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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

RiggerJJ

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Everything posted by RiggerJJ

  1. There must be a million threads on this, did you try searching?
  2. I use a set of co witnessed flip up irons for backup, but never saw the need for 2 dots...
  3. Heavy is good, but if you know your ballistics you can deal with the wind with any bullet. Personally I wouldn't go with anything heavier than 69gn unless it's in a prs type match. 75gn and above take a higher twist barrel and they can be very expensive. And the difference between a 69 and a 75 is only 2 inches at 500 yards in a 10mph wind, and 69s are fairly cheap compared to 75s...
  4. Eh? We we're counting on April 19-21, even planned our schedule around that...prob won't be able to make it in May with HeMan 2 weeks later...
  5. I would be wary of those with that ledge or close to one, they appear to be over stretched in that area, possibly by a open major gun. They possibly could blow out on you pretty easily....
  6. I certainly would not worry about that price for pistol powder, seeing that you get almost 1000 rounds per pound... 33 a pound comes out to 3.8 cents per round... But if you buy in bulk, HS6 is only 22 per pound can, or 20 a pound in a 8 pound jug, on powdervalleyonc.com. That works out to be down to 2.5 cents per pound. You will not find many powders cheaper than that... I for one would not compromise my favorite powder for a penny a round...
  7. I would not cover up pressure signs with a rifle primer. HS6 is a fine powder for major, one of the few, your length (1.170) is correct and your bullet (124gn) is correct. I also use Win spp and have no issues with them making major.
  8. I wouldn't use a sizing die at all on the loading head. The expansion ball does not bell the mouth, it just expands the neck. Instead I would use a universal decap die in position one just to clear tumbling media from the flash hole. then if it hasn't been done already I would use an Mdie or the swage hold down die to expand and bell.
  9. This one has worked well for me for about a year so far...about $150 on Amazon Desmond DLOW-55 55mm Low Profile Ball Head Arca / RRS Compatible w Pan Lock for Tripod
  10. I would not resize bottleneck cases without lube. Sooner or later you will get a stuck case, probably sooner... without lube the 1st full length die unscrewed 2 turns may not stick, but I'll bet the trim die will...
  11. The RT trims very clean, there may be some swarf still attached to the mouth, but it all comes off in the tumbler when you are removing the lube before loading. The trim die is also a full length size die, but the case ID will be too tight for bullet seating and probably will shave the bullet because it doesn't have a bell. Most of us use an initial full length size die to do about 75% of the sizing and decapping before the trim station, and an expander/bell after the trim. Try the Dillon swage hold down die for ID "chamfering", it will expand the neck to the correct size and bell the mouth slightly when set right, as the RT die leaves the neck way too tight. Any taper crimp set to lightly kiss the mouth expansion back down to the bullet will remove the outside burr from the trimmer. Been loading bulk 223 and 308 for years this way, if you do the rest of your part right you should get sub MOA ammo with decent hollow point bullets. jj
  12. Try bumping the shoulder with a body die after seat & crimp.
  13. Another thought is the shell plate is lagging for some reason. Have you recently replaced the index ring? Check it closely to see if it's broken or not. What about the timing of the case insertion? Does the shell plate turn freely by hand or is it hard to turn? Just some thoughts...
  14. Again, a chamfering tool is not the correct tool, it also can over cut the pocket and make the case unusable. A swager, or primer pocket reamer... And a properly set up 600 can be faster than a drill if it's set up with a auto eject spring.
  15. The primer wheel should be done turning when you hit the down stop with the handle. It may go just a bit further when the finger disengages from it when you start the upstroke just to center on to the ball bearing, but only a bit.
  16. The best option is a proper tool, and a counter sink bit is not...is very easy to over do it and render the case unusable... Get a primer pocket reamer which can also be chucked in a drill, or the 600 swage tool.
  17. There probably is gunk under the primer wheel causing dragging while it turns. Remove the shell plate. Then remove the primer assembly and clean under the primer wheel. It's only 2 hex head screws, about 10 primers will be left on the platform, the rest will stay in the tube. Don't be afraid to take stuff apart... When you reassemble, the two screws holding the primer assmembly shouldn't be cranked down too tight. But be sure to tighten the shell plate enough so it doesnt rock. And don't forget the set screw that holds the main shell plate bolt in place...
  18. Whaaaaattt??? I use HS6 for both major and minor, works fine...
  19. All your questions about recipes with Hodgdon, IMR, and Winchester powders can be answered at hodgdonreloading.com and use a crono!
  20. I load all my precision ammo on a 650. I do trickle powder thou, but get sub moa accuracy. jj
  21. With iron sight? I'm happy with 6 inches, knowing fully well that most of that 2 moa is me and not the gun...
  22. Heck, I shoot groups/zero at 300 with iron sights (or 1x) after I have installed a new sight.
  23. When you spend 10s of thous on tgts, shoot the cheap crap ammo that damages them at them all you want. Otherwise, adhere to the rules at the match. The reason we don't allow magnetic projectile ammo is two fold, it can spark off the tgts and rocks and cause fire, and it will damage tgts. jj
  24. I don't wet tumble, again, I find the time involved is too great. I clean (by dry tumble) 223 prior to each head. Once to get it all cleaned up before running it. And again after processing so it's not all slimy from the lube after loading... I also clean pistol brass twice, because I use lube. (I like the reduction in effort and the consistent ammo I get, it's another controversy like wet vs dry tumbling) Once before running it to clean it, and again after loading to remove the lube. (tumbling loaded ammo causes no problems) jj
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