blkbrd

In New Mexico dont worry about bears, worry about 2 legged critters.

+1 JP 18" for hoser matches 20" for long range. Although I use standard lowers not CTR-02"s

True blue is in no way slower than HS6 Powder charts built on a standard pressure dont really tell the whole story when pressures start to rise. True blue is fine for a long gun but when you start to push it in a shorty it gets scary fast. HS6, Autocomp, Silhouette, 3N37 ext are good choices depending on barrel length and bullet weight. Search function is your friend, remember 9mm loads are very barrel length and port dependent. I love HS6 in my short gun with holes, but in my full lenght gun its dirty.

Fiction. However a piston air rifle will destroy a scope built for normal recoil due to the reverse recoil impulse.

Where are you located. Depends on the rifle setup and brand.

+1

If you didnt see the results, nothing happened? I have seen case failures where some thought the gun blew up, but nothing was wrong with the gun just the case.

There are many alloys of titanium just like there are many alloys of steel and aluminum. If you wanted it to last forever a chromium or cobalt nickel based superalloy is the answer It will only be $500+ for just the comp. Steel alloys can have a good machinablity, low cost and long life. The more expensive and PITA it is to machine the better the life, just the way it is. There are many titanium alloys for different purposes. My bet is most that become comps are not the best alloys for avoiding erosion due to availability and machinability. A quality Ti comp will last as long as the barrel, so pick which ever one feels best for you. IMHO, I like a Ti comp on a 5" gun and a steel comp on a shorty. Hard anodizing on aluminum is not really hard at all when you start talking about high pressure particulate erosion, but they are easy to replace so if you want super light and are willing to pay, just call it an expendable item. Design is a whole different topic for gunsmiths with input from top shooters and maybe a gas turbine engineer.

Still cant find any results or photos?

Listed loads do seem a bit light. You are verifying weights by throwing 10 charges on a scale and checking average aren't you? You do have a scale? For loads that light you may want to consider a lighter recoil spring. Stovepipes could very well be from light loads. A chronograph is a must. Most competitors prefer a fairly fast burning powder for light loads. I/E HS-6 is more of an open gun major powder that is way dirty and loud at minor pressures. A faster powder will generate more pressure and will burn cleaner.

Avoid plastic...So that means you can't use this with Glocks? Turbine oil is not anywhere near the same thing as motor oil. It will melt many plastics, super thin, nasty, stinks, does not have the detergents or additive packages as galling and friction is not the problem, heat is. You don't change turbine oil, you just add extra as its deposited around the country. I like Brownells gun oils mixed with slide glide. But Mobil 1 works in a pinch.

Its just the mixed brass not really anything to worry about. Adjust your belling so you just don't shave any bullets and you will be fine. Shaving will be indicated by little half moon pieces of bullet brass or lead in your loaded round box or cleaning towel.

You said 308 LaRue accurate and economical in the same sentence?? I like 175 SMK's and 155 lapua's, neither is economical but sub MOA easily.

This is wrong. I will not give legal advice for reasons I won't disclose on this forum. But I will say that this is a commonly-believed myth, and it's wrong. True; The big question is whether your buddies wife is going to sue you into bankruptcy because he had a squib then racked another one in and pulled the trigger, wasn't wearing glasses, but its still your fault?

Second on what the smith wants to use.