MemphisMechanic

It’s the ‘shooting area’ Or ‘from within the fault lines’ I’ve never seen “free fire zone” before this thread. That’s an oddity your locals are using.

Yes exactly. If your buddy tries to tape a target - which previously got you a reshoot - he’s only giving you a couple of mikes now. They’re closing a potential cheating loophole. If the RO’s mess up, you still get that reshoot because your cheating buddy system was obviously not involved. Make sense to everyone now? EDIT: 1. Yes. I have seen this flagrantly done. In person. The ROs just couldn’t prove it was malicious since we can’t read minds. 2. And this is far from the first time a sport has had to punish the vast majority (no more reshoots for honest pasting errors) due to the actions of one rotten apple.

@JAFO and @IHAVEGAS because... cheaters. It is not rare for the shooter’s buddy to preamturely paste a target when he sees the run went horribly. They forgot an entire array or the gun double-fed? Time to slide in, tape a target, exit stage left, and deny all knowledge. Presto! The shooter gets a reshoot. There will no longer be any incentive to do this. In fact, you and your friends will now be vigilant to ensure no one tapes unscored targets after each others runs.

Same here. I’d head to other matches for certain.

Not at all.

Revisiting this now post now that it’s not late at night: 11 cents is astronomical. Coated runs 6 cents and change, plated around 7something and good JHPs from a place like PD are 8 to 9. Tops. That’s why no one shoots HAPs, although I would consider it at a big major match in some accuracy intensive discipline like Binachi. Blues are .355” and most other coated bullets are .356 so if you want to go up in size, try a brand like black bullets intl or ACME. Blues are the best bang for the buck, so if they shoot well? Run them! Remember to load with no crimp - just barely return the case walls to being straight.

But very fortunate for anyone with a load of CZ mags lying around.

That’s because (1)it became focused on guns with comps, in which coated bullets make a horrific mess. and (2) because 80% of the discussions in this forum are about coated bullets. We all use them, load them, and love them. Run through the search and you’ll get a phone book.

@andrewt556 if it’s on your collarbone you’re in the wrong spot. Tail of the stock lands on your chest, not bone.

@TonytheTiger Just grab your gun and mount it normally without thinking. Then stand upright but leave the buttstock against your body. Is it under the jaw on that side, or over in your shoulder pocket? If you put the rifle out in your shoulder pocket it’ll tend to rotate your body outward with recoil as that shoulder is pushed back - dot will lift up and to your strong side. If you were able to mount the stock dead center in your chest, your dot movement would be (theortically) completely vertical. It’s equally important to DRIVE the chest and offhand into each other - if you want the gun to shoot flat, clamp it in place at both ends. Don’t let it wiggle at all.

What he said. Beautiful! Your extra long comp looks balanced on this gun

At least it doesn’t have the word WITNESS on it a foot high. I hate that stupid label. I don’t want a tanfoglio to have EAA or Witness on it anywhere. Thanks.

Boom.

Because he’s always been able to. However in the past it was used to clarify poor wording of an existing rule or the like. Making an end-run around the BOD having to be involved in new Production hammer rules or similar? That’s a thing that began in the past few years.

Someone mentioned it when I was starting out and saved me $100. Happy to pay it forward.

You don’t have to hold the gun as tightly with the strong hand as you do with a handgun. Since you can split faster with a rifle and still hit things, it’s helpful to prevent trigger freeze. Mount the gun on your pec below the eye and then bring your head down the stock. Don’t mount the gun conventionally in your shoulder pocket and lay your head over 45 degrees onto the stock. Grip hard on the handguard and drive the gun back into your shoulder. Additionally, learn to pull the stock up over your shoulder when moving so the rifle can be level, instead of keeping the stock in front and dipping the muzzle down toward the ground in an arc around walls. The Max Leograndis videos linked above will show this very clearly.

I run a 5.0oz kynshot buffer intended for a .308 carbine in my Guard. It works well in a carbine length tube. Paired with the red sprinco spring it’s damn flat. Tuning the compensator to kill the remaining muzzle rise really got the gun sorted out nicely. I do agree with @Acer2428 on the rest however: the Guard isn’t any flatter or faster than a blowback gun. But then, neither is an MPX. The primary benefit to the Guard so far seems to be something most aren’t bringing up; it’s insanely reliable. Firing pins and trigger groups are practically in the “consumable parts - stock spares!” category for blowback guns. The Guard’s 5.56 style firing pin so far hasn’t had a single breakage that I’m aware of. The slower bolt speed is likely kinder to trigger groups as well. But I’ve thus far stuck to PCC-proof triggers anyway (a KE Arms SLT and a JP) so I can’t verify that.

Fully agree. If a stage designer is too dim to figure out how to position targets in a way that makes looping outside the shooting area slower, rather than faster... I probably don’t want to shoot his stages anyway. Or hell, just put some barrels or a wall in the place that makes sense to cut through, and skip threatening shooters if they do what the book says they can.

Please describe what happened so that others won’t make the same mistake.

If you speak fluent American, why did absolutely no one understand your convoluted first post until they had asked a full page of questions? That’s a sign that you explained things horribly. A better version: ”We had two targets on the same stand, one vertically above the other. The targets overlapped, and a shot broke the perforation on the lower head box. Does he also get credit for the hit on the target behind it?”

For the third time; in two different handguns that I’ve owned, I consistently shot tighter groups with PDs than I did with MGs. For many people the reverse is probably true. In all cases, the difference is small. Our friend with the TruBor just backed me up on this one. I’m not stating anything I didn’t personally observe on a target downrange, several dozen times over. You seem inclined to dismiss this for whatever reason. Montana Golds are great. Precision Deltas are great. Several other brands are also really good. Find something your gun shoots straight, and load it.

FYI the Guard barrel is short. Quite short. Firtunately I already had a carbide reamer on the way for my Walthers. Now I can go 1.160”+ in anything I own. Not super relevant since it isnt a drop in for a blowback gun. But sharing the info anyway.

Softness: MPX > Guard > Blowback 9’s. My gun is guard based, and quite dramatically softer than everyblowback gun I’ve ever fired. That said, I don’t find softness nearly as important as flatness. But it’s a nice fringe benefit.

That sounds fairly realistic to me. At this point, most of us then make the decision based on who is local, or who is cheaper.

You just like to argue. I’m the one making sense here and you know it. Each barrel prefers a certain bullet, powder, OAL, and velocity combination to others. The next serial number down the line won’t have exactly the same preference. This is why load development for your unique firearm is necessary 100% of the time. In two of my guns, that led me to discover that PDs were more accurate in a back to back test than a MG. Eventually, I found a coated bullet they shot just as straight, and jumped on the nonjacketed cost savings. I’m not sure why you have such an obsession with MG bullets. They’re a great choice, but that doesn’t mean they’ll be the most accurate projectile out of every gun made.