MemphisMechanic

This is the one and only time I’m happy to see a boring and stale “port with 4 targets, port with 4 targets, repeat” kind of stage. I think it should be expected of the match to make the second stage something extraordinarily simple to program if they expect shooters to run them back to back. Whether it’s a speed shoot, or a 30 round field course... make it straightforward.

I’ve never seen someone get away with a foot fault when they had both feet out of bounds before. Besitiful gun. She’ll serve you well given how little wear everything has seen!

@IVC the key is to choose the cleat at your local store with the softest lugs on the sole. (The worst surface for a hard cleat is wet wood or similar. You know, like a fault line.) My U.A. cleats grip wood and concrete and the like, just like a pair of normal running shoes would. Aside from a rather firm insole that needs upgraded for all-day comfort, they’re good. Great traction on every surface.

There’s a noticeable increase in traction when going from Salomon/Innov8 trail shoes to a cleat (with softer rubber spikes) when running on gravel. I was surprised.

I get 53 in the mag I just welded up on Thursady! But it does have minor clearance problems with the 170mm gauge. (Haven’t even sanded down the welds on it yet. Just wrapped it with electrical tape and went to test-fire.) (If anyone has a pair of K9 mag bodies and a mag gauge, I wouldn’t mind trying my hand at welding them together for you.)

A CCI primer is seated fully at .004”-.006” below flush. A winchester you can get to .007-.008” driving them down to .010” will certainly dimple them but they tend to run fine. CCI primers are physically taller than many others: look at the height of 100 of them stacked in a primer tube. The ideal press to load for light hammer springs is a 1050, with it’s swaging station and mechnaically adjustable seating depth. I run CCI’s .004”-.005” below flush and my (fullpower sprung) striker guns and PCCs never have light strikes. Ever. But they hit much harder than hammers do in DA. The worst offender is actually the Dillon 650. The seating depth is not adjustable and high primers are frequently common. Remember, fully seated is .004” below flush with every brand of small primer. We come into the CZ/Tanfo world having loaded for glocks and M&Ps... thinking “a flush primer is fully seated.” A flush primer is a high primer.

The best way to simplify this is to get entirely set in your forward, agressive shooting position. Completely ready to fire a fast string of shots. Then holster the gun moving nothing but your arms.. place hands at sides... and draw. Nothing moves except for your arms. You aren’t bending your knees at the beep to get low, leaning forward, and bringing your head down. This is competition shooting; you can have all of that done before the beep. (Except for bringing your head down; make it a point to keep your head up and bring the sights to your eyes.)

Singlestack pocket subgun... and you’re looking for increased accuracy beyond 10-15 yards? ...Huh.

Deltapoint pro 2.5 MOA For mags, a TTI +5 extension with a Grams spring and follower for the P320 will get you 23 rounds in the mags, although they won’t lock open when empty.

If all you’re going to cut are Shadows, Tanfos, and 1911 barrels an ordinary Clymer reamer from Brownells will work just fine. If you want to cut things with hardened barrels? Walthers, m&Ps, P-series CZs, Glocks... you need to go carbide. @1911luvr had a couple made a while back. He may still have one.

That’s length of handle. Not position of travel. You do have to mount a 1050 rather close to the edge of your bench compared to your old strong mount. Three things you will love about the 1050 (I just switched from 650 after 8 yrs on one)... 1. Finally the priming gods smile on you. It keeps presenting the same primer until you use it. No more live ones to deal with when you pitch a case after sizing. It’ll continue to keep the same primer ready for dozens of handle strokes until a case arrives to accept it. 2. Swaging and a mechanical primer depth adjustment. It just seats 9mm primers flawlessly. Every time. Regardless of brand of brass or primer. I haven’t crushed or had one hang up yet. 3. Leverage. For handgun, run the handle in the shortest position. It feels like you have twice the mechanical adavantage: 500 rounds does much less wear on your elbow. You also prime at the same end of stroke as sizing, so you’re doing 50% less hard forcing of the handle. I took a 650 on the strong mount off my comfortable height bench and bolted 1050 directly to it. The height is still pretty much perfect.

A range of .009” or so was always unavoidable for me with factory toolhead and shellplate. Shorten it up so your long ones are short enough to chamber, make sure your pressures are good, and run with it.

Tell us what’s in it. A lot of parts I don’t recognize.

It’s far more common on the 650 than a 1050. If you didn’t manage to cook one off on the 650 (I never did, either) then you’ll probably be just fine.

I like red personally

It’s the flattest-shooting combination I have tried in my rifle. I run a Guard so the action isn’t direct blowback and the bolt is much lighter. I run a wave spring, then a single quarter, then a 5oz hydraulic buffer for a .308, then a Sprinco red spring.

I like roughly 6 to 8 inches of overlap. I’d go down to a 38. That’s what I run as a man who wears waist size 34 pants.

Take the gripforce off. They push you hand down lower on the gun by filling in the crucial area at the top of the beavertail. This is a bad thing.

If you stick to “baby” mags that only hold 26-28 rounds.

My old bench was that weight. Frame was 4x4s with huge diagonal bracing. Bolting it to the wall was a huge improvement.

An SBR has always been legal. The firearm must be some form of rifle in pcc. An AR Pistol is not and has never been. There’s the simple version.

You clearly haven’t seen me attempt grouped distance shooting with any platform. That’s exceptional considering the loose nut behind the wheel. (And don’t forget, I called the three bottom shots low. That was all me. I suppose I could have taped them up and posted the upper group like a lot of guys probably would for the internet... but this is what I actually shot.)

Why do you and IDescribe want to slowly fill his compensator with lead off the exposed base of an FMJ bullet? Why do you hate him? What did he ever do to you? Yes you will. I get it; I talked trash about plated bullets for years too. Turns out, you just have to buy a better plated bullet than Berrys & Extreme... and tune your load to your barrel. This is 8 shots. Not five. I have full faith that if I’d done my part I wouldn’t have pulled the bottom three shots low:

It’s bad math. The dot is flatter and more stable period with a heavier spring. I do not know anyone who has done any amount of testing and tuning... who isn’t running a sprinco red or a .308 csrbine spring.

He did. They cost a good bit extra, but I wanted to give it a try. A total experiment. The gun is very snappy with such a short slide, and being so light. Shooting it next to a CO-equipped X5 it feels like it has twice as much recoil. But my dot is back faster. As long as you grip like a caveman, she’s flat and fast: