9x45

Aftermarket parts = aftermarket problems....

57K, I have loaded for over 50 years, how about you? Any auto progressive is faster than any turret. I've run many turrets before I got my first Dillon 550 in 1986.

Primary, this may help.

Simple facts are while there are many gun owners, and most of those stand behind a bench and shoot at a box target at an indoor range, there are very, very few competition shooters, and even fewer LEO*** who are shooters. Like Cha said, 4 years of hand holding produced zero new shooters. If some one is going to shoot competition, they are just going to show up and jump in. Also realize that some clubs do not want to expand at all. They don't have 12 bays and unlimited parking and 5 conex boxes full of steel and dozens of people to work for free. They operate matches that they (the chiefs and helpers like to shoot). Bays are limited as well as the number of shooters. Other clubs are simply not interested in starting newbies. And not all ranges are interested in having clubs host action competition matches. *** Generally speaking LEO Range Masters want nothing to do with competition. They think of us as high speed low drag and counterproductive to use of force training. I have shot with LEO for over 30 years and usually most of my squad is LEO, but it is not common at all.

We have way too many shooters here already. What's needed is more ranges and clubs to operate matches.

Go with a Dillon 550. Put a light above the bullet seating station and pay attention to which head stamp you use. Freedom Munitions, IMT, AmmoLoad and MaxxTech all use the same junk stepped case so throw those away. The Square Deal is also fine for pistol, and it is faster than a turret. The absolute fastest and easiest way for a newbie reloader to start is find some one at your local USPSA/IDPA/Steel Challenge match that will set up you. 50 years of experience in 5 minutes and you are cranking out rounds without all the newbie worries. I've set many new guys up, and it saves them from alot of beginner mistakes. You can't know that stuff from reading a loader manual or watching you tubes.

You can run cast lead in a stock barrel, but you need to keep an eye on it. Extremes are plated, and I've never had good accuracy with plated. My Minor load is a 124 gr Bayou (HiTek coated) bullet over 3.4 grains of TG at 1.100" OAL. Goes about 1,050 fps out of a OEM G17. TG is a high density fast powder, but .1 grains is not going to go over pressure. I've run 124 Montana Gold JHPS on top of 5.5 grains of TG at 1.175" OAL to make Major. No signs of primer deformation.

I run mineral oil in walnut then NuFinish in corn. No dust, runs open top, and no need for case lube, it's slick as it comes out. Media lasts for about 20,000 rounds. I get media from a local bird farm, still working on 50lb bags from 10 years ago.

There is no part in a Glock called a disconnector or a striker. And Glock uppers don't care how much slop there is between the slide grooves and the frame rails, they are not 1911s. But It's still not a slide problem, it's an aftermarket firing pin and connector issue. Do you have an OEM Glock lower to try it on?

Get a G34/G35 and keep your G19 for carry, or an occasional IDPA match.

All of us use reloads to get sufficient enough accuracy and be above the minor floor. But the question is why? try to make GM with a Minor floor Glock? One of local LEO Hoser's made GM with a G20 duty gun and duty ammo (hot, hot, hot). But then he could control the weapon at 290 lbs and a 64" chest, all muscle. Made Arnold like a mini me. If that is your goal, that's a noble goal. It's just going to hurt allot unless it's all A's... and very, very quickly... It's like when I shoot my G31 carry gun with full house ammo on a classifier (too painful to run the whole match). It only makes sense to me, and no one else.

Signing, you can't buy the brass tip separately, you just order a new primer magazine for a 650. And to be fair and honest, Dillon does not recommend this. It;s just that I have run it for so long, and in my old 1986 550 without ever since primer issues. Besides static electricity discharge is far more dangerous than the brass tip.

They don't lead, cost half of that of jackets, and are just dang near as accurate, especially Minor. They will run in an Open gun, but sploog up the comp. I switched years ago after my blood lead got up to 28 from moly coated. Went to Bayous and it dropped to 8 in just a few months. 6 is normal for guys running FMJs, shooting the same amount as I do, because there is still lead in the primer (lead styphnate)

Nasty things, Book load values are not good because the volume is reduced and you couldn't use a bullet longer than what they loaded, whatever that was. Plus the jacket can separate in your chamber, leaving you with a dead gun, and a PITA to get out that sleeve. Originally to prevent bullet setback, but not cheaper to make. Course you have to wonder why these upstart companies don't do like the 100 year old plus makers, WW and FC, and use a cannellure.

junk it, it only takes a few seconds to crank out a new good round. Who cares about a 7 cent bullet and a 3 cent primer....

Have my 550 since 1986, and it will easily do 400 an hour. Now if you need the speed, then you can't beat the 650, or the 1050, with bullet feeders, and even faster with an auto drive.

The cheapy digitals are just as good as the expensive ones for reloading.

Never saw it with Bayous on 9mms that I have run for years. What powder?

only enough bell to seat, and only enough de-bell at the crimp station.

Jack, ISPC was over with then, USPSA started in 1985............ Unless you were stationed outside the US.

$$$ for Doug... Well, that is if you shoot the Bianchi cup.

not common for near straight walls like 40S&W, I broke one in over 150K rounds on 9mm, which has a much greater taper and pulls much harder on the upstroke to get it out. Call Dillon

Those are not brass cases, how long have you been reloading?

yes. do you shoot there?

You mean .010"-.015"???