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Found 28 results

  1. I bought a used 2011 and I am trying to find a 9mm barrel but nothing looks quite the same. link to the pictures because I can't post them due to the size limit. https://imgur.com/a/8HFXGFl
  2. Anyone know where I can get one?
  3. Hey Folks, not sure if this should be here or the glock section. Long story short, I had a out of battery discharge on my Glock 34 gen 3 last week. Gun mostly survived, except the trigger and mag release broke, and my extractor shot out and was lost. I had a local shop check it out, and everything looks straight. I figured i would replace the barrel as it takes the brunt of the force (it looks fine) just to be on the safe side. I ordered a Double diamond barrel from the glock store and it arrived today. I grabbed a few of my reloads and tried to plunk test them, and they all failed. I have 2 loads and they both failed. 1: 125g RN Blue bullets 3.5 TG with OAL of 1.125 2: 127g RN Blue Bullets 3.1 TG with OAL of 1.135 using my Hornady LNL AP i do get some variance, but non of the rounds were over 1.142 and I have a few thousand of each so i would prefer to not have to break them all down. Neither of these fit. I grabbed the press and worked out the Max oal to be 1.120. That seams pretty short as the max allowable, and given human and mechanical variations, i assume i would have to load to a max of 1.175 or so I chatted with GS but they were unsure of the max OAL for that barrel and offerered to send me a replacement to see if that's any better. Has anyone else had this issue? Is this and issue? I am hoping the replacement barrel accepts my reloads. If it doesn't do you have any suggestions, can i load that short? How much would i have to adjust my load. Thank you for the help
  4. The slide on my primary Limited gun has developed a crack of sorts. Since the slide is finished with Cerakote Elite and a Gun Candy top coat, I'm not sure if the crack is in the finish or in the slide itself. I can't see or feel (using cleaning picks, for instance) the crack on the inside of the slide or in slide wall/ejection port. Is there a way to tell if the slide is cracked/cracking or if this is limited to the finish? If the slide is cracking, is it safe to continue to shoot it? How many 170 PF rounds could you put through a slide that is cracking? Also, if it is cracking, what are my options? Can I replace just the slide? Do I need to replace the slide and barrel together? I've looked into barrels and have an idea of the fitting required for a bull barrel, but can't find a lot online about fitting a new slide to an existing frame. Most slide fitting info if for fitting a slide and frame to each other during initial building. If it matters, I would have to fit everything by hand - I don't have access to machining or milling equipment. I really like this pistol and can't afford to buy another one (unless I can find a used one for sale somewhere). With USPSA Nationals coming up in a couple of months, I'm trying to figure out what's up and what my options are...
  5. Not exactly sure how to ask this question. I guess it's a multi part question so lets see. First I'll say that I shoot Steel Challenge and USPSA. I have recently lightened my PCC by adding the CODA 13.5" carbon fiber hand guard and Smoke Composites C.F. stock. The gun feels amazing to me and as far as what I'm used to it's perfect.....or is it? Its current weight is 5lbs. 11.5oz. QC10 upper and lower(glock mag) Faxon 16" barrel(thread protector) Taccom extreme 9mm BCG(weight removed) .223 spring 8oz. buffer Elftmann AR10 trigger Holosun HS510C dot Total BCG/buffer weight is just under 20oz. I am considering going with the Taccom ULW barrel which would really lighten the gun overall. My concerns are: Will it be too light? As in, will it be too light to absorb recoil resulting in unwanted dot movement? Will the recoil be "different"? I keep hearing that the ULW barrel produces a different feeling all together. The good thing is that the ULW barrel is fairly inexpensive overall. I know I will have to alter my PCC loads with the much shorter barrel. I also shoot production with a CZ SP-01 so I have plenty of load data for it. Soooo....what's your feedback on the barrel and my situation? Thanks.
  6. hello everyone, plz take a look at the barrel. does it (finish) look strange to you? it´s a cz75 sp 01 shadow. maybe 500 rounds shot.
  7. Hi fellas, With a properly tuned adjustable gas block. a properly weighted captured buffer spring, a lightweight BCG, and a decent brake/comp, will I be able to tell a noticeable difference in perceived recoil between a Stretch 16 (intermediate gas) and a BA Hanson (or other similar mid-length gas) barrel? Thanks!
  8. I'm just learning about them, seems pretty unorthodox but could be promising. Seems to be a slim profile barrel sleeved with a proprietary resin for rigidity and to promote heat dispersion. Seems intriguing, especially since they offer a lifetime warranty on their barrels. If you shoot them out they send you a new one for free. If anyone has had dealing with their products or customer service I'd be interested in hearing about it. If you haven't heard about them you can find info here https://www.dracosbarrels.com/
  9. I quite recently built a new upper for my IPSC open rifle. The built was made by quality parts, including a Spuhr mount, Zeiss V8 1-8, JP handguard and a Criterion hybrid Barrel. I was looking forward to getting something new with a fresh barrel and good optics. ………..the thing works like a champ besides the fact that the package is too heavy for me. I don’t think it is particularly heavy, it is just too much for me. After I really blew some stages in a Level III match because of this I have decided to start over. Can someone point me in the right direction on what components to choose if you want to build something light, including scope and mount, that still can handle a 40 round stage? Thanks for all help
  10. I have a Gen 3 G34 with at least 60k rounds through it. Almost all of those rounds have been minor rounds. I'm now starting to see about 10% or more of my rounds tumble when I haven't cleaned my barrel for a couple thousand rounds or so (a recent development). - Never was a problem before. When I clean it, they stop tumbling for a bit. Before cleaning there isn't any noticeable buildup or burrs. I would think it could be my reload, but my son shoots the same ammo and quantity I do, on the same cleaning interval, in his Gen 4 G34 without this issue. Is it time to replace the barrel? How can I tell if the barrel is worn out? Thanks
  11. Has anyone tried a S&W Shield 9MM slide/barrel with their .40 S&W Shield frame? I've read the barrel works on the .40 slide but what about replacing the entire .40 slide with a 9MM slide?
  12. I have a couple questions about the CK arms open 2011's. Can someone tell me for sure: what weight and brand recoil spring comes in the hardcore and thunder open 2011's? (38 super in this case though I presume they use same springs in 9mm too) what weight and brand hammer spring in same? What brand firing pin spring (I believe this one is ismi) what brand leaf spring/sear spring? Finally does anyone know what twist rate the KKM barrels are? KKM state 'standard' is either 1:16 or 1:18 but they make a bunch of twist rates from 1:10 to 1:40... I'm hoping it's the 1:18 or even 1:24. The reason I ask is I've previously seen it stated they use all ISMI springs. I've also seen (I think it was on SSI) that they use wolf springs. I have a CK open in both hardcore and thunder. So far the harcore runs great though the hammer spring feels super heavy (not quite springfield 1911 heavy which are 28# but certainly much heavier than the 15lb or 17lb in my other 2011/1911's. it 'feels' to me like it's over 20lb). The recoil spring is harder to feel as the slide to frame fit is still very tight so there is some friction when racking the slide, but if I had to guess I'd say it's a 10 or maybe 11lb. I'm curious for 2 reasons. One it's nice to know what's in there. Also if I want to replace them at some point it means I can do the same if I wish. I usually run a wolf 8, 9 or 10lb variable recoil spring (depending on slide weight really) and a 17lb or 15lb ismi hammer spring. That combo is quite nice on my SV (8lb variable wolf recoil and 15lb ismi hammer). The CK currently is being run in, but it shoots really nicely with whatever the current spring set is. So I'm curious to know what it is. I feel the hammer spring is very heavy. When I got the gun I had to put in a new firing pin spring. I did what I usually do and fitted an extended FP (in this case SVI was what I had handy) with a wolf spring with 2 coils cut. When I dry fired the gun the hammer strike was hard enough to jam the firing pin into the breach face hole! I removed the wolf spring and re-used the one that came with the gun (looks like ismi) and it now works fine. That's something that leads me to believe the hammer spring is quite heavy (also you can feel the weight if thumb cocking the hammer). As I said the gun shoots really nicely and I wonder if a heavy hammer spring actually works to contribute to that 'feel'. Any help much appreciated.
  13. Hi I want to start by saying that I am not sure about this at all and don’t want to create negative publicity for Criterion. My opinion is still that they make very good products at an affordable price. I just wonder is it possible that the chrome on one of the lances are flaking after less than 1000 rounds? Most of you will probably think it is just copper or carbon built-up, but I have foamed the barre twice and scrubbed more than I like to do in a barrel. No carbon and no blue on the patches. The long spot on the right edge of one of the lance are still there. It appears a few thousands of an inch right after the throat. …………….and it might just explain the mike on a close target and the keyhole on the target next to it from the major match last weekend. If that was not enough, I have something that looks like a baffle strike on the JP brake form the same match, same day. Second baffle. What do you guys think?
  14. So I just got a new to me (used) STI Apeiro .40. When racking the slide by hand, at the rearmost 1/8" of travel, you can feel a tight spot, then the slide makes it past and stops at the end of travel, then when riding the slide forward, you can feel the same tight spot. Lock up seems to be perfectly fine, but this still bugged me. After about 3 days of racking my brain, I think I figured out what it is! For some reason there are two small protrusions on the inside surfaces of the slide rails. Each time these protrusions align with my guide rod head, they rub, then make it past, then rub on the way back forward. (see pictures attached) My first thought is just to take the dremmel and smooth out these bumps, then polish up the rails on the slide and frame to make sure there are no additional burrs. My question to you all is, should doing this cause me any problems? Secondly, why would these bumps be there? Have you seen them before? And lastly, is this anything STI would do about on a used gun, or is on me? Not sure what their lifetime warranty transfer policy is... Honestly I'm pretty comfortable doing this stuff myself, but if STI would still deal with it on their dime, I may be inclined to let them. Thanks!
  15. I've got an Elite Match in 40S&W but I'm kind of wishing I'd bought it in 10mm instead. Would I be good just buying a 10mm barrel and mags (and increasing recoil spring rate) or is there more to this? Also, where, aside from EAA, can I get a 10mm barrel? Anybody got one hanging around and like to get rid of it? Thanks. Doug
  16. For a long time there was many treads on this forum about Criterion AR-15 barrels and all I could think of was how to get my hands on one. I live in Norway and sadly my options are limited. But now there is hope. We finally got Brownells.no J I know that Criterion used to be a part of Krieger and all that……and that this is not the case anymore. It also seem to me that Brownells is more or less the exclusive distributer of these barrels now days. Are these barrels as good as they use to be or is Brownells marketing their own products under a trademark with a good reputation or something? ​
  17. Hello BE, I have a Schuemann barrel in my 2011 Open gun. It is a 3 hole Hybricomp AET barrel with a titanium 5 port compensator on the end. I bought the gun used, so I am not too sure how many rounds have been through it. The previous owner informed me that the rifling can wear prematurely with faster powders like 3n37 or n340 (info provided by Wil from Schuemann and JL Hardy.. the gun was built by JL Hardy). I tore the gun down to spring level to make sure everything looked good before I shot it, and everything looked great, but the barrel looks like it has worn rifling. Can anyone with a Schuemann step in and provide a picture or two of what the rifling looks like in their barrel with barrel specs, including approximately how many rounds have been fired through it, and what type of loads were primarily shot with it? Also, I have been using Super Lube in my other 1911s, but with small amounts. How much would you experts recommend using in the open gun? I have been testing some loads, and have been having some issues with FTFs and FTEs. More lube (or grease?) or less? Thanks for all the help! -fish PS, this forum is awesome!
  18. I am starting to upgrade my WE Hi-Capa 5.1. I am looking for maximum accuracy, not distance or power. Can someone recommend a good barrel? Has anyone tried a non-hop up barrel? I have heard they are more accurate than barrels with hop-up. Given a barrel of the same diameter, does the brand even matter since it is little more than a smooth tube? Thanks, Greg
  19. 18" barrel, rifle gas, .223 Wylde chambering, 1:8 twist, no more than 2 pounds. I have found some near misses, but nothing that hits all the specs. The Spike's Lothar-Walther barrels are all of the above, except mid-length gas. The VooDoo barrels are close, but they are 1:7 twist and don't do Wylde. The Rainier SPR barrels have all the specs but are over 2.5 pounds. Am I looking for a unicorn?
  20. Hey Y'all, 124gr Montana Gold FMJ 3.8grs Vihta Vhouri 320 Mixed Headstamp on brass (mostly range pickup all inspected during hand priming) Reloaded on a RCBS Single Stage, Loads metered and weighed with an RCBS Chargemaster 1500 Some loads double checked on an RCBS 5-0-5. My barrel is wrecked and I don't know what happened. I was practicing double taps at the range and my Glock 34 locked up with a live round in the chamber. The slide sat back about 1/4'' and would not cycle forward or backwards. I eventually was able to work the slide back far enough to remove the backplate, firing pin, etc and got the slide off the rim of the 9mm case that was lodged in the barrel. I carefully removed the cartridge from the chamber using a butterknife on the rim. Loads Chronographed at 960 avg. Varied A LOT from 901-1020fps with most in the 930 to 980 range. When I examined the inside of the barrel a "pressure ring" on the around the rifling is noticeable. Looks like the rifling got compressed. Anyone experienced this or have an idea what the heck happened? I've been anal rententive while reloading (about 2-3 years experience. I can't afford to have this mistake happen again, but I'm not sure what I did. My loads are a little under powered. I'm fairly certain the standard deviation is from the mixed brass. Some of the flash holes have really bad burrs from the factory. But none of that explains what happened. I'm sure I'm missing something.
  21. Hello: Does anyone have experience with the DRD barrels. I am looking at the 16 incch, hammer forged, chrome lined barrel. Good price and comes with a micro gas block and gas tube. Thanks in advance for the input. Adam
  22. Im looking into getting a conversion barrel for my glock 23 40cal and converting it to a 9mm So far i know of these makers Lone wolf and storm lake which one would you guys get?
  23. Just got my G34 slide (stock) and Bar-Sto semi-fit barrel back from BarSto. While this barrel is supposed to be drop-in for the most part, for me the slide/barrel wouldn't go back on the frame as-is (wouldn't clear locking block when in slide), so I sent the slide/barrel combo to Bar-Sto for them to fit it. (they said they didn't need the frame) Got it back today, and at first I thought the slide/barrel still wouldn't go on the frame. But if I do it slowly, and pull slide up away from frame slightly as I'm putting it on, it just barely fits, very very tightly. Once the barrel ramp clears locking block and slide is fully back, it seems to cycle by hand OK. (racking slide, releasing, and having it all go back where its supposed to be) My question - - Am I good to go to test it at the range? - Or is that very tight clearance on slide removal/assembly something that needs to be relieved slightly?
  24. Wondering if a burnt 22-250 barrel can be bored out to .243 until burnt again, then bored out to .308? Same question for 7mmRM to 300WM to 338LM.
  25. I'm looking to put a 9mm barrel in an old Llama 1911, originally chambered for 9mm Largo / 38 super with a long slide. The current barrel is 5.5" long. I didn't see anyone offering for this length among the usual suspects for a gunsmith fit barrel. I'm looking for a 5.4" to 5.5" non-ramped barrel. Where do I need to be looking? Or is it best to ask the manufacturer to cut down a 6" for me? Thanks, Chuck
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