MemphisMechanic

@Hi-Power Jack IMO this is primarily a 3-gun holster where you need to sprint into the next bay over, or go probe, with both hands on a rifle. With a holstered handgun. I keep my USPSA holster tighter than most. I can run 10yds without my hand on the gun with no problem, for reference. I only loosen it up for classifier stages - when I remember. But I would totally want a locking holster of some type for that other sport.

Nevermind. Their instagram was faster. Some others...

@Ontos show us some closeups of the front of the slide.

6 pounds of PCC with a light frontend is the way to go, in my opinion. That’s 0.5 - 1.0 pounds lighter than most.

Don’t switch hands. Simply do enough dryfire that it’s automatic to present the handgun in front of the other eye. Just dryfire. No need to turn your torso, head, or anything else 45 degrees... or any other nonsense that won’t work on match day. When you’re backing up to your left, while shooting targets in some unusual position, or something similar. Don’t overthink it. Just move the gun over 1.5” at arm’s length. Squint your right eye until the draw is complete if you need mental encouragement to get the gun in front of the left. Just do this...

Stoeger’s.

Too many of the rest of us diehard Production shooters would lose interest in the division if they made that mistake, and they know it.

Ran Ghost’s for two years. I switched to the plastic DAA Racer pouch and prefer it. The one place Ghost can’t be beaten is versatility. Without any adjustment, it’ll fit damn near every doublestack magazine you own. The leaf springs break or pop loose, and the pouches have a fragile body and mounting system. Buy a spare, and keep it’s parts broken down in your trunk if you run them hard.

@Hi-Power Jack the very last photo shows it up and locked. You flip it out and down to unlock it.

The Stock 2 gets the ugly stock-1-style “lily pad” cocking serrations, too, I see.

All you had to do was google. (Yeah I’m that this is a thing, too.) http://m.airsoftmegastore.com/14451-uk-arms-airsoft-relica-combat-application-tourniquet-kit-black.aspx

Racers are plastic and what I use. RaceMASTERS are aluminum and way too nice for someone like myself to have anything to do with.

Shoot it in Limited minor, especially if you happen to have some G17 mags with +2s on them to reduce how often you have to change mags: 15rd mags means two mag changes in most stages at a minimum. Get up to 17-20 rounds and you start to have more options. It only makes sense to start in Production if you plan to heavily compete in Production longterm. Since you aren’t committed to production, start in Limited shooting Minor. My belt rig recommendations of choice: BOSS Holster / hanger Shooters Connection brand belt. Very high quality for a very low price. DAA Racer pouches. I shot GHOSTs for three years. These are better. Will not need to buy new pouches when you change to a 2011, they’ll accommodate both with a spacer change. You’ll just need a new holster body to drop onto your BOSS hanger.

I laughed. That one was good. Guys on Enos just have a very stodgy sense of humor.

In Memphis at MSSA we all show up and design a stage, it isn’t uncommon for the MD to do perhaps 1 or 2 at most, out of 7 stages. Keeps a wide variety of things featured, and we’ve never had the “trying to upstage each other” problem. We all just design something we’re excited to get to shoot. Almost everywhere features all-32-round stages, however. I really enjoy setting up an extremely challenging stage with 14 to 22 rounds with a lot of fast aggressive movement and some hosing right before a hard, tight partial or something. But I’m in the minority.

I’m only replying to this to bump my post count. What forum feature is unlocked at 6,500 posts?

On the Gen 3’s you could pop the cap out of the tip of the rod carefully, slide a 13lb ISMI spring in there, the snap it back in. That’s what I did in my Glock days. I have no idea if such an approach is viable on a later model.

Leave the screw head out and run them uncaptured. Makes cleaning the rod and spring much easier and it’s not very tough to assemble.

The unspoken purpose of the Extreme parts is to be silver. So that when an IPSC competitor did minor polishing it wasn’t obvious like it would be on a black part. There was no reason to run one in the US, where it was already completely legal to shine your black factory part up to a mirror shine.

I know you’re in Germany, but for other newer guys who are reading along: I wouldn’t worry about finding a small frame S2 /S3 in the first place if you live inside the USA. EAA has only imported Large frames for at least a decade.

That’s the Local Rules version. For the guys who really get the sport. “Gas it up.” “Prepare to rock.” BEEP “You done? If so remove powerpack from Phaser.” “Show me a clear chamber.” “Click it and stick it.” “RANGE SAFE, SCORE THOSE SUCKERS!”

Factory ammo will be fine. coated, jacketed, or hollowpoint ammo you’re loading yourself? A plunk test is necessary to establish the fact that you’re not loading too long for your chamber with every single projectile you try. Two different hollowpoints will be shaped differently at the shoulder and require different maximum lengths in a gun like a tanfo. Or have the chamber reamed for about $30 and run any bullet you desire out to 1.150.” I do that to all of my guns - Tanfos and Walthers have such restrictive chambers it got annoying.

You’re basically replicating factory ammo with your load, which isn’t a big deal. To be frank you’re too much of a novice for it to matter much. Just shoot ‘em up. Powders? Sport Pistol prima V WST Titegroup Just to name a few. If it’s suitable for 5.7x28 you 100% don’t want to run it in 9mm minor if you’re looking for a soft shootable load. In a tanfoglio you’ll likely just have to run the plunk & spin test to see how short you need to load your ammo. Search on it and you’ll find the simple procedure.

Because it works the opposite of the way you think it would. Logically a light bullet with a slow burning powder and a really heavy recoil spring would make your gun shoot softly. In reality that produces a very sharp recoil impulse. To make the recoil softer, you run a light recoil spring, slow heavy bullets, and extremely fast burning powders.

That’s all you’ve gotta do. I tried the Dillon lube above. It leaves your rounds very sticky and needs cleaned off after loading. I went back to one shot.