sensor I’d feel comfortable with running it faster, but 1800 seems like a comfortable speed. I can case gauge the finished rounds about the same speed so it seems to work out.
  8. Or put in a known spring weight, rack the slide a few times to get a feel for it, swap in the unknown springs, rack the slide and figure out which one matches the “known” one the closest. Or just throw them out and put in a known spring weight.
  9. Pro is a better motor (or same motor with bigger sprocket) and bigger tablet. I upgraded and am happy I did.
  10. I regularly put 500 .40 cases in my CF at a time without issue and use One-shot on the cases. And I want to say it’s with the large shell plate as well although I’ll have to double check that when I get home. If swapping the shell plate doesn’t fix it I’d recommend watching the case feeder run visually. The problem should become clear fairly quickly once you can see what’s causing the upside-down cases.
  11. For years I’ve just pulled the 2 screws and taken the powder measure off to dump the unused powder back in the jug. I recently got the QD and am totally loving it! It’s not expensive and definitely is a time-saver. In fact, now even in the middle of a reloading session when I refill the powder hopper I’ll remove the hopper to refill. That way no stray powder flecks can find themselves down the primer tube. Definitely a good investment in my book.
  12. Hah that would be cool. But I’m just happy if it reliably fills primer tubes like he says in 45-60 seconds.
  13. The Swage Sense is a must have as is the Bullet Sense. Loading .40 I have come across plenty of crimped primer pockets with the non-toxic brass (marked NT). But the biggest advantage to the Swage Sense is to catch the occasional primer that is pulled back into the pocket by the decapper. The Bullet Sense is good to catch those times when a bullet doesn't fall. I have it happen once out of every 1000 rounds or so and I usually don't catch it in time. Spilled powder in the bullet bin is always fun to clean up. I guess the Evo/Revo has a way of attaching a primer sensor as well. I'd love to have that on my 1050 to catch those times a primer fails to make it into the pocket.
  14. The only thing more awesome than the MBF is the MBF Pro Bigger collator with a stand-alone mount. And the bullet dropper is a little beefier as well.
  15. I run a 7lb longslide recoil spring (which equates to your 9lb standard one) in my Stock 2 without any issues. I’ve even had a 6lb longslide in there but didn’t like the sluggish feel of the slide. It sounds like you’re just experiencing some binding. Recommend a good polish job at least on the frame and slide rails (and other parts as well time permitting). One place you can check for binding is where the guide rod sits in the frame, specifically where all the impact of the slide goes as it hits the frame in recoil. Without a cone-fit guide rod you’ll probably have some burrs which causes problems with the barrel lockup. If you have any burrs, file them down and use a cone-fit guide rod. Besides working with your recoil spring to get it to the ideal weight, other must-haves with a DA/SA Tanfo in my opinion are the PD firing pin spring, 15.5 PD hammer spring and a Henning (or other) cone-fit guide rod.
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