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MiWiAu

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  1. Thanks for clarifying, Charlie! This makes a lot of sense. Also, good point about tangible punishment for failures other than misses. Much appreciated! P.S. Your book showed up yesterday. Great read! Almost done with my first pass through. This will be a great reference and training tool moving forward. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Great listen! I’m new to the sport and absorbing all the info I can. I just ordered your book last week, and I’m eagerly awaiting its arrival. Quick question on your philosophy with mikes in training... You say in the podcast that there needs to be a tangible consequence for missing. Is this a hard and fast rule you apply regardless of your training goals? Steve Anderson suggests that calling a miss is acceptable when working in “speed mode” when your primary goal is to go faster. It seems like never allowing yourself a miss might prevent one from pushing their limits for fear of missing? How does one know their limit if they don’t cross the line? Hoping you would elaborate a bit on your philosophy. Thanks!
  3. I ended up getting the Comptac. No complaints. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I had most of the material laying around to try a “Velcro” setup, so decided to give it a whirl. All I had to purchase was some felt and the “hook only” adhesive backed Velcro (ordered off Fleabay) to put on the back side of the cardboard targets. For anyone who cares, I’ll update on how it works once my targets and Velcro arrives! Side note: Eventually, I plan to scrape off all that old liquid nails and paint the walls, so it looks a little more presentable, but this should work in the meantime. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Definitely! I have a bunch of 1/3, a couple 1/2 and a handful of 1/6 (which are borderline too small). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. After some additional digging, it looks like one can buy the “loop” side of velcro material in bulk (60” widths). I’m thinking if I do a 2’ section the whole width of my space, I can put some “hook” strips on the back side of targets and move them around to change things up. My initial thought is using spray adhesive to mount the loop material to some 1/4” plywood, then use some small anchors to mount it to the wall. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Hey all, My new dryfire dojo went into service last night. It’s a pretty basic set-up in my unfinished basement, and the space is currently about 12’x28’. Concrete floor and cinder block walls. Does anyone have any tips for temporarily attaching targets to cinder block walls that facilitates easy array changes? To maximize floor space, I’m trying to avoid traditional target stands. I’m currently using some paper IPSC targets Gorilla taped to the wall (cardboard targets are on order), but this method will destroy targets after being repositioned only a few times. Curious if anyone out there has a creative or innovative suggestion that is economical and not completely permanent. Maybe I need a giant Velcro wall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thanks for the tips. In addition to the Jack Black’s Industrial Hans Healer, I also picked up some Joshua Tree and Working Hands to try. I like the Working Hands during the day, because it’s not greasy feeling. The Joshua Tree salve is nice at night before bed since it’s a little greasier and takes a while to absorb. The athletic tape has helped, and my grips are starting to wear in with some dead skin, so all is going well. Thanks to all who have made suggestions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Sorry man, wasn’t trying to start an argument. I was just trying to be analytical about the ingredients. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hmm, I’ll have to go to a store and see what they have. The “Udder Balm” I see on Amazon also appears to contain alcohols. The “Bag Balm” does not, but it also appears to be mostly vaseline with a couple extras. Thank you. ETA: There are some interesting articles on alcohol in skin care products. Bottom line is that not all of them are bad (fatty alcohols are actually good for the skin). https://www.paulaschoice-eu.com/alcohol-in-skincare-the-facts I also found this product analyzer (just copy/paste the ingredients). The O’Keefes doesn’t seem all that bad. [emoji2369] https://www.skincarisma.com/ingredient-analyzer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Is the stuff you use the O’Keeffe’s Working Hands in the green container? If so, it’s certainly the most reasonably priced of the stuff I’ve seen so far. I started using Pro Grip recently as well... amazing how much a little of that stuff helps! With that and the grip tape, it’s like the pistol is velcro’d to my hands! Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I will check out Joshua Tree. Thanks for the recommendation. I got some “Jack Black Industrial Hand Healer” that I like, but I’ll look into rock climber stuff. Good tip! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Copy that. Thanks!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. LOL. No problem. I sit behind a computer most of the day now, and evidently I’ve gone delicate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I added some grip tape to my Glock a couple weeks ago to get a more positive purchase with my support hand. The OE grips were too slippery, and the grip tape I installed (from Ben Stoeger Pro Shop) is somewhere between 40 and 60 grit. It's pretty aggressive, which works well, but it's beginning to tear the $#!+ out of the meaty part of my support palm at the base of the thumb. I've been doing daily dryfire for the last couple weeks, and the skin on my support hand is pink and tender. It hasn't rubbed all the way through yet, but I don't think I'm too far off from that point. I'd prefer to not make the grip less aggressive, and I would like to continue my dryfire routine. I'm wondering what the best way is to facilitate speedy development of a callus. Should I keep the tender area moisturized? Let it dry out? Give it a break and cover it with athletic tape, or keep pushing until it rubs through? Tips/tricks welcomed. Thanks!
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