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SnowinOnRaton

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    Sam Hillman

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  1. Well said. Im just happy I got one before the latest price increase. With what they are going for now I probably would have just gone with a bare bones 1050 and added a bullet feeder down the line and even an ammobot or auto drive after a few more years.
  2. Awesome. I’m just new to reloading so I wanted to make sure I was in the safe range mostly. I completely disassembled the powder measure to understand it better. I cleaned everything, reassembled, and set it up again and I seem to be getting a little better consistency now. I did the cross hatch scratches with 120 grit on the plunger head per their trouble shooting doc so maybe that helped. Either way I’m good to go for now and this press is just awesome. Very happy camper right now!
  3. Thanks for the reply’s guys. I had my info a little crossed but like you guys said I should be more than fine. I mixed up the Hornady Manual info with the Hodgdon site info when I typed my question. Below is the specific info from the book and the site. I loaded an RMR FMJ-RN with a target 5.5 gr and C.O.L. 1.125. This is just range ammo for my wife and I. We don’t shoot competitions so this is just practice ammo. We’re just trying to get a little more bang for our buck and loading our own saves about $40-$50 per 1000 rounds. Every little bit adds up as they say. On another note, I saw on the High Road forum where a couple guys successfully added the Hornandy case activation linkage to the Redding 10x so I might go that route if the Mark7 fix takes too long. Hornady 10th Edition Hodgdon CFE-Pistol 115 gr FMJ-RN C.O.L. 1.100 4.7 gr 1000 fps 4.9 gr 1050 fps 5.3 gr 1100 fps 5.5 gr 1150 fps 5.8 gr 1200 fps Hodgdon website CFE-Pistol 115 gr SPR GDHP C.O.L. 1.125 Starting Load 5.3 gr 1059 fps Maximum Load 5.9 gr 1185 fps
  4. I have a newbie question. The Hodgdon loading data says CFE-Pistol loads for 115gr FMJ-RN are 5.3-5.8 range. The Mark7 powder measure is consistent enough to stay in that range but let’s say for the sake of argument that it threw a 5.2 or 5.1 charge. Would that be light enough to cause a squib or is that not really something I should be concerned about with a couple tenths below the minimum recommended charge weight?
  5. Thanks for this info. I can stop trying to trouble shoot this on my own for now. I’ll give them a call to see what they say about a time frame for a fix. Thanks!
  6. Agreed. This seems to be what I’m experiencing and from what I’ve read it’s a common issue. I’m going to make sure I go through all of their trouble shooting tips in the PDF from the Mark 7 forum. At this point though I think the only one I haven’t tried is the cross hatching scratches on the face of the plunger (part number 201-1167 in the exploded parts doc) with sand paper. Also forgot to mention I’m using the Dramworx Glass hopper so I’m sure it’s not a static issue.
  7. Thanks for doing this. It was good to see what other folks are getting. I’m running the manual Evo and I’m having a little trouble getting consistent drops. I’m loading 9mm. I’m testing with Hodgsdon CFE-Pistol aiming for 5.5 gr. Using 20 drops I’m getting anywhere from 5.29 to 5.78 on the extreme ends. Typical charge spread seems to be 5.4 to 5.6. Is 2 tenths considered fine for range ammo? What kind of accuracy do you competition shooters find acceptable? I’m being super consistent with my lever pulls. Made sure the powder arm is going through the full range of motion. I ran some tests with my Redding 10x and over 20 drops I’m getting 5.46 to 5.58 with 90% of those within .05 of my target 5.5. The Redding is a beast! Wish I could modify it to actuate and just use it. I will say once Mark 7 improves consistency on these powder measures they will really have something special. The build quality and smoothness of this powder drop is amazing. The press itself is simply stunning. I’ve got everything else running flawless. Once I get the powder measure consistency dialed in I’ll be over the moon. I’m gonna try some tests tomorrow with Alliant Power Pistol but seeing as it’s also a flake powder and looks pretty much identical to the CFE-Pistol I’m guessing the results won’t be any different. Also, I don’t have a great scale. I’m using the cheapo WAOAW digital scale but double checking every charge with my RCBS 10-10 beam scale. Is anyone one here getting really accurate drops with this powder measure? If so, what powder and charge size are you using?
  8. I use the FA separator then I just dump the pins back the FA tumbler. I never have an issue dropping pins. When I want to remove my pins and dry them for whatever reason I find a “nut milk bag” works incredibly well. My wife had to get herself another one because hers kept ending up in my reloading room.
  9. Make sure you put yourself on their email waiting list. I was just talking to customer service last week and they are getting a much better handle on how many Evo Manual presses they can make available each month. I was told they will soon be offering “some” each month. How many, I don’t know. That said, I had one on order that just arrived last week. I placed the order on Sep 18. I got one of those emails saying they were in stock and I immediately placed an order. Within hours I noticed the website was back to saying they were out of stock again. Apparently I had managed to get an order in due to a system glich. Rather than cancel my order they went ahead and put me in line. I placed the order in kind of ‘the heat of the moment’ not really knowing how I was going to pay for it but I had PayPal Credit and 6 months interest free to figure it out so I made an impulse buy. Well fast forward to December and I was rethinking my extravagant purchase due to some unexpected expenses. I called to cancel my order but the press had literally shipped earlier that day. I figured I would just return it unopened and eat the shipping once it arrived. Long story long.... I stupidly opened the box and man let me tell you, it’s one thing to see it in pictures, but it’s another thing entirely to have it in front you. I live in Arizona and I’m about 20 minutes from the Dillon showroom. I’ve been there many times drooling over the 1050 but this is a whole other level of machine. To the OP’s question, is it worth it? Yes, definitely. Would I be happy with a 1050, no doubt. It’s a great machine. No one can take that away from Dillon but I can tell you the hype over the quality and engineering of this press is not just talk. It’s just jaw dropping. I had had every intention of returning it but now I’m looking at selling some other gear I own because I just really don’t want to let this go. Also, I’m super happy that I didn’t cave and go with the Evo Pro. The Manual is all I need right now and I just couldn’t be happier with it. Anyway... I’m a newbie loader who’s only loaded a few hundred rounds of 9mm on a single stage Forster Coax. Which I also love. What a great choice that was too. So take my 2 cents for what it’s worth. I’m a “buy once, cry once” kinda guy and I love quality tools and I can tell you this is one purchase I’ll not regret. Now if I can just figure out how to pay for it! ;o)
  10. I agree. My Evo (manual version) just arrived and I have already found myself searching through this thread more than a few times for posts I remember reading about.
  11. I decap before I tumble so no worries there. I’m doing everything on a single stage press at the moment. Can’t wait until my Evolution gets here! I just wanted to make sure not drying in the oven or dehydrator wouldn’t cause clumping or some other issue.
  12. Newbie loader here so forgive my ignorance but how dry does the brass need to be? I ask because I’ve been cleaning brass in prep to load my first ever test loads for my first ever reloads. I have about 10k of 9mm brass I’ve saved this year from factory ammo purchases that my wife and I shot during the year. I’ve been wet tumbling with SS. After washing I dump each load (about 500 cases) on a towel and just pat dry. Then they sit in a clean 5 gallon bucket waiting to be resized. I’m planning on reloading in 1k batches after I de-prime, clean, and resize all 10k. So the previously washed and pat dried cases will have been further “air drying” another week or so. The first few thousand I’ve cleaned are all currently “dry to the touch” inside and out and have been sitting for a few days already. Is “dry to the touch” dry enough or is actually necessary to bake them in the oven or a food dehydrator? Is that step only needed when your loading them immediately after cleaning them?
  13. At that price it might be worth it to me when I consider the time savings of cleaning and processing myself. May I ask where you buy yours from?
  14. A lot of info here so thanks for that everybody. It’s pretty much as I suspected. For my needs anyway, I can’t see where buying new brass would ever make sense. Being new to reloading I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t something I was misunderstanding or missing regarding the cost or benefits. It just seems to me with the average cost of new unfired 9mm brass being equal on average to a finished round (that includes reloadable case), there is just no reason to buy new brass. I currently have about 6k rounds on hand that I need to clean so I have plenty to get me started and keep me busy for now. ?
  15. Thx for the replies guys. Yeah I totally get I’m not going to “save money” so to speak. I’m trying to get more shooting in for the same out of pocket expense. Just trying to maximize our shooting to dollar ratio. I was just stunned to see the cost of new unfired brass is the same as some loaded factory ammo. Stunned! ?
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