MemphisMechanic

Stipple the grip and undercut the trigger guard, add a few ounces of weight, install a flat faced trigger and a giant aftermarket hammer and safety. These have been good to go in Production since early summer.

I had a Tanfo, not a CZ. Sold the metal guns and went back to all plastic guns - a trio of Walthers. CZ. Glock. Tanfoglio. Walther. The gun doesn’t matter much. Shoot the one you like; in these days where you “need” a metal gun to be more competitive, there were still more Glocks in the top 25 production shooters than CZs.

Agree to disagree. I consider that a huge disadvantage. My Walther is cut so deeply the DPP optic is now the cover for the firing pin channel: I shot a “plate system” gun for two matches, and hated how high the dot was mounted. With this gun, the dot is down right about where conventional irons used to be, and it was an astonishing improvement.

Conventional rear charging guns have racked up wins at every area match and Nationals since PCC became a division. Enjoy your unnecessary widget.

Shoot a gun equipped with one first, don’t go by the spec sheets online. The 2.5 MOA looks nearly as large as the 6-8 on most guns once it’s turned up to max brightness. The DPP is extremely bright compared to the slideride and RTS2. I’ve never had the slightest bit of trouble picking up mine, and two locals have bought one after trying mine out.

That upgrade is intended for autodriven presses and deletes the return spring that holds the toolhead up when you've released the handle. Instead I'd suggest Level10's improved toolhead return spring and cup: Dillon's spring needs replaced every few thousand rounds when the spring has set and the handle droops when you let go of it. Even the revised Dillon spring and cup aren't nearly as strong / smooth as L10's. Add the primer catcher tube, run it into a trash bin on the floor under the bench. A light and a mirror on the power station; it's in the back on the 1050, which makes visual powder level confirmation much more of a chore than on a 650 where it is up front. And I'm a big fan of the FFB shellplate I installed on my press in 9mm. Much beefier, with less wobble in the cases when they index to the next station,

I haven’t played with toolheads, since I only load one caliber... But I can wholeheartedly recommend the shellplates from Fast & Friendly Brass. Noticeably beefier and much less slop in the stations. At least in 9mm, the difference is night and day.

I have the patch sewn onto my nearly dead range bag. Never had a sticker.

Would help if you had your location listed in your profile...

Only one I’ve actually taken down here was Ben Stoeger when he visitied. Just a hint, Dave Sevigny is Georgia and I hear does training if you reach out.

Also one more thing: 9mm brass has a tapered wall: the first .300” up at the mouth is thin and designed to accomodate the width of the bullet. Seat a bullet deeper than that, and you may notice brass bulging and failing to pass a case gauge much more frequently. I say this as motivation to stick with shorter bullets like 124s when loading to 1.090” or thereabouts. If you stuff a long 147 that deeply into the case? That’s when you run into the above issue much more frequently.

Personally I’d ream the chamber to let myself load longer. But that’s just me. If you weren’t up in Canada I’d offer to help you out with that.

Call and ask. And this might help if it ever arrives:

Correct. The 24 is a 17L... just chambered for 40 caliber. If @Gloxrunna had any competition at his matches at all (anyone C class should be in the bottom third of the pack in Limited) he’d already have sold his 9 for a 40 caliber, because he was getting crushed shooting Minor. Major lets you shoot targets on the move, and partials, really agressively because Charlies don’t hurt if you’re moving fast. (Imagine the way you’d tackle an IDPA stage if they went to 1/10th of a second per point down.)

@mofosheee I have found titegroup NOT to be particualrly sensitive to OAL; backing a load of 4.0gr titegroup and 124 FMJ which was at 1.150” all the way down to 1.110” resulted in a negligible increase in velocity. It came up a few points worth in powerfactor; little enough I’m comfortable saying you wouldn’t be doing something dangerous.. but enough that I’d definitely chrono and adjust. Your finished load at 1.125”-1.150” with a plated 124 and titegroup likely be around 3.8 to 4.0 grains. Depending on how long & fast your barrel is, and if you’re the kind of guy who likes to load to 125.001 powerfactor... or up around 135, like I do. (Spoiler alert: the difference between 128 and 135 power factor with a 124 is almosy exactly 50 fps. With the same powder and bullet you *cannot* feel the difference in recoil or muzzle flip. Load a bit hotter, it only helps you.)

Compare that half hour to what’s required for a 650 The best thing about the 1050 for loading a bilion rounds is that the shellplate doesn’t move up and down, and the ram goes through the center of it. The worst thing about the 1050 for swapping calibers is that the shellplate doesn’t move up and down, and the ram goes through the center of it.

Sell it and buy a 35 or 24. Also, I too would love to see match results with Minor coming out on top of Major.

My $40 pop-up wagon from academy sports with a rifle rack & shelf welded onto it goes over rougher terrian... ?

You will never regret it. I thought the 650 was an impressive machine and was totally content. Never load on a friend’s 1050 unless you want to go home and spend the money... I’ll just say that.

Nothing. Moved the press from the garage into a compact closet, I leave the 1050 full of components at all times, and try to pull the handle just 20 times a day... It never gets dusty, and I always have ammo in the bin for the next range session.

Lies. I’m gonna have to call you on this because, like you, I was a 650 apologist for years. “It’s great, who needs a 1050?” With a wide variety of mixed brass leading to the occasional tight primer pocket, and CCI primers, they still happen a few times in 500 rounds. Not to mention the half-dozen or so you’ll flat out deform (or crush!) before you feel the increased effort while cranking ammo out fast with a bulletfeeder installed. If you only feed your press princess brass and buttery-soft federal primers, you’re probably correct. (And for the record, in well over 30,000 rounds I never had my seating assembly come loose on the 650.)

I had the 20 rounds I needed after going through the doorway... plus 4 extras in the gun. That let me push agressively on the first two steel back there, without adding a second mag change: 9mm gets you to 23+1 in most platforms... and you’ll want that kind of capacity frequently.

That’s what I’d do. That said, I had a brand new dillon spring & cup... and the level 10 was STILL a huge change.

@rdinga there are features on the 1050 people dont mention often enough: 1) How SHOCKINGLY easy the handle is to pull compared to the SDB/550/650. It feels like I have twice the leverage. No more tight shoulder / elbow after 500 rounds. 2) The fact that one primer will just keep been presented for a dozen cycles until you finally use it. Massive upgrade over a 650. Empty station? No problem. That primer just shuttles back out and gets fed to the next piece of brass. 3) Primer depth is a mechanical adjustment. Yes swages primer pockets are amazing, but you always hear that. High primers are a constant worry with a 650 and you pay constant attention to the feel of every case. With the 1050 every pocket has been swaged, and it presses them all to the same depth. Load 1,000 and they’ll all feel exactly the same, and case gauge like it too.

@IHAVEGAS The Level10 spring is much longer and stronger than my (brand new) revised factory spring... but only compresses half as far to avoid over-working it, because the cup nearly contacts the press frame where it mounts to your bench. It’s a lot longer. The effort required to drive the handle down didn’t increase noticeably, but upward “self return” effort sure did. Highly recommend.