Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Yondering

  • Rank
    Looks for Match

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sedro Woolley, WA
  • Real Name
    Dan Bethea

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Most of my competition experience has been in GSSF; one of the pistols I use for GSSF Unlimited class is also my carry gun, a G19 with a slide mounted RMR and some other improvements.
  2. I was going to offer the stock hammer & disconnector from my Stock II, but looks like you have that covered. If you're successful with the conversion, I'd be interested in the SA trigger if you want to sell it.
  3. As with any lead bullets, you'll only see problems if the bullet is too small or soft. Contrary to popular internet rumor, polygonal barrels shoot lead very well when the bullets are sized right and hard enough for the load used. Coated bullets are the only thing I've fired through my Stock II.
  4. Yeah, in that case you'd get the same result with either method, and the way you did it may be a little easier.
  5. If you're referring to my comments about the Lee factory crimp die - it's not just any crimp die that is a problem, but the Lee FCD specifically, which has a carbide sizer ring (like a sizing die) that sizes the entire case down while applying the crimp. This sizes the bullet down too since it's inside the case, so going to a larger bullet diameter doesn't help if you're using one of those dies. Also, consider the effect of different case neck thicknesses if you're using mixed brass - you end up with different bullet diameters after running the ammo through a Lee FCD. With that said, I have used the FCD with good success with certain barrels and loads, where the pressure curve is right for making the bullet seal the bore anyway. So, you can load good ammo with that die, but it's also a lot more likely to cause issues with any lead bullet load.
  6. JMO - it wouldn't hurt to go straight to .358" with the softer alloy Brazos is using. Lightfoot's explanations are right on. A couple key points to reiterate: - The ultimate goal with these details is for the bullet to seal the bore and grip the rifling. - Larger bullet diameters provide more force against the bore to accomplish this. - Softer lead is more easily sized down by excessive case neck tension. Starting with a larger size helps overcome this. - If you use a Lee factory crimp die or something similar, your bullets are sized down after loading and this defeats the value of larger bullet diameters. - High pressure loads can help seal the bore better than mild pressure. For a minor power load, moving to a faster burn rate powder (like Clays, Bullseye, etc) can help seal the bore better than a slower burn rate powder (like Unique, WSF, etc). - Softer bullet alloys require less pressure to seal the bore, but are more susceptible to undersizing from case neck tension. A useful test for those of you getting some leading and/or poor accuracy - pull some of your loaded bullets and measure the diameter. They may be smaller than you think. If you're loading with mixed brass, pull some from different brands; you'll find that some brands squeeze soft bullets a bit more than others. This also goes for brass that's been fired a lot and work hardened. Lightfoot - just a suggestion, since you're using a softer bullet alloy than most, it would be a good idea to default to sending people a larger diameter if they don't specify. In my experience with 9mm cast bullets at 10-14 BHN (either coated or lubed), .356" diameter is too small for a lot of guns, especially when loading with mixed brass. I've found .356" usually works with 18-22 BHN but .358" is generally better at ~12 BHN. The exception of course would be tight chambers.
  7. I have a different take on this, coming from about 20 years of trigger jobs on all manner of semi-auto pistols. The fitting method you and MM described work, so please don't take this as saying you guys are wrong, but I've also noticed that most of you who fit the safety this way with a one piece sear and titan hammer also need to use an extended firing pin block. That happens because the titan hammer holds the rear (engagement surface) of the sear a tiny bit higher, dropping both front arms lower, which prevents the safety from engaging (before fitting) but also keeps the right arm from engaging the stock firing pin block. The fitting method I prefer is to remove material from the bottom side of the large flat section at the rear of the sear. In the picture above, that is the underside of the sear at the right of the pic; this is the surface that has the little casting nub. That does not reduce sear engagment (you'd have to shorten the hammer hooks for that); instead it allows the rear of the sear to drop lower, raising the front arms to work with the stock safety and firing pin block. I used this method years ago when doing trigger work on CZ and Tanfo pistols, and just a couple weeks ago when fitting the Extreme one piece sear and Titan hammer in my Stock II. On the Stock II, I ended up removing .006" from the bottom edge of the sear flat; the point where the safety engaged correctly was also the right point for the stock firing bin block to function correctly. That .006" material removed did not count the casting nub, just the flat area. Also just a tip on sear fitting - I found a small roll pin in my hardware stash that was the perfect size to use as a slave pin in my sear. It made the spring installation easy, and that roll pin is a standard size you can find at a hardware store. I'll measure it this evening if anyone is interested.
  8. I would go with .358". That's what I use in my Glocks.
  9. I shoot thousands of coated cast bullets every year from my pistols (Glock and others) with no leading or accuracy issues, but that's because I use large enough bullet diameters to work correctly. I'd expect some leading and accuracy issues with .356" bullets in most of my 9mm pistols; for .355" bores I want at least .357" and preferably .358" diameter bullets. Try a larger diameter, you should have much better results. For this application, size does matter.
  10. I use Dillon die sets for some calibers, and various other brands for other calibers just depending what I had. I've always liked the Dillon dies and been very happy with them; I have no complaints and they seem to be high quality in my experience. The primer pull back issue has occurred with all of the different brands of dies I use; Dillon does not stand out in that group. Beveling the primer tip fixes all of them equally (i.e. it cures about 90% of the pull back issues).
  11. If you swap in a .40 barrel, sure. If you're talking about using the 10mm barrel, no, it is NOT safe. The guys who say they do it must not be inspecting their brass, because signs are pretty obvious on cases that fire in front of the extractor. I'll have to dig up some pictures of .40 brass fired in my 10mm witness - the results are severe case head damage and primer flattening, expanded case head, and a section of the rim torn off. The .40 case is shorter than the 10mm, so it can jump in front of the extractor during feeding and then is held away from the breech face by the extractor. The problem is the Tanfo firing pin is long enough to still reach the primer and ignite it, so the round is slammed back into the breech face under pressure. This is safe to do in a Glock because the firing pin is so short it won't reach a case in front of the extractor (it either fires correctly or not at all), but is not safe in a Tanfo or 1911.
  12. No, some stainless is magnetic and some is not. It has nothing to do with "low grade" or quality of the material at all, just different classes of stainless steel which is really a broad category of steels, not a particular alloy. Generally, 300 series stainless is non-magnetic or very mildly magnetic, while 400 series is strongly magnetic. I suspect most all of us here own at least one pocket knife, and most of those have stainless steel in one of the magnetic alloys. Easy to check if you don't believe me... Personally for case tumbling, I avoid pins; they seem to cause more problems than they're worth. I like nice shiny brass too, so I do a dish soap & citric acid (lemon juice) bath, dry, and then tumble in corn cob with case polish and car wax. That leaves an amazing bright shine on the cases.
  13. That is my preference as well, for match pistol ammo anyway. The factory ammo boxes just make it easier to drop 10 or 15 out to load a mag. All of my other pistol ammo goes in either small buckets or ziploc bags. Rifle ammo usually goes in the plastic 50 round ammo boxes, except bulk ammo like some 223 and 300 Blk that just goes in a bucket.
  14. I'm interested in this as well. I've been using my D-Terminator scale since ~2002, it still works well and I really like it, but am always interested in improvements if there are any to be had.
  15. I have one Glock 19 barrel (2nd or 3rd year gen 4 production, made in Austria) with .357" groove diameter, and have slugged a couple other Euro 9 barrels in the .356" range. It's also important to note that the chamber throat diameter is more important than bore diameter for choosing bullet size - the throat is often .001-.002" larger than the bore, and I prefer a bullet diameter that perfectly fits the throat or slightly larger. My personal rule for lead bullets (either coated, lubed, or plated) - if in doubt, use a larger size. The upper limit for bullet diameter is the chamber dimensions; loaded rounds shouldn't be a tight fit in the chamber, but below that point it's pretty safe to use large diameters. (Not talking about jacketed bullets here!) The point of all that is to say this: if I were ordering lead bullets from Brazos or anyone else and didn't know my bore and throat dimensions, I'd start with .358" diameter, and then maybe try some smaller sizes for accuracy after that. Hope that helps.
  • Create New...