MemphisMechanic

ZEV already has theirs on the Production list! (And to be honest I like ergos a lot more than the P80s although I don’t own any Glock or Glock-based guns.) From the USPSA site: Notes: ZEV O.Z-9 Approved for Carry Optics only (3/4/19) ZEV O.Z-9 Approved for Production, no mag well (4/17/19)

Curious why you guys are taking weight out of the frame (guiderod, light grips...) instead of further lightening to take an ounce out of the slide? It’s legal in Carry Optics, you’re already building a dedicated non-production gun, and it helps the gun’s performance in recoil the most. (Says the guy who milled his Walther slide for a dedicated DPP mount to get it ultra low, and took 3 ounces of meat out of the slide.)

We are an anomaly: if the weather is nice sometimes a dozen or so guys will “second gun.” Where you run through the whole match again, with the same gun - or a different one. That’s uncommon. Some areas of the country foolishly let a guy shoot two guns in one squad; perhaps he’s shooting Limited and PCC for example. That’s uncommon and just plain stupid. It makes the match take forever, and that guy is juggling stage plans and loading mags all day - he really cannot help score or paste AND shoot well.

Open always beats PCC at Area matches, where there’s going to be top level talent in both divisions. As others have said, the transition speed plus Major scoring are decisive advantages.

Definitely sounds like the follower is hanging on the bottom of the mag tube. Chamfer follower or mag body etc.

CZs have a much longer hammer spring, and a different sight setup.

If you want to build with preferred handguard, stock, safety, grip, etc? Buy a high quality upper and lower (Quarter Circle 10 blem pair is a great choice) and run all JP moving parts; their BCG, trigger, and barrel under your favorite handguard. It’s as reliable as the JP rifle and you don’t have to pay for the full JP up front... then pay more money to swap it’s safety grip or handguard out. I sold a buddy on going this route and he has literally never had a malfunction in 2,000ish rounds of the factory ammo he’s run. Hasn’t so much as racked a single bad round out of the chamber.

I’ve found nothing that works as well as Kroil, and kroil didn’t touch it.

FMJs still lead the comp. The base is exposed lead. This is the reason that open guys shoot hollowpoints: the jacket is on backward and the exposed lead is at the tip. There’s no lead exposed in the back to foul the comp. You want a TMJ, plated, or JHP if you want zero comp crud for certain.

I would try them and keep ay eye on your comp. it could work fine, but Titegroup and Prima V both had the same issue. I won’t run anything without a full copper jacket through a compensated rifle anymore. It’s not worth the cost savings to have to carve on my comp with a carbide grinding burr.

@PewPewJohnson87 are your 147s coated or FMJ? If so you’re going to pack the compensator on your PCC with gunk quickly when they’re run over titegroup. I kept the coated bullets for the handguns after GRINDING the concrete-like mass out of my comp and switched to plated 115s through the PCC (you need either plated, or JHPs.) And - Yes, I mean *grinding*. No amount of scrubbing or soaking in Kroil made a slight dent in the cement-like stuff built up in there. Keep in mind that you’re a grown man firing a handgun from the shoulder, even the more violent PCC recoils are pretty tame. All you’re focused on is a flat gun. The dot staying dead still is your only goal when tuning. Recoil doesn’t matter - don’t load with it as a factor. (Keep in mind that my friend who loads 135s for 130ish PF has only the slightest bit less recoil than another who loads hotter 115s. The gun weighs three times what a handgun does and spreads the force out over shoulder, AND both hands. Again, don’t think in handgun recoil terms.) Find an accurate load and one that you can tune the buffer and BCG to shoot completely flat.

With any PCC... I’m a fan of your reload being placed at 12 o’clock on the belt lying nearly horizontal. Bullets DOWN, not up like you’d expect for a handgun. Reload with a long mag using a “beer can grip” like the 5.56 guys do, and keep the rifle mounted on your shoulder. Don’t grip the mag like a pistol, and don’t take the extra time to roll the gun on it’s side like you are shooting a giant pistol.

147s make the action really sluggish with heavy BCGs, and the felt recoil is nearly identical to a 124 at similar power factor. Most guys are using lighter bullets simply because they’re cheaper and the gun shoots at least as flat - if not flatter. It’s a totally different animal from a handgun. Don’t expect load Production gamer ammo for a rifle division and see the same advantages.

All aftermarket hammers, safties, mag releases, etc... are now production legal as of early 2018. Stuff anything into any gun you like. Run a giant hot pink safety on a Tanfo, Cajun Race hammers in a CZ, and an APEX trigger in your Glock. Have fun.

@avastcosmicarena this is pretty clearly aimed specifically at the shooter who wants to utilize the gun in Open and Limited divisions - exclusively in USPSA. That’s a logical first step with a product like this. Perhaps if it succeeds they’ll market to the 3 gun and/or outlaw guys. I doubt you’ll ever see a slide m-ride dot; there’s not enough demand or places it fits into a competitive division.

Also, on a hammer-fired gun, the hammer spring is a huge factor in how the slide cycles. You have to cock the hammer through the force of a 10-16 pound spring... which acts as something like a dragracing car’s parachute... But you don’t have to deal with that extra spring mass dipping the muzzle as it hammers the slide back into battery. These guns effectively have a heavier spring coming back than they do going forward. This is part of why CZs and Tanfos shoot flatter - in addition to the obvious factor, which is weighing as much as a G34 and G19 taped together. It’s not uncommon to run a 6 pound recoil spring in a Tanfo, I ran 8 or 9 personally.

Going back to the beginning? Because getting your arm out on the handguard and controlling the gun is an advantage on splits and transitions. SBRs are slower except when you’re in really tight quarters, which you don’t actually see *that* often.

A reamer like the Clymer you can buy through Brownells won’t work. (1) Shadow 2, XD, M&P, Walther, Glock, and others all harden their barrels. The barrel is harder than highspeed steel (HSS)... which is what thread taps, and that reamer, are made from. You’ll wear the reamer down on the barrel you’re attempting to cut. These barrels require a much more expensive carbide tool. (2) But that doesn’t matter, because it won’t fit anyway. A polygonally rifled barrel requires the pilot of the reamer (the smooth tip) to be .001” smaller than conventional rifling. So it doesn’t fit into the barrel in the first place. I have a reamer that will cut a G5 barrel. I had it made through @1911luvr who works with a tool & die maker. They’re not cheap. ...And then I had to take a diamond lap to the pilot in order to get his to fit my Walther barrels. My PPQs and Q5s all eat anything you can stuff into the mags now. I have cut a few 5th Gen Glock and Shadow2 barrels for friends, too.

@Sarge I feel less shame with a dot on a handgun than I do when I show up at a match shooting ChickRifle Minor.

Welfare Open Minor and Production are the only two handgun divisions I’ll probably ever shoot.

What is your load? Coated bullet? Seriously. Run a mag of quality FMJ ammo through it. I like to do that with all my guns I reload for (the only time they see factory ammo) to develop an accuracy benchmark. It’s worth it to never question whether it’s the handgun or your reloads, and always know exactly where to focus on fixing any issues.

If it won’t go 20,000 rounds there’s something badly wrong with that product when it comes to USPSA shooting. Unfortunately until now we haven’t had a viable option. I hope you just bought one, so please keep us in the loop. I know you won’t hesitate run it hard - and discuss it frankly.

This is much of why I’m over PCC. If it doesn’t run for 1,000 rounds hard and dirty, I dont wanna shoot it.

The factory rod is .288” and the hole in the front of the slide is sized to match. A guide rod for an ISMI flatwire spring or a 1911 spring is .250” so the rod can wallow around in the hole in the slide. He made a bushing to keep it centered and fatten up the front of the guide rod. I’m not OCD. I run my guns with the thinner guide rod. They’re never centered in the slide and can wiggle around a bit. But 10,000+ through my Q5 like that wasn’t any kind of problem.