MemphisMechanic

This. It works great. Use a cutting disc on a grinder or in a dremel. The friction melts the plastic solid, and it applies pressure smoothly - rather than a saw blade scrubbing back and forth encouraging it to fray.

Agreed. A lot of guys who had long seen the appeal of Open (in every way *except* for the high cost and running a finicky gun) all made the jump as soon as it was a 140mm division. We came from Limited and Production... and even PCC. A fair number of our novices have slapped a dot on their Glock MOS after a couple of initial matches with irons, as well. You get polymer striker gun reliability and DIY-gunsmithing in a highspeed division with lots of bullets and a dot. It isn’t hard to understand the appeal. I’m not jumping to open anytime soon, neither are many of my CO buddies. Simply because of cost, both in dollars and in time spent at the workbench keeping her tuned up. I’ve got 2,000+ rounds on my carry optics Walther without any cleaning - just routine lubrication. Same as a production gun, these things run dirty just fine.

Some machining is going to be required by someone with skills. You’ll need a larger-diameter pocket machined on the left side of the frame for the flanged head of the smooth hammer pin, and then a hole precisely placed below the sear cage that intersects with the hammer pin hole at the correct depth. The pin can’t be free-floated like the Canik trigger pin mod - not without falling out of the gun. The above setup retains the hammer pin in both directions. The “competiton frame” guns with square trigger guards tend to have the setup you desire. The regular frame Witness guns often don’t, and you drive in a roll-pin instead. My suggestion would be to make yourself a floating hammer pin out of a drill bit or punch the correct diameter, and leave the gun alone. With everything properly aligned, and a good set of roll pin punches, the factory setup works just fine. Slide your dummy pin in there to line everything up and tap the roll pin in, driving the dummy pin out of the frame. Makes it easy.

Shoot for around 140 pf and try a quality FMJ in the 115-124gr neighborhood loaded around 1.100” That runs well in nearly every PCC out there. Begin with known good ammo, then introduce different bullet weights or try coated ones from there. Begin with something accurate and reliable.

@anonymouscuban you haven’t told anyone what division you shoot. What kind of gun within that division? What is your current classification, and are you having trouble climbing out of that classification - have you been in B class for a long time or are you a fresh C class just getting started in the sport?

@muncie21 if you grip hard, grip tape eventually wears down and comes loose. Even with all the tricks, like applying it warmed with a heat gun, it still shifts if you truly crush grip. And eventually it wears down. With good skate tape like Mob or similar, I can get a year or two out of it. I haven’t had that issue with it epoxied on, ever.

Grip harder with the offhand - which all new shooters need to do anyway. It should be crushing the gun hard enough someone who was a victim of your handshake would be uncomfortable. Firm weak hand grip (experiment with a little pressure on the frame with your thumb too!) won’t let your strong hand push the gun laterally so easily. Understand there are two fundamental causes of this: 1) Your trigger finger is pushing the gun as you stroke it rearward. Or 2) Your other stronghand fingers are tightening subconsciously as your trigger finger tightens to move the trigger. #2 is helped by gripping the gun more firmly; if you begin gripping with double the pressure then your hand is not going to tense up as much - it’s already there. In general gripping hard is great for our form of shooting. It’s possible to easily get to B class with a comfortable grip. When pushing beyond that is when people begin to learn to clamp down on the gun so it stays flat and the sights return faster... so you might as well learn this right off the bat. If your forearms aren’t burning while you’re conducting dryfire practice, you’re selling yourself short when it comes to shooting live ammo. Grip hard.

What would you possibly know about sponsoring shooters to no avail?

Stock thrown back over strong shoulder is best for short movements and transitions around walls. For long runs, don’t be afraid to drop into stronghand and haul ass. Much like a pistol, the best approach depends greatly on which direction you’re running, where the 180 is with respect to that, and how long your sprint is.

Here’s the blunt version of what @rowdyb is getting at: Sponsors are a myth in the shooting world. 99% of shooters you see walking around in jerseys covered in logos paid $100 for that shirt, and all they get in return is a discount when they buy parts or bullets from that retailer. Unless you’re knocking down High Overalls in your division at Major matches consistently, you will pay more to wear a wannabe shirt than you’ll ever make off the deal.

There are. They’re low-light for use with night vision, I suppose maybe? Adjust it in a black room sometime. If you travel to big matches and are in the running to win, that’s the only way to do it. I don’t care what brand of optic you’re using. Even if you were dumb enough to try to win with an RMR. Switch to a backup gun / dot if needed. Have a spare optic for when either primary optic goes in for warranty.

I’d imagine that all of your optic shooters are running a green dot. Because a red one would blend in with the soil on Mars.

You can legally create a course design that causes PCC shooters to not have their weak hand on the rifle. Some matches do it often. Your WSB would be; “PCC start position: gun held in strong hand only, stock on belt, muzzle downrange, 5lb mystery object held in weak hand.” If you prefer (and this is what I’d do) both the handgun and PCC shooter start the stage with gun in their typical starting position. In front of them is a barrel with the 5lb object on it. They’re welcome to move this object onto the activator at any time during the stage and no whining is heard about unusual start positions. Done.

Staple a noshoot to the barrel and angle the barrel so it hangs off the side from the shooter’s viewpoint. Then you can still use barrels to block off targets without them getting shot. The same way we use noshoots to keep people from hitting ports in walls. Every other club just lets you shoot barrels. We have ones with dozens of holes that are still in service from 10 years ago.

CZ P10 and Walther PPQ/Q5 / Q5SF both have vastly superior triggers to Glock in striker guns. Sig X5 / P320 Tanfoglio for sure is worth a look. Stock 2 / Limited Pro / Limited Elite if you want to go 2011 single-action competitior.

@waktasz likes himself some purple King’s bullets. Perhaps he’ll wander by with more info on ‘em since their logo is on his shirt.

B is where the casual hobbyist shooter tops out in skill if he practices once or twice a month, or more commonly, not at all. Some of us got lucky and bumped into A, but that’s an anomaly. I’d say C and B class account for 60-80% of USPSA shooters for this reason. You don’t see a lot of A’s because the path out of B... is the amount of dry/live practice that usually propels someone through A right into M within 12-18 months. If not less. I know more than one shooter who skipped A pretty much entirely. Mulled around in B for a few years, got serious about dryfire training, and were reclassified M by the time USPSA had gotten around to mailing them an A-class card. (Back when they still sent paper cards.)

@Michael303 true. I just looked up the price on a ZEV OZ9. Yikes.

You’ll never see Major 9 in Limited because they won’t risk angering every single competitor currently shooting in the most popular division. The end.

Because it’s unsafe for the Board of Directors. What do you think will happen if they make a million dollars worth of SVI / Akai / Atlas Limited .40s obsolete? ($1M worth is only like ten of these guns, so my math checks out. ) Their houses will be fire-bombed and they’ll all be tarred and feathered. And they know it.

@Dan4147 is describing exactly what I’ve done to ensure flawless feeding with Walther and Glock extended mags. Works great.

@Climbhard silicon carbide is absolutely the way to to go on a Walther. I had aggressively stippled this one before the glue and grit. No comparison. It’s faster and easier to do, too.

The quick-detach mount is perfect. I asked Max Leograndis about this thing a full year ago. His reply? “It’s great. Get one. Just be sure to take every screw out, loctite it, and put it back together and you’ll never have a problem.” I loctited the hell out of everything with red, and even used blue on the screws holding the battery tray in. I have never had a problem.

@lacivilian not to mention that on an Open or PCC where you don’t have to reciprocate that big optic... the 510 has other advantages besides it’s giant glass. Great battery life. ( I leave it turned on all day for matches then change the battery once a year.) It’s pretty damn durable. .... and it’s CHEAP!