MemphisMechanic

@RAP Sport Pistol is where I’m going when I burn through the rest of my Unobtanium V and need to restock.

That’s an important thing to learn; if I’m targeting a window of 1.120” to 1.130” OAL (which is about the precision my XL650 gives with bulk coated bullets) I know exactly what OAL to set a single round to, so that I can fill the shellplate and begin cranking out ammo that is within my tolerance range. I’d also be willing to bet you’ll learn OAL isn’t terribly sensitive with minor 9mm loads until it gets really short (1.080” vs 1.195” might show a velocity difference.) However. Multiple times, multiple powders, I have shortened a load from 1.150” all the way to 1.115” for a gun with a short chamber, and found an increase in velocity that ranges from slight, to none. I’d be more worried about the accuracy issues you might find with ammo OALS wandering around by huge amounts than I would worry someone might blow up their gun with it. (9MM Major, hot defensive loads, and really short loads need not apply to this discussion.)

Same here. That explains it. I top my hopper off each time I walk up to the press, and never empty it.

Not in a Dillon powder measure. More than once I’ve had standard deviations from it around 5 or 6. Sometimes half of that or less - it’s been shockingly great.

Start here: Watch videos 1 through 4. Install a front sight, guide rod, single piece sear, and $20 worth of springs. Done.

They all fail every 5,000-10,000 rounds of hard frequent use from what I’ve seen. NOTE: exclusively talking about slide-ride applications. Hwansik Kim has 3 DPPs and training nonstop he can’t keep more than 1 running at any given point. There’s a really frank talk about this at the beinning of the newest Practical Shooting After Dark podcast (Ben Stoeger’s thing.) Others have similar experiences with RTS2s and every other dot out there. Nothing large and bright enough to be competitive is bulletproof. Just like competing hard in any kind of sport, you need spares of some equipment, or you accept that it’ll die at some point and cost you the race. If I begin shooting CO at majors, I’ll buy a spare dot.

Man. I’ve run Production exclusively since 2008. I get it. I just finished my CO build (a PPQ w/ DPP milled in as low as possible) and I have to say... this is going to make me a much more dangerous production shooter in a year. The dot is right where the sights used to be, unlike my optics-ready Q5 with the dot on top of the slide. Almost no learning curve. I’m learning all kinds of things about my grip, trigger control at speed, and my footwork shooting on-the-move that a decade of Production wasn’t showing me nearly as obviously. For example; when shooting agressively on the move in Production you’ll know if you got low and smooth enough, from difficulty steadying the front post in the rear notch. But with it always in motion it’s hard to say exactly how far offcenter the sights are gyrating. Not in carry optics. With a dot, you see the wobble zone go from offtarget on each side to tightly wiggling around in the A-zone when you bend your knees and get low and smooth. Plus, 24 rounds at the beep really is fun and lets you focus entirely on getting hits and moving hard.

In an indoor airconditioned room mine always stays full of primers and powder. When it was in the garage I emptied it after each use, unless I knew I’d load more within 2-3 days.

1) The bullet isn’t seated by the tip of its nose where you’re measuring it. It’s seated by the die using the ogive of the bullet, so tiny variations in coating thickness or bullet contour will show up as length variations. 2) Yes, mixed brass. Big factor. This is how I’d proceed: Assuming 1.150 is the longest your ammo can be to plunk & spin, run your seating die in to achieve that. In other words, bring it down until your various OALs are now 1.370” to 1.150”. Take that ammo to the range. Does it make the PF you want to make? Shoot groups with it. Is it accurate enough for your needs? If so, proceed with a life of wandering OALs and cheap mixed brass... and just go shoot. My experience has been that more precise OALs and sorted headstamps result in consistent lengths, but that extra time doesn’t show up in more accuracy from a handgun fired at 20-25 yds. It isn’t worth the effort since you can almost certainly work up ammo good for 2” groups at 25yd with those wandering OALs.

I believe that they cast frames in the morning before their two hour lunch break. In the afternoon, the rough castings are each handed to a different worker who probably had half a bottle of wine at lunch. This worker finishes that frame to their personal satisfaction. By hand. With a dremel tool.

They’re Italian. Ferrari and Lamborghini are notorious for fit & finish issues in ultra high end supercars. Tanfo is just applying this mindset to guns.

I polished all of the metal on metal surfaces, both sides. Broke the gun down to each individual part and did the sear, the leg that activates it, and the sides of the housing too.

Weird. Polishing my Q5 took 1/4 pound off the pull but more importantly, made it slick and smooth. Haven’t heard of this one before.

Of course you can short stroke it. I do. It’s advantageous. But in a carbine tube with the longer 5.56-style bolt, you are required to short stroke by default if you run anything like the Blitzkrieg buffer meant for a conventional blowback AR9. Running the A5 tube gives you more length to play with spacers AND wave spring and whatever else you choose.

It’s noticeable. The primary benefit so far has been that it’s gentler on triggers... and it does not use the AR9 style firing pin which is failing frequently in every other application. JP included. Be aware that your bolt is longer, and the Guard can’t use buffers like the Blitzkrieg designed for the AR9 with having a super short stroke. Doing it over, I’d run an A5 buffer tube. You can always add spacers to shorten the length, but you can’t add length to a conventional carbine tube.

I use ordinary black slow cure JB weld and this for grit: Fundamental Rockhound Products: 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JTJG3GI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf It’s about the same grit you get with Talon sandpaper grips, just much more durable. I remove the factory texture from everything I’ve masked off for maximum adhesion and to prevent the gun from getting 1/8” thicker due to width of epoxy and grit. Peel the masking tape off as soon as the epoxy is thick enough to not run. Don’t wait until after it fully cures! Winds up looking like this: (Tap the photo below to open the page then swipe to the third image.)

@JsK you’ll need some sort of stop to prevent Glock mags from overinserting since you won’t be running an ejector in the lower. Any upper will work so long as you open up the ejection port. My gun feeds from Colt mags, which took a lot more work to get flawless reliability from; CMMG never intended the Guard to feed from those mags.

Exposed lead base FMJs will still build gunk up in your comp that has to be chipped out like concrete. It happens much slower than with coated but it does happen. I can wipe it clean with a rag after 500 rounds of plated Everglades 124s. Just a little powder residue. The same cleainess advantage is there with handguns, it just doesn’t matter as much unless they’re compensated.

PatriotDefense has a lightweight guide rod that’ll let you run any grips you want and still make weight. The LP is heavy enough that metal grips in place of factory wood may otherwise tip you over the limit. Slap an Xtreme fiber optic front sight into it. Patriot Defense lightened sear and trigger springs, and their firing pin return spring. Run a 10lb recoil spring to start. 15.5 lb hammer spring. Polish the hell out of the iternals the way I outline in the four part “tanfoglio tuning” video series on YouTube. This gun already has a single-piece sear so it won’t need that. Also, the Limited Pro was discontinued by EAA last year and they are HARD to find in 9mm. If you see one, grab it instantly. IFG is close (within a couple months) of re-releasing the Limited Pro to the US Market.

I mean. I happen to know a guy who has a 650 in the classifieds right now. My experience on a 500 has been that it’s horiffically slow. I bought my 650 new and learned to load on it. It’s my baseline. Going over to a friend’s house and messing around with his 550? Not a fan at all. If you’re loading 500+ rounds in a sitting, 650 or better is the only way to go.

This. If you can reach the trigger comfortably in DA, leave the gun alone and shoot it. Lots.

That’s about $300 worth of crab trap from Brigand arms. Including the barrel nut, it’s just over a quarter of a pound. Between that and having the barrel turned down... now I pick up everyone else’s rifle and think it’s a heavy pig up front. ?

If you’re trying to get from A to B, then back to A for an array of targets you realize you forgot, and the RO gets caught in the way? Anything that affects your time should be grounds for a reshoot. I’ve had a ‘timer holder’ quasi-RO place his hand on my shoulder as he said “if finished” on a stage where I was quite obviously done with a very solid run, and while it’s not ideal, I didn’t have a huge problem with it.

@B_RAD true. And I’m done looking for the magic super soft powder. Softness just doesn’t matter all that much.

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