MemphisMechanic

Okay. The length in load data is a guide. In the competition world we generally load as long as we can get away with - especialy for your doublestack 2011 because many of them are VASTLY more reliable with longer ammo. Your guide isnt the book. It’s plunk and spin; load different length dummy rounds until you are long enough that it won’t spin freely when the round is plunked in the barrel. That means your bullet is contacting the rifling, which we don’t want. I find my max OAL for a given bullet and barrel (you need check it uniquely for every gun and every bullet shape) then subtract .005” to ensure reliable feeding. If a 147gr flat point won’t drop into a 9mm barrel once it gets to 1.155” .... I make sure all of my rounds come off the press under 1.150” so that I (literally) have some wiggle room. Find your desired OAL that way, then load to the minimum charge weight in the book, and work your way up to desired PF with a chronograph. This almost always results in you loading significantly longer that book value, which only increases your safety margin by lowering chamber pressure.

I quit watching three seconds in when you cowtowed to the whiny Youtube guntard’s desires and showed us an empty gun. On to the next video... where the videographer respects his viewers enough to know they’re going to unload guns before handling them without needing to be show it in every dang video. Like people with brains, and common sense, who don’t need a disclaimer and trigger warning for everything.

@45 Raven MGs jacket alloy is harder, so a little bit more gas gets by before it seals tightly to the bore. The same velocity difference is seem in production minor loads, where 1.110” vs 1.130” often has no appreciable velocity difference

Two guys with triangle DPPs have switched to the 2.5 dot after shooting mine. Fully turned up, it looks like a 6-8 even on a bright day. Turn it down a notch or two, and it’s super precise for a stage full of tiny distant things.

@jim m

$16 for a gallon of acetone at home depot. I use it when cleaning every single drop of oil and gunk off of a gun before cerakoting because it’s what Cerakote recommends. (Brake cleaner is roughly 90% acetone fyi) I’ve since used an acetone soak to clean guns - just for deep detail cleanings. Works great, cheap. Dump the parts in for 15-30 minutes after cleaning it as best you can manually. Warning: it’ll destroy the fiber in your front sight, but you should have spare material onhand for that, and replace it 1 or 2 times a year anyway.

I got it from 1911luvr here on the forums, his machinist makes them in carbide. Had to turn .001” off the pilot with a diamond lap in order to get it to fit into polygonally rifled barrels, and now it works great!

Gotcha! I went the opposite route and bought the badass reamer so I don’t have the bulged cases that happen when shoving a long 147 back into well used brass. Both routes work.

If you need one cut, I can do it, though. Don’t mind helping guys out.

A manson in a Glock barrel? Good luck. They’re high speed seel. The barrel chews them down like crazy; you’ll ruin it in one use. Ask me exactly how I know. HSS is great for CZ/Tanfo/1911 barrels. Not for guns with hardened ones. I have a carbide one now which cuts hardened Glock/M&P/Walther barrels like butter. You need carbide. Happy to cut yours on the cheap if you’d like. But a HSS reamer isn’t the right tool for the job. Don’t wsnt you to waste $50 like I did.

Radian Raptor. Will be installing one on all of my future builds.

You’ll stop doing this soon. Not only does it make the load awkward, it gives you no time to reestablish a proper offhand grip. Absolutely no one at the top level in the game changes mags like that, and there’s a reason why.

@zen_grasshopper given any thought to having the barrels throated to take ammo loaded to a more “normal” length? I cut all of my guns (tanfo, M&P, Walther) to take “difficult” bullet profiles out to 1.150 or so. In each of them the accuracy sweet spot has still turned out to be around 1.115 to 1.130” and that means I never have an ammo-length related stoppage. (The tricky part was finding a carbide reamer that’ll cut hardened conventional & polygonal rifled barrels. Now I can throat any gun made. )

@regor the fundamentals of handgun shooting include grip, stance, sight alignment, sight alinment, and trigger control. Additionally you’re expected to have superb gunhandling. Draws and reloads. At high speed. Field courses mix those in with other skills so deficiences are more easily masked. But the core reason people are stuck in D/C/B class is because of a weak mental game and deficient fundamentals. If we make those things strengths through practice at home, we improve in classification. If we don’t? We do not. (Sidenote? Show me a guy who shoots above 75% in classifiers consistently, and I’ll show you a guy who also runs circles around B class and below in the rest of your match.)

Find an M class local and learn proper techniques to draw, grip, and reload your gun. How to rapidly transition to the next target. How to pull the trigger halfway straight. Then go home, and... Dryfire twice a week for 15 minutes. You cannot help but end up in B class.

@IHAVEGAS my PCC is set up much like an open gun. Short stroked. Light, fast action. I run a somewhat hot 124 at around 145pf, because the gun shoots flatter. That also means my bullet is just barely supersonic, in addition to a comp that kicks a lot of gas to the side. Guess who has never had a reshoot for last shot issues? (A lot of guys try to run them like big production guns. Sluggish 147s, and light buffer springs. I don’t understand why. It shoots soft, but every single one I’ve shot is back on target much slower than mine.)

Countless posts trying to figure out “how to make a PCC shoot more softly” give lie to your attempt to classify them as having worthwhile advice. Flatness matters. Softness doesn’t.

The national champion, the #2 guy, and another PCCer who won at least three majors this year? All of them care about compensator design and tuning. I don’t care what “2nd PCC B-class at his local match” has to say about the importance of compensators, and those are the guys waxing philosophical in this forum all day long. No comps don’t do much in 9mm rifles. But a litle extra stabilization of the gun goes a long way when everything else has been optimized.

Appendix carrying a Glock with a bunch of widgets and a Hyve or TTI extended basepad is the current fad in the tacticool Instagram world. No. This post is not a joke.

Softness is irrelevant to winning. I’m a grown man shooting a handgun off my shoulder. Give me a hard punch to the shoulder, but the ability to rip a .14 split off at 15 yards and have the holes tightly inside the A because the gun is dead flat? I’m down. That’s what I did. A lot of what we do in PCC is like Open; making the gun hit you quite a bit harder, but it cycles flatter. Short-stroking them is a good example of this.

It made a sublte yet significant difference on mine: Look at the .308 hyrdo buffer and red spring: with and without a comp. It is night and day. Afterward I slowly enlarged the ports with a drill until the rifle shot totally flat. Once I got the gun dialed in, I shot it one last time without a comp before chopping the barrel down to 14” and doing a pin & weld. The muzzle rise came right back. It’s doing something to kill that last little bit of muzzle rise.

Steel Surfire comp on mine, opened up the ports until the gun shot flat. Cheap. Durable. The rest of my front end is already crazy light. Don’t notice the weight at all.

As others have said, it’s just common sense gunhandling: if a friend wants to shoot my (clearly still unloaded) firearm at the end of a USPSA match, I’m going to draw it , lock the slide back, and present it to him so that he can get a proper grip on the gun from first contact. Same applies when setting it on a table for a match official.

Hold my beer. I’ve got this. Oh, you may want to order a spare disconnector. Just in case.