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beechnutbob

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    Gary Rollenhagen

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  1. Modified my 5x legion Flat trigger to be able to adjust forward travel after reset. I used the factory triggered and added a screw that will contact the FCU and stop the excess travel. The trigger looks like a MIM part and it is hardened. So going to need carbide cutters to do this. Pictures should explain what I did. You need a small milling machine but a good drill press and vice should also work as you are only using down load pressure. Need a 3/32 center cut end mill and 4-40 tap. Drill size for 4-40 is .089 and 3-32 is .092 so it will be better to use the end mill as the trigger is hard. When you start the hole from the back side of the trigger you are not starting on a flat surface so if you try to use a drill it will just push off. Use cutting oil and go easy when tapping the hole. It was not easy but results are good and I did not need to buy a 80 dollar trigger. Did ruin one end mill but that was only 8.00I figured the worse that could happen was I would have a trigger with a partial hole or broken end-mill stuck in it but it would be in the recess in the back of the trigger so what, the gun would still function. The spring will keep tension on the screw so it will not move once set. 300 rounds so far so good
  2. If no attempt was made to point firearm at a specific target, as to make up a shot and the shooter was attempting to unload the firearm then off the Land of DQ. That would have been my call.
  3. Are you running spaces in the mags? I have two guns that don’t need spacers but one that will not feed the top couple of rounds if spacers are not installed. Now all mags have spacers and all guns feed 100% ola 1.16 with Delta Precision 124 JHP
  4. I made one of the free Idaho one and it works but there are better one’s. Will post picture later this week as they are at our club.
  5. Maybe this will be resolved if there is ever a ruling in it. For myself I will block targets if they can be seen past the 180 when setting up stages
  6. Official word from Troy M They need to be hidden from the point that a competitor would break the 180 to shoot at them. So so if you can see them past the 180 they need to be blocked with something.
  7. Official word from Troy M They need to be hidden from the point that a competitor would break the 180 to shoot at them. So so if you can see them past the 180 they need to be blocked with something.
  8. Was helping set up stages at local match and had a couple of targets that were available to shoot while advancing forward and if you went to far forward and shot them you could break the 180. Was told that there needed to be a wall or something to block them so they could not be seen past 180. It was a rule. I know it is good practice to make courses so breaking the 180 is not possible but I looked in the rule book and can’t find any rule stating targets must not be able to be seen if they are past 180. If there is that rule what is the number.
  9. Who makes an XDM left hand holster for the 5.25 pistol? I see Fobus has one but it cants the gum forward.
  10. If it is not disappearing then 25% of the A zone must be visible not just s slice
  11. Pickup up one in pieces, got it working but don’t know how it fastens to a 650 case feeder. There are three brackets for hanging it off the case feeder but can’t figure out where they go. Anybody got one they could send a picture of. All info on the web has been taken down as they had to discontinue offering them
  12. Just an FYI. Was working up load for new open gun. Precision Delta 124 JHP we’re running around 60 FPS faster than 124 CMJ Montana Golds from the same gun and same powder charge. No difference in accuracy.
  13. There are some 2011 sliderackers on EBay and any gunsmith with a mill and a dovetail cutter should be able to fit it.
  14. It appears t9and10 are available from the doorway. Shoot p1 move left then advance to doorway. Guessing door swings in. Gun up high left or right depending on timing of the targets. Take at rest swinger after the trap and turner are shot.
  15. I have a mill and I build my own for around 1500. If something breaks I order what ever broke and fix it. So far simple things, ejector, reverse plug. Takes about 40 hours and thats with a manual mill with DRO.
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