MemphisMechanic

I did this once with a baby 7+1 singlestack Walther PPS, reloading to 8rd mags because that is the way I carry it. Had to shoot Limited to make the Appendix holster legal. I plan to do this often, it’s really educational to take the competition belt off.

It’s not carbide. I don’t run one without lubing it. I bought the MA die because of the beefiness of the decapping pin. A lot of guys like the lack of cokebottle look: the reloads can pass for factory ammo. But the wasp waist of a U-die never bothered me and I miss everything expect bending (even hardened) decapping pins.

The 510c is the best optic going for PCC. When it doesn’t reciprocate and then gun already weighs 5-7 pounds, that big window and beefy design are definitely a great choice. I don’t understand why people want to run slideride-sized optics on a rifle. There’s no reason not to go bigger. I run circle and dot at all times, and prefer it. Not too busy at all! But you do have the choice of circle, dot, or both.

Same here. Had a guard run thousands pretty flwlessly. Then it began choking twice a mag, all kinds of hilarious malfunctions. Put a BCM in extra power extractor spring for a 5.56 into it (which is STOUT, with out any O rings)... it’s run flawlessly ever since. And I’m running mine on a KE Arms ambi lower. I dropped the mag in the gun nearly 1/4” and turned an old ejector into a hook the sits on top of the feed lips so they can’t be overinserted on an open bolt.

Won’t need the large bar unless you start messing around with rifles. The breaking point is somewhere up around 20-25gr charge weight, if I recall correctly.

That’s easy enough. Thanks.

No facebook account over here. So keep us posted I guess.

Same here, @kmc. As a welder/fabricator I’d probably end up making a copy of this if it works smoothly!

This is probably where I would start tuning... Most Tanfos eject slightly forward, as do many of my other guns. If I want my brass back at the indoor, I grab the push broom and drag them back to me. I like 2 o’clock ejection because they don’t ricochet off the lane divider then hit me in the arm. ...So I’m guessing, because I’ve never actually played with it. Grab a spare sear cage, extractor, and extra power Wolff extractor spring and then start filing on things between range trips. Unfortunately I don’t think anyone else will have the answer you seek because it hasn’t been an issue for them. Definitely run the stronger extractor spring in general, it’s a big boost in reliability with a dirty gun.

I highly doubt anyone will have any experience loading them. They’re not available as loose bullets as far as I’ve seen, which means they were pulled from loaded amo. ...But I’m curious to see if I’m wrong. It looks like they were crimped into the cases they were pulled from at the point you’re referring to, which doesn’t really make sense because factory ammo is never loaded that long.

I would if I remembered it! I know someone told me where it was originally posted from a while back, and I’m guessing that was probably you.

Real ID is not needed to fly domestically until Oct 1, 2020 so you’d be fine. Flying to Orlando then renting a car may be cheaper, thanks to Disney keeping prices into MCO cheaper than almost any other destination in the country. Particularly if your city has Southwest Airlines service. Then you just ship your ammo to the address that Nationals provides (Frostproof is good at handling this per Cody and Joel on the Shoot Fast Podcast) and it’s there waiting on you.

That funny other sport. I think that’s the max weight for IDPA ESP, which is the only place outside of 3-gun where you’d put a magwell on a gun shooting minor 9mm.

Try using one shot in all carbide dies Your shoulder will tell a huge difference after loading 1,000 rounds, no matter what dies you’re using. Spray the inside of a plastic bin for two seconds, dump a few handfuls of cases in and shake them around, then pour them in the casefeeder. That way lube never gets shot down into the cases. Easy.

CODA evolution. Very happy with them.

At make ready you’re permitted to withdraw a handgun from a holster and load it, or to do the equivalent of that with a PCC which is... to uncase it and begin to load it. When I shoot, I bring a little pop-up wagon with a two-gun rack mounted in it. This makes it easy: Roll the wagon right up behind the starting position. It’s right there to grab, unflag, and load at “make ready.” You also don’t have to walk all the way back to the rear of the bay to stow the gun when you’ve finished. I played in PCC a bit, but I usually shoot CO or Production. I started leaving the rifle rack on the wagon so that squadmates who are otherwise humping a rifle to the line in a bag are able to use it and speed the squad up.

Definitely correct. The only other viable modification I can think of at this point would be to weld the tab atop the trigger bar and extend it so that it lifts the striker block sooner. But when you’re having to modify drop safeties to get the gun to work? I think the OP is on the right course switching to a combination of parts known to produce a safe firearm with a good crisp trigger.

@rishii soaking the comp in Kroil for a few days then shooting it out does not work on a PCC, just like you speculated. You have to soak/beat/scrape/grind it out. So that gun gets plated bullets, and everything else gets blue bullets.

Coated bullets or FMJs with an exposed lead base will gum up your comp in short order. A few thousand rounds. JHPs and plated bullets with no lead exposed to the powder, and no coating, leave it squeaky clean and are worth paying every penny for. I cleaned my PCC Comp of lead and coating residue once. Don’t want to do it again. It’s not scrubbing. It’s grinding, even after an overnight soak in kroil. It packs in like concrete and I have to grind it out with a carbide burr in a dremel. Anyone who cared about keeping their comp pretty would have been sobbing.

@WhiteDingo I’m going to have to agree with everything you said above.

I like it when my mags drop free.

You’re showing us the inside of the magwell. Not holster wear. I’ve done many guns in cerakote myself: Cerakote is tough. Quite tough. But it is very picky about two things: (1) Mixed to the correct ratio with the catalyst and baked at the correct temperature and time. And more importantly? (2) Surface prep. The surface MUST be sandblasted with A/O or red garnet of a very specific grit so that there’s the right amount of tooth. Period. This would be why cerakote is flaking right off the inside of your frame/magwells/slide after coating. Sandblasting the inside of a magwell to roughen it up isn’t a great idea, so the applicator won’t. If the surface has been prepped right, doing something like dropping the gun on gravel or having a screwdriver slip will gouge down into the finish. But it won’t chip off. Because sandblasting the inside of a magwell is a horrible idea, I don’t coat that surface. Since they did? I’m not surprised to see it flaking off.

Reloads are by far the easiest thing to make huge gains on with just a little bit of dryfire. It’s what makes Production fun.

Level 10 return spring and cup, for sure! The moment your toolhead/handle won’t stay fully raised? Buy those. A lifetime of positive spring pressure afterward. The spring is stronger and much less compressed when fully down, so it isn’t worked to death like Dillon’s. Put a light on it too.Call it good.

Level 10 return spring and cup, for sure! The monet your toolhead/handle won’t stay fully raised? Buy those. A lifetime of positive spring pressure afterward. The spring is stronger and much less compressed when fully down, so it isn’t worked to death like Dillon’s. Put a light on it. Call it good.