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Yondering

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    Dan Bethea

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  1. Really Nolan? First line of the first post...
  2. Reinventing? No, I'm asking about a direct interpretation of the rule as it is written. That is the opposite of reinventing it. I'm also asking if there is another rule that covers this. What the rule quoted above says and what race1911 said are not the same.
  3. It looks like you've made a buffer that softens the stop at the rear of bolt carrier travel. Great. But - if you're claiming it eliminates the need to restrict gas on an overgassed rifle, how does this do anything to delay unlocking? Early unlocking is one of the main problems with an overgassed AR. Seems like your product only addresses felt recoil, which is just one of the issues with an overgassed rifle.
  4. Maybe there is another rule on that somewhere? Per the rule you cited, there is certainly a good argument for allowing factory built pistols with magwells included, since they are neither modifications or add-ons. That is per the wording of the rule, but maybe there's an unwritten interpretation of it that fits what you said?
  5. I've got no dog in this fight, but am curious - is a factory-installed magwell on a production model considered a modification? It doesn't seem that it would fit the definition of a modification or an "add-on" magwell.
  6. Mil-spec trigger groups vary quite a bit in feel, especially with lighter springs. I don't like any of them myself, but it's no surprise that the springs alone didn't improve yours enough. Even without getting into the really good high end triggers, you can make a world of difference in the trigger for $100 or less by replacing it with one of several good options. I would not waste my money on any of the polished/slicked/coated mil-spec "improved" triggers though, just go straight for a good trigger for not much more money. Larue and RRA have decent 2 stage triggers, and Rise Arma
  7. This. Kroil or some other penetrating oil, even WD-40, is your best bet, followed by some scrubbing after a soak. Brake cleaner won't do much of anything for carbon usually; it doesn't dissolve carbon and just removes whatever oils may have soaked into it. Loosening the carbon with penetrating oil is what you want.
  8. yes, Flitz or other metal polishes will do that, so will lead remover patches. Fast evaporating solvents like brake cleaner and laquer thinner are not very good for removing carbon. WD-40 and other oily solvents like kerosene, diesel, etc do a much better job, but you'll need to put some elbow grease into it as well. You could try some fine steel wool, or copper or brass scrubbing pad (i.e. Chore Boy pads). Chrome is pretty hard and durable, you don't need to worry about damaging it with most chemicals, just avoid abrasives like polishing paste, scotchbrite pads, or sa
  9. Why does the takeup matter to you? I can't see any reason to care about it since the reset is very short, and the takeup is so light that it has no practical effect on what is otherwise a pretty crisp single action trigger in mine. (To be fair, I dropped a 6.5 lb Glock striker spring in mine, but no other trigger mods.)
  10. No Dillon fanboy here, just making sure the OP gets accurate info. He doesn't have to go to a single stage to load accurate ammo. Just use good dies (I suggest Forster rather than Dillon) and good load development.
  11. I wouldn't worry too much about the crimp. Just set OAL to whatever works for your barrel, and apply a mild crimp, if any. Personally I normally don't crimp much at all, just enough to straighten out the case mouth flare.
  12. That's not a crimp ring, these are two-diameter bullets. It allows them to be loaded long (same effect as a long throated barrel) for more powder capacity. I don't see anything in the picture indicating if these are pulled or not; I think the other guys missed your details about the two diameters and think that's a crimp ring. I've loaded some of these (well, the 124gr version as well as other calibers) a long time ago, but don't remember where I got them. They are a pretty good defense bullet and shoot reasonably well too. Depends if it's worth the hassle to you
  13. Are you saying he should buy a Rockchucker single stage press instead of paying for 223 dies? What good would that do? If you're not counting the cost of the dies, which would be needed either way and certainly don't need to be Dillon, then a Rockchucker is not cheaper than converting, and doesn't necessarily translate to better ammo. You mentioned brass processing too, and if he wants to speed up that process it can be done faster on a 650 anyway with another tool head, if he is willing to spend the money.
  14. I think you're over-emphasizing the marketing side of things, which pretty much every other company does as well. It's true though that Glock doesn't release very many large changes. The alternative is they could be like Sig, constantly rushing new products to market with poor or incomplete development, relying on their customers as beta testers and using warranty claims for their R&D, and a history of dropping a lot of those products later to chase the next new thing. If that's what you want as a consumer, Glock is probably not for you. With a career in testing an
  15. Anybody else see the announcement for the new G44 today? Apparently it's a G19-sized 22 LR. They said the slide is steel and polymer (no surprise there). The release mentioned shipping with 10 round mags, no idea if there will be higher capacity available. My thoughts - I had a Ciener conversion on a G23 that was a nice size and fun to shoot if the right ammo was used (and after some tweaking); a factory Glock equivalent that is more reliable could be a winner. If the aftermarket picks up the slack with higher capacity mags, this could be a fun little plinker.
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