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Yondering

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About Yondering

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    Sedro Woolley, WA
  • Real Name
    Dan Bethea

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  1. I must have gotten a good one with my Canik TP9SFx. All it needed was a 6lb Glock striker spring and reduced power safety plunger spring for the trigger, and a lighter recoil spring for cycling light loads. The trigger is now crisp, light, and very short reset. I don't care about the pretravel since it doesn't affect actual shooting.
  2. Yes almost always will damage coated or other lead bullets, in my experience. Also, many lead pistol bullet profiles are difficult or impossible to pull with a collet puller. Collet pullers have their place but are not a universal best solution.
  3. What were the restrictions on the prone position? Did you have to be laying head towards the target, or could you lay with feet towards the target and resting the gun hand on one or both legs? For my own use (not competition with rules, just what works best for me) I lay with feet towards the target. Off hand either supporting/raising my head, or up on that elbow. Right leg (when shooting right handed) is bent at the knee and laying partly over the left, with the gun hand rested in the outside crook of the knee. The shooting arm ends up pretty much straight, and driving the shooting fist into the back of my right calf right at the knee. That's sorta hard to describe, but very stable for distance shots and works well for me. Just don't do that with a revolver unless you use a leather pad between gun and knee.
  4. I first started looking into this when I got into loading heavy subsonic bullets for suppressor use, and was surprised at the differences between headstamps. Other calibers vary a little bit, but the 9mm seems unique in the large differences between one brand and another. I designed my own 178gr, 168gr, and 165gr subsonic 9mm bullets, and because of their length, older FC brass is the only headstamp I can use without causing the brass to bulge and the bullet bases to be sized down. Running those bullets in something like Win brass through a Lee FCD just caused the bullets to be pushed back out of the case and become loose. Of course those findings got me curious so I had to measure everything else too. As a result, I do separate out CBC and Aguila for everything except 115gr or lighter bullets. I can get away with using it for 125gr but the bullet bases get damaged, which leads to lead smoke (coated cast bullets) and I try to avoid that.
  5. If it's rusting where he ground the magwell, there's no finish to be gentle with. Either way, 0000 steel wool is fine to use on bluing and most other gun finishes, including barrel bores to remove lead.
  6. I'm not saying you necessarily need to sort by headstamp, but for some longer bullets it is necessary to either sort or accept deformed bullet bases. With shorter bullets or loading long it doesn't matter much. What I am saying is that .300" number is a theoretical spec that does not match the reality of mixed headstamp brass. If a guy is going to load long bullets or seat deeply, it helps to be aware of how the brass dimensions work with that. I've done a fair amount of measuring this; easy to check my numbers yourself with a pair of calipers. The ONLY brass headstamp I've found that consistently has .300" or more straight section is older FC; everything else has less space. Here's what I've seen for some of the more common headstamps: FC: .320"-.340" PMC, *FC*, Blazer: .260"-.280" Win, R-P, some S&B: .200"-.250" (Win and R-P are inconsistent) CBC, Aguila: .130"-.160" Obviously, seating a long 147gr bullet into something like CBC or even a lot of Win brass either causes a bulge or deforms the base of the bullet, depending how the ammo is processed and how soft the bullet is.
  7. This is where case selection by headstamp can make a big difference, because that internal taper varies a lot between different brands. Older FC brass for example has more than double the space before the internal taper compared to CBC and a couple others. That .300" number is an approximation that actually varies so much it's not really a useful guideline IMO.
  8. I'm not sure about the holes overlapping, but the slide cutout doesn't match at all. That cutout needs to be a precise fit to the optic; that's what holds it in place. The screws just hold it down, but the edges of the cutout do all the work in constraining the optic front/rear and side/side. The Vortex uses pins to locate it. The RMR can use pins, but they are wide enough that you can't really drill and pin a Glock slide for an RMR if that surface is already miled flat; the pin holes would break though the edges of the slide. If you aren't using pins to locate the optic on a flat surface (as in MOS system, etc) then this is the kind of fit you need:
  9. The first couple shots from a clean barrel often have a different POI than succeeding rounds. That's normal. The solution is to make sure any serious shots happen in a fouled barrel. Same goes for a cold bore shot, expect the POI to be a little different than subsequent shots from a warm barrel. Those things don't indicate a problem with the gun, that's just part of learning your rifle and where it hits. Also, excessive cleaning is not necessary or helpful. If you're one of those guys who cleans the barrel every time you use the gun, you'll need to plan on working around a few fouling shots every time you shoot it again.
  10. If this is true then you really should re-visit your loading process to figure out what's wrong, for safety's sake. Sounds like either your expander is too big, die isn't sizing small enough, or your bullets are undersized (that last one is unlikely). I've encountered this before, and it was an oversized expander at fault. Crimp is a really poor substitute for good case neck tension. If your rounds have good neck tension, you should not be able to push the bullets in deeper by hand. (The exception would be a benchrest cartridge set up for very light neck tension; a different thing than 9mm semi-auto ammo.)
  11. The difference is you can use 620 in a press fit. I've had 680 cure halfway through pressing a part on because it's designed for slip fits and kicks off fast in a press fit. With that said, I'd still never use 620 on a rear sight either; they don't need to be locked in place that hard. It works fine to help hold in a Glock front sight, but I keep it out of any dovetails.
  12. Seems like a fairly heavy barrel and receiver set, which are two of the main places to save weight on a large frame AR. It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me to try to save a couple ounces in the bolt carrier when using a 42 oz barrel.
  13. Sure it was 680? There are a bunch of green retaining compounds, and the stuff I've gotten from them and other companies is one of the press fit compounds, not 680. I never saw an actual # on the little packets though, it was just a different viscosity than 680 so obviously different. I'll use 680 on a front Glock sight, but not in a tight dovetail.
  14. Sounds like maybe you're talking about wicking grade green #290 or something similar. This is the problem with saying "green" or some other color though - there are a bunch of variations in each color and nobody knows which one you really mean if you don't use the number, and yes it does make a big difference. For example, there is a whole line of bearing and sleeve retaining compounds that are green, ranging from medium to permanent strength, and those are completely different than #290 wicking grade green. If a guy takes your advice and uses green #680 to install a rear sight, it'll be a permanent installation and will either need to have the loctite burned out or the sight milled away to remove it. It's also likely to bind up before the sight is fully installed because it's not intended for press fits.
  15. Yes it really does! This is mine with the KMS light. (The LEDs are not visible from a normal loading position, this is just the angle of the camera.) DIYguy, you can see the bearing bronze washer under the shellplate bolt head:
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