MemphisMechanic

Well, hopefully that gets sorted out soon! Your space looks amazing.

You still haven’t caught the sarcasm in that one? Buther block, or stainless steel over plywood are the only surfaces that belong in a workshop.

Putting all that money into the room them leaving the 1050 as a Peasant Edition doesn’t make a whole lot of sense.

Oops

The pro gets you better sights and a slightly less worse trigger. It’s a range toy for casual shooters, but not up to snuff as a competitior’s gun. A set of Warren or Dawson or whomever’s sights and some APEX goodies go into either gun right away. Paying extra for the PRO is a waste of money. I’d hold out for a 5” 2.0 (non Pro) to become available if you have your heart set on the M&P platform.

Then you have the new, heavy brass super-bling pads that the Ben Stoeger pro shop just released, too. Basepads everywhere for these things nowadays.

Unless you put $1400 into a Tanfo and end up selling it to shoot a plastic gun again.

@mahamoti perhaps you trigger finger is shorter than mine. I didn’t like how close that put the mag button to the lower half of my Strike enhanced bolt catch, and just wasn’t happy with the button being under the knuckle of the index finger. The Troy design puts the release right where the pad of my index finger naturally rests alongside the gun.

I begin classifiers using a 20rd mag fitted with a 32 rd spring. It’s cut down to 4 or 6 coils longer than the factory 20rd spring. A seriously extra-power setup. I’ll only load 10-12 rounds into it, and it won’t spit rounds everywhere. The problem is that when the butt of the magazine lands, the weight of all those rounds compresses down into the magazine and then they bounce back and come flying upward. Less weight, stronger spring, less mess. Reload to a big stick (I use TF +10s on colt mags) and learn to embrace the beercan grip. Trust me, it’s faster and more consistent than pointing the mag in like a pistol reload with a short mag... because the gun stays completely shouldered. Look at how he draws the mag, and how little the gun moves from it’s firing position:

Run Colt mags in any decent lower. They engage the standard AR-15 magazine release, and LRBHO works better with Colts than any Glock mag if that’s important to you. Toss a Troy ambi mag release into the gun and it’s perfect for a lefty. (The Norgon and SIG MPX buttons work too, but the Troy has the best leverage and is in the perfect spot.)

What he said.

I have never paid for 9mm brass. It’s everywhere at every range you visit. Really helps keep the cost down on your reload’s price.

Safe up for the MBF. The others are either unreliable, incredibly loud, or both.

Keep your dominant hand on fire control at all times. Set the rifle up so you can do that. A left side charger and a BAD lever or similar might work. However. A *lot* of guys have short-stroked their PCCs enough that they cannot be locked back, and still run them very well. Barring a double-feed I don’t see a huge need for the ability to lock the bolt back. But it’s generally better to build a gun that runs 100% than one that’s easy to clear malfunctions on.

Virtually certain it’s illegal to use part of a noshoot (cutting the A zone out.) I know because I’m an azzhole stage designer, and I’ve tried to do it long ago. You have to stape up four intact noshoots to make a square “port from hell.” That’s entirely legal. By all means, check the rule book to confirm. What I am certain about... is noshoots in front of targets causing issues. Shoot-throughs do not count in USPSA. If a bullet fully tags the noshoot (doesn’t break the outer perf) then it’s not a scoring hit on whatever it strikes behind it. The problem is... steel behind one can still fall. The simplest way to safely challenge your shooters? Put the noshoot behind the steel. A mike still incurrs the same penalty.

Wow. You gentleman took this topic off into a highly irrelevant left field.

Stop contradicting yourself. I love when people do this. “My gun has never jammed” ... followed by the reasons for all the jams it has had, in their very next breath.

@RGA I’d post a new topic on it over here in this non-Dillon reloading forum, too. Mark7 shouldn’t have full control / censorship on their customers ability to help each other out, and doing so is well within the rules here on BEnos.

A good rule of thunb for ultralight loads is to run a 115gr bullet with the powder charge we’d normally use for a 147gr in USPSA/IDPA matches. For example, a 115 over 3.2gr of titegroup. The primary thing you’ll need to do is install a lighter recoil spring. Typically that’s an 11 to 13 pound replacement spring.

Yes it is.

That’s damn tiny for a grip screw. But then, I’m used to CZs and Tanfos which annoyingly rely on one screw per grip panel.

What kind of fastener does this gun use? Is it something you could likely take out with a heat gun and then the use of an impact driver.

When setting up your powder drop, dump five to ten charges on the scale and take an average. One three-ish grain powder charge is beyond the resolution of your $20-100ish digital scale to measure with laboratory accuracy, as @tanks mentioned. 30ish grains of powder? Not so much.

I agree that a percentile system is ideal, if we’re to maintain the principle behind the current system. And I also know that we’ll never get it. It’s a simple and logical upgrade... to what was an incorrect and complicated attempt at a fix.

Ream the barrel. I cut my Walthers (which have equally short chambers) to take fat-nosed pills out to 1.160” Life is good now. With a long 147gr bullet shoved that deeply into the case, I was getting a fair number of case gauge failures because the sides of some older brass would bulge while loading. Send it over to a shop like Patriot Defense or Grams Engineering... or talk to a few of us forum members who can cut it for you.