blkbrd

One of our local matches have made it so that 2 Cs will not nutralize with minor so its faster for me to put 3 into them than worry about the huge penalty for a FTN.

I RO'ed and shot on Saturday and have not seen any results yet.

I have had great luck with. 175gr. SMK, 44gr. Varget, Lapua Brass, BR-2 primer @ 2.875" & 155gr. Lapua Scenar, 45.5gr. Varget, Lapua Brass, BR-2 primer @ 2.875" Both sub 1/2 MOA at 300yd out of my AICS M700.

Sounds like the attendence at the CFRPC match is going to be lower than normal as many of us will be down at Franks place shooting the Open stages.

Happy Birthday: Is it good or bad that I will always be able to call you a kid, and have a good excuse why you can move faster than me? Enjoy your new birthday present.

You had to ask didn't you Daniel; My gun developed a nasty case of hammer follow on the 1st stage I shot, I believe it was 9, was able to get it running again and finished with a 67% on the stage. My next stage, 10 it choked completly to the point of almost getting me a DQ as it went bang into a target one of the times I cycled it, but it was a mechanical malfunction. Lost a chunk of my thumb from the slide biting it. Note to everyone, never ever ever thumb cock a gun that is following, even if it catches it won't hold. Thought I had it working on stage 1 after me working on it as well as 2 gunsmiths. Nope; I shot it in like 60 seconds at about 18% using it like a high cap pump open gun going through 4 mags in the process of trying to cycle rounds through the gun as it was following like mad:wacko: Shoot one cycle 3 shoot one cycle 2 good hits till I ran out of ammo though? Tried replacing the sear then the disconnector at the match to no avail. Got home and replaced all the fire control parts using all my limited guns guts and "I think" its fixed. No way I could have shot the whole match on Sunday, not to mention my mental game was lost. Did good at the Glock match on Saturday though.

I ordered 2 carriers about 3 weeks ago and recieved them in one week.

Time to practice for the Florida Open which uses the IPSC Classic/politically correct/Turtle targets. The link http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...24926&hl=target for the USPSA 1/3 scale targets for dry fire is great but I need one for the Turtles, any luck?? Thanks

I would lay very good odds that under NDI inspection you will find Sulphur Oxide stringers forming elongated inclusions. These are a result of small amounts of free sulphur being added durring the steel manufacturing process to increase machinability. The sulphur is normally removed durring the hot forging process but sometimes some slips through in even the best steel. I have found this upon inspection of a few cracked and blown barrels of several different makes. Most makers use low sulphur steel to prevent this but you can't tell unless you HiRes Xray the barrel, which no one does. Given the statements I doubt the low charge detonation theory or the idea of 2 bullets being loaded in one case mistake. You should be able to get a replacement barrel from the maker, but may have a hard time getting the barrel manufacturer to replace all the other parts and pay for the labor.

Good call

I like my 18" JP mid weight with the Cooley comp as recomended by JP. Mine has a mil-type upper but I have been playing with a buddies CTR-02 upper and love it. A little bit of weight up front helps me to stabilize the offhand shots, it speeds up multiples and does not seem to slow down transitions. Plus I hate long shot strings with ultra light weight barrels the exra metal seems to take the heat better. The CTR lower is trick but cost?? It is sweet. But you can save some cash with a milspeck lower and upgrade later if you want a matching lower. I would love to have a complete rifle in CTR-02 gray. The lightweight stainless steel carrier system is the new standard. Be sure to get the JP trigger package and not the drop in, it is much nicer. I noticed your in the Northeast, if your matches are like ours down South a Red dot like an Eotech may is faster. I tried several scope sights and found the Eotech fastest for our fast close in rifle stages using pistol bays. I like an old A1 stock but am going to retrofit one of my Magpul stocks and try out. The Magpul trigger guard is a great upgrade. As for grips try them all, some like Hoges I like falcon sure grip Ergo. John Pauls rifles set the bar in the sport , listen to him.

Shouldnt you have the gunsmith fix the darn thing. Any smith that is selling Open guns SHOULD know what loads & mag combinations will work 100%, and should help you with troubleshooting and get you running in quick order. That said there only are about 5 I know of that fit the bill of an open gun specialist. Now I doubt you want to here about my ultra reliable open shorty major 9 that works better than my Glocks, Limited guns or singlestacks.

My point exactly, and proper technique is not de-activating every safety in your gun by doing stupid things, creating a hazzard for yourself and others. You just can't make a Glock trigger into a 1911 trigger as you wont have any safety left when you do. You can remove "some" pretravel and make the stroke smooth, light with a crisp break, but you need some of that pretravel to deactivate and reactivate the safetys. I heard some safety officials and ROs at an area match talking that they will be watching for unsafe "Glock triggers" at chrono tables and enforcing rules 5.1.4 & 5.1.6. It's just a matter of time before USPSA/IPSC/IDPA officials catch on to all the unsafe Glock triggers with non functioning trigger and drop safetys and put there foot down.

Use a wood file to slightly enlarge the belt slot on the mag holder. I found out the hard way if they are forced on they will break from the preload when you run them into somthing like a wall .

This is just getting just stupid. When you remove the trigger safety on a Glock you are in essence doing the same thing as removing the thumb safety on a 1911, that has a pinned grip safety. THERE IS NO OTHER SAFETY. Don't give me this "drop safety" crap, as how many of you have heard of a dropped gun going off vs how many have seen and heard of AD's while holstering hot? What happens on a striker fired gun with a 2.5 lb trigger and minimum takeup when you holster the gun and bump the trigger? Bang.......the end of you and your families life as you know it, most of us dont work so well with a hole in our hip or knee. If you don't bleed to death at the range the medical bills and loss of work may ruin you. Dont get me wrong. I love my Rafael Sotelo 2.2 Lb trigger. Smoothing the finger contact surface of the trigger safety is nice, even radiousing the aft safety to frame engagement surface a small amount so it has a smooth dis-engagement is OK. But you need to understand how a Glock trigger & safety works when adjusting take up and doing other modifications. It is easy to reduce the amount of take up to a point where neither the drop safety or trigger safety will function. This also applies to Lightning strike trigger assys. Stupid things like "gluing" or removing the trigger safety as some have suggested is just dumb and I don't want to be on the same range as them. I will also not feel bad to send them home from any match I RO or chronograph at. JM2C

When using One shot (The only lube I have found I can stand working with) I have had great luck spraying silicone spray "LPS" on a towel dumping the rounds on the towel spraying the rounds, folding it in half and running them back and fourth cleaning the gunk and one shot as well as slicking them up for great feeding. It is amazing how much grime comes off the rounds on the towl even though the cases were spotless before the reloading process, it looks like the resizing process removes some tarnish, the silicone spray cleans them nicely, leaves them slick for good feeding in hicap mags and seems to preserve the nice shiny finish from tarnish.

I use Win. small RIFLE primers in my minor 40 loads with a RS drop in kit with 100% reliability.

She shot an open gun on Sunday this may help out, or not? You should have seen here face when I said this is a twin of the Open gun that was sold to buy her rock.

You could use spit and sawdust with a G35 and go 2K rounds. The dry {wax, teflon, graphite} based lubes are fine if your in an enviroment like a sandbox that will gum up anything using a wet lube. Dry lubes are not great lubes at protecting your gun from wear over tens of thousands of rounds and will not keep particles in suspension so they may be easly wiped off. Moble 1, FP10, Miltech, Remoil and a bunch of other synthetic wet lubricants will protect a gun from wear much better than any wax or dry lube.

I will be shooting the Open on Friday, working and shooting the Glock match at CFRPC on Saturday then back down to frostproof on Sunday for the shootoffs and award-prize table pending a better outcome than last years debacle. We do need to have an Enos get together Sat eve.

How about the one I shot this weekend, 10 shots at 300 yards into an inch. Did I fail to mention it was with my AICS 308???

It depends on where you are? Here in Florida I use a wide open cylinder for everything as its mostly a close in hosing steel reloading contest.

For what gun??

Derek is an artist. The gun is a work of art and the fit is perfect.

The ONLY reason I can think of as a reason to shoot lead is cost savings$$??? Then why shoot VV powders when Tightgroup or straight Clays are both cheaper and Clays is softer and cleaner than even 320 in a 45 shooting lead.