robertg5322

And got 50 rounds in it. Impressive. I may have to try and get 48 into my ETS31 & Korean G17.

Seems the mag in the gun is doing something to keep it working (besides supplying ammunition). I'd be checking everything the mag touches or could touch when in the gun. Trigger bow, disconnector, grip safety, mag catch (it's position may change and affect over travel screw when mag is removed). I'm sure there's other things, but this is where I'd start.

What mags are you coupling?

If I wasn't in California I'don't have a 50 round drum. We're about to lose any access to >10 round mags in July. Gonna suck until I escape.

Handle the Springfield first. Mine rattled like a baby toy. That said, for the prices you stated, you can upgrade the Springfield internals to good stuff and still be cheaper than the STI. But as stated, the Dan Wesson reputation is impressive. Or a Sig Max, already with top shelf internals, front strap checkering and a good coating. Just gotta get used to that funky slide.

Thanks for the info Eric. I'll look for some Metalform mags, those were AR Stoner models, which were reasonably priced, and with the Stoner name, I hoped were good cquality. They're strong, they do not oil-can when you squeeze them, not even a little. Also going to try them with the NFA upper to see if they're too big for it. They do slide easily into the magwell adapter, so If I have to take a Dremel to the upper or a sander to the mags, I will. Oh, one last point of comparison, when I bought the Matrix upper it was $200.00 at joeboboutfitters.com. The NFA is $239.00 anywhere I could find it. Of the two, I think I prefer the Matrix, too bad it didn't have a LRBHO. Cause you're right, 10 round PCC isn't as much fun as 45 round PCC is.

Mag pics, see wear mark at upper rear corner. This is where it rubs the inside of the upper.

Wanted a side charging upper for my AR9, and after comparing what was out there, I initially bought a Matrix Arms side charging upper over the NFA. Main differences were the NFA is 6061 aluminum, Matrix is 7075-T6. Probably not a huge deal. Also the NFA has a larger ejection port. And the Matrix Arms charging handle rides on a steel rod, the NFA is a flat plate in a groove on the upper. Main reasons were the fact that when charging the Matrix Arms, the side charging handle rod did not protrude from the rear. I couldn't tell from the pics on the NFA web site, but it looked as if the bar (it's a steel rod on the Matrix Arms upper, an aluminum plate on the NFA) stuck out the back of the upper when the unit was pulled back. Matrix Arms website said their unit had the LRBHO feature (it does not when used with Glock mag compliant lowers). That was kind of disappointing, but not a huge deal. Unit worked well, no issues. But I live in California, and come July, we're limited to 10 round magazines, so I kind of need a LRBHO. So I bit the bullet and bought the NFA unit. As I thought, the bar sticks out the rear of the unit when the bolt is racked. Not a huge deal, but I like the clean look of the Matrix Arms unit better. So I figure I'll build an Colt magazine compatible upper with the Matrix Arms upper. Ran into an issue; the mags seem too wide for the upper. The upper rear corners of the mag rub against the upper receiver. Anyone know if this is common? The mags go into a RRA magwell block with no issues, but get wedged in the upper. Hate to take a Dremel to it, but may have to. See pics. Matrix left side: New Frontier left side; Close up of NFA slide protruding;

That's a long magazine. At that point, why not just go with one of the drum mags? That's 50 rounds for $75.00.

I haven't had an issue with the spring joint passing the connector, though it was something I thought might be an issue. I'm using an El Cheapo Korean mag for my short one and it dis not feed 100% when I used it in my Glocks, and does not drop free so I'm reluctant to use it as the feeding half of the unit.

Good to know.

Yeah, no need to waste a good Glock mag for the lower half.

It is an ETS, for the other mag I used an old, $8.00 Korean G17 mag. Feeds fingrips@gmail.com, holds at least 45 rounds and is pretty easy to load up to round 33, at which point a MagLula loader was used.

Those see-through plastic mags that come with some guns, not sure if it's ETS, I'll check when I get home.

Any savings would be chewed up in the cost of 10mm brass and aggravation of picking up said brass at matches.

Got a 31 +17 set up. Holds 45 easy, I haven't felt the need to load more but there's a little wiggle room there. Seats pretty easy and functions fine. Long and heavy though.

I just ground a standard el cheapo box end wrench to work. Took a ton of metal off, but we're not talking super tight torque here. even accounting for my time, it cost well under $30.00.

Check the primer cup, mine was rubbing on the inside of the primer magazine base. It it is, you'll notice wear on the right side of the primer cup and on the inside, right wall of the primer magazine base. I drilled and tapped the primer magazine base and ran a small nylon screw (8 x 32 if memory serves) into it to guide the slide away from hitting the base. Not too much, you don't want to cause friction and make your problem worse, just enough to keep the primer cup from rubbing the housing. Cut the nylon screw flush with the housing and lube with black graphite spray. Ignore the hole on the right. Mistakenly drilled their first. Measure once, cut twice right? I also use the aftermarket bearing base as well, just cause why not? Also check the mounting screw holes that hold the base to the press. If you tighten them too much, they will bulge into the primer slide bar. If you did this, it's easy to fix with a file. Sorry for the crappy pic.

Just like that. Heard the little nub fly across the garage and hit something.

I have the Safariland USPSA kit. Two issues. First, the belt retention strips on the back of the mount were cheap aluminum and broke (crumbled actually) when I attempted to install the unit on my belt (belt was a bit thicker than the track in the mount). I replaced them with kydex strips and no issues. there. E mails to Safariland went unanswered. Go figure. The second issue is that it appears Safariland uses the same cheap, cast aluminum on all parts of their products. Loosening and tightening the screws caused them to strip out after about three adjustments. Fortunately the ones that stripped were for the little round pad at the base of the rail, so it was not a big deal, but still annoying. Other than those issues, it works great. I'm just afraid to adjust it in any way now.

Tried lead (not coated) in 9mm a bunch of years ago, always leaded up bad, whichever gun I used (Beretta 92, XD, Glock with KKM barrel, second Beretta). I finally gave up, not worth the trouble when you look at the cost of jacketed or plated 9mm bullets. Gotta be careful with plated, over crimp and you get sparkly stuff out the front and keyholed bullet holes in targets as the plating is ripped off the bullet. No issues with lead in .38 Special, .40 or .45 guns.

3moa Bushnell TRS25. Because I had on laying around, I figured I'd give it a shot before spending more money. Seems to be working good so far. Time and use will tell...

Looking forward to your post. Bob

Yeah, I get that. But for the same reason I won't be shooting 150 power factor in my pistol (we're talking USPSA matches here), I'd rather not shoot 150 power factor in my rifle. Less recoil, less dot bounce, less time between shots. So, since you have a shorter barrel (hence the term Short Barreled Rifle), logically it should require more powder (than a 16" barrel) to make minor power factor. More powder equals more gas/boom, equals more bolt speed (blowback system here), more dot bounce. My question was whether it actually required more powder to make minor power factor in an SBR than a 16" barreled rifle, and if yes, was there also an increase in felt recoil?

It is. But all things being equal, more powder is usually required ro attain a given velocity in a ahorter barrel. Bob