MemphisMechanic

@Bryamill the benefits to Major are pretty much that anytime you’re facing a target you can shoot on the move, or a tight partial, you can be much more agressive. Hammer two C’s into the target and move on. I’m not saying Charlies are as good as A’s, but they hurt half as much as they did in minor. Unless the hit factor of the stage is very low, major means you get to cut loose and not sweat the C’s. And unlike Singlestack, the guys swinging Major guns have extra rounds onhand in case they need a makeup. Those two factors permit an agression ability that is very difficult to overcome when competing against those guys with a 9mm gun.

@CTJer relax and shoot it like any other stage. That’s your problem right there.

Definitely want to run something that has the optic recessed as deeply into the slide as possible. I own a Walther Q5 match, but have a standard PPQ off for surgery right now: you can get the dot down much closer to where you’re used to looking for irons if you mill it directly into the slide without adapter plates.

If you like the gun without a safety, just chop the shaft off flush. I was happy with the factory ambi safety, so I never messed with them.

If you take 0.2 off your draw and 0.3 off your reload that’s a half second, and on a 6 second stage that is huge for your hit factor. And it didn’t involve any attempt to “shoot faster” and wind up dropping more points. Gunhandling skills are possibly the most important things to hone for classifiers.

The 2.5MOA is an amazing optic. That seems tiny, and easy to lose. But the dot is so damn bright that’s never an issue. Crank up and it flares big and bold. Stop it down a setting or two for precise distance stages.

It is not unheard of for someone to fill the battery compartment with lead shot and run with it in Limited where that’s legal. This was especially common before the SJC frame weight came out.

Slowpoke. My 125s do 137PF (1,100ish FPS) out of my production gun. Out of a PCC they’re around 1,200.

If you want to buy a competitive gun that will need zero tuning, JP is the time-proven front runner. For most of us, we enjoyed the building process as much as we enjoy shooting it.

Agreed, althogh I’d order them #3, then #1, then #2... although the chosen topic of the two Ben’s can mix it up some. And I’d add Firearms Nation - but only when Arik has someone on that I care about.

Nifty. No need for a handguard either. I’m sure that was no accident.

Nope. It happens. Prima V did the same thing as soon as it got popular on here. I would never advise someone to switch to a new lot # of their favorite powder and head to Nationals without verifying their velocity over a Chrono first.

No you haven’t. I sent you something obnoxious just to check. ?

I just talked to Zack. He’s noncommittal on whether this is a serious problem or not, and how bad, and at what round count. Mostly they’re off the wave spring because he and Max are testing a prototype of something else right now, which I probsbly shouldn’t mention. Don’t run and ditch your wave springs just because the internet told you to. Hell, they’re 5 for $12 via Amazon prime. I can afford to swap it out whenever it’s needed. Shoot what works in your gun through testing. Not what some guy says is cool.

Spray a rag. Scrub with the rag. Don’t spray the slide directly. Easy to keep it off of fiber optic front light pipes and red dot optics that way.

@Startingover then wrap a 4.6oz brigand arms handguard around it, find a $$$ muzzle device, and you’d have $750 into your PCC... just in the parts ahead of the barrel nut! I have about $500 in my rifle from that point forward, soooo I should probably stop talking now.

I run 140-143ish PF 124s through mine. I like it’s fast and flat handling much more than I did at 130pf, or the 147s I tried. The comp on my gun does work - I’ve shot it with and without it and filmed the different. On this much barrel, it’s only going to flatten out the last 5 to 10% of the dot bounce. It’s a small little tap... but it’s there. And as I’ve said in other posts, my gun is ultralight out front. That lack of stability would be bad in a long range rifle, but in this case I theorize that it makes it easier for the comp to push the muzzle around than a standard weight barrel and handguard.

A 124 blue can probably be loaded to 1.120 or 1.125ish with the factory chamber. The 124 Acme can probably be loaded even longer - their new mold profile is supposed to be REALLY short-chamber friendly.

I love the circle-dot reticle. Max Leograndis runs the dot only, as do most others. If you read the manual, you can take the Holosun out of auto mode and manually set your brightness. Perhaps that’s why I’ve never had the brightness issue - I run mine a few clicks short of full power in the brightest sun and don’t need any electrical tape. I never tried it in Auto at all. The Holosun has the crispest reticle on anything I’ve ever tried in an optic like this - the EOTech was blurry and crap by comparison. If you saw dot and circle blurring, that was an exposure-compensation or focus issue with the video camera.

He’s probably loading Major 9 for an Open gun.

The ordinary fullsize PPQ is basically a Glock 19 with a bit more barrel. The ”fullsize” PPQ and Q5 have a relatively short grip. Cannot recommend highly enough. Even better ergonomics and trigger than a 19 in the same package, offen with a lower price tag. I have a PPS for the times when I’d otherwise want a PPQ SC for the shorter grip. That’s a *fantastic* gun. I hated my shield for its ergonomics, whereas when I shot the PPS in Limited Minor I actually had a stage win in Limited with it! Really shootable.

Don’tsqueeze your second shot off without a sight picture. You’re shooting two shots at each target as quickly as the veterans are going. You don’t have sights for shot 2, and it goes wild. Talk with someone good on your squad about this at the next match. With a good grip and good trigger control you can shoot very fast and have the sights back in time. You’re new. You don’t have that. You need to do what they do: wait until the front sight comes back and shoot when you see it in the A. That means you’ll shoot half as fast as they do. Thinking “slow down” won’t help you. Thinking “see the sights. Squeeze. See the sights. Squeeze.” will definitely help you.

What kind of handguard are you running? Nothing on my gun is fancy lightweIght stuff except for the $300 4.6oz carbon fiber handguard... and the barrel that was cut down to 14” (to hit 16.25” with my comp) and also thinned to “pencil” profile on a lathe. The gun is 6lb 0.5oz and I like it how it is.

Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop a loaded round in and make sure it falls in freely. Try to spin it. If it doesn’t rotate easily the bullet is catching in the rifling and your leade is too short for that bullet. You can either shorten your ammo or get the barrel reamed. You’ll still have problems at 1.140”. Most loads in a stock Tanfo end up being 1.090” to 1,110” with fat, round nose coated bullets, but the profile of your bullet determines how long you can get away with - they vary wildly. Get the barrel reamed. You can load at 1.150” with most bullets all day long.

It has to be defined by the ATF as a rifle. For example, pay the tax stamp and build an SBR such as an AR-15 with a 7” barrel and an honest-to-god stock? Legal in USPSA. An AR-15 pistol with a 7” barrel an an adjustable, shoulder-able pistol brace is not a rifle. Not legal in USPSA.