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IVC

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About IVC

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    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 12/13/1970

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    Temecula, CA
  • Real Name
    I. V. Cadez

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  1. ^^^ Now that's funny right there. I'll look into getting some CCIs and compare the performance. Won't go to magnum yet, at least not until I confirm that I cannot solve the problem with harder SP primers.
  2. I'll get some harder primers and try it out. I got Federals for very close to the cost of other brands - maybe $20 over for 5,000, so half a penny. They are sometimes on sale and when it coincides with "no hazmat fee" it's time to stock up. Do you change your recipe when changing primers, or do you just confirm on chrono that it's "close enough"
  3. As for component availability, I can only dream about "walking into a store" - I live in CA, behind the iron curtain. The only way for us is to order online and it's limited to reloading components now since online ammo ban went into effect this month (there is a way that some of us can still do it, but it's a workaround.)
  4. Correct - I forgot to put that down, I'm aiming for "just above 1,350 fps," which is a touch south of 10 grains of 3N38 and gives about 168 PF (still working on setting up the powder drop and getting consistency). It's not "9 major," though, so I have extra room in the case to work with slower powder (can you even make 9 major with 3N38?)
  5. My latest run (just over 50 rounds, adjusting powder measure and running through chrono) was pretty smooth. As if it took a few dozen rounds to "settle down." The dirtying of the cases also seems to have helped. At this time, I'm just getting an inverted bullet on occasion, but I couldn't replicate it by running MBF manually - a few hundred bullets ran through it while I was standing on a stool and watching and not a single one was inverted. My current hypothesis is that it has to do with the vibration related to the force applied on the upstroke. If I figure anything else out, I'll post in this thread. Thanks to everyone who posted.
  6. So, I've tried the brass that ran through a tumbler (new brass, just dry-tumbled it to spread the polish) and it's much softer running through the crimp die. My guess is that it's the correct answer, so I will get some lubricant and lightly spray the new cases to see whether that solves the problem.
  7. I have just started testing loads for my new Open gun, Infinity 38 SC, and am using just south of 10 grains of 3N38 under MG JHP 124 bullets (with completely jacketed base), loaded to 1.245 and Federal #100 primers. (I have many guns and shoot revolvers too, so I have a stash of Federal primers.) At the initial range trip, I was getting exactly the correct power factor (my recipe is straight from the horse's mouth, the gun builder), but there was an indication of very slight cratering. When I moved my fingernail over it, I couldn't "feel" it, yet it did look different from what I normally see with "standard" calibers. Is this normal? I found some threads on the topic, but they were older, so I'm not sure whether they are still relevant and whether there is some new consensus. What I found was a discussion about small rifle primers, so I figured it's better to ask, even if it's been discussed before. As a side issue, when I use the same primers in my .40 Limited loads, they tend to slightly flatten around the edges (not completely, obviously), but the firing pin imprint is very clean. For that load, I'm using again the recipe from the manufacturer, 4.7/8 grains of N310 under 180 MG FMJ (it's also an Infinity). With 38 SC it's the opposite - the edges are very "round," but the imprint doesn't seem nearly as clean.
  8. Great - thanks. I just wanted to make sure I'm not damaging anything and that it's not something that I didn't notice. Dry tumbling the brass is a very good idea - I'll give it a shot. Who would've thought I'd want to go from shiny to dull, but it makes a lot of sense. Will probably just do a small batch, say 100, to see whether it solves the problem.
  9. I'm crimping to .380, which is about .004 from how they come out from seating die. It's really strange to have the crimping die feel this way, almost as if the brass has sharp outside edges and is somehow catching on the inside of the die. Good to hear about MBF - I'll just keep adjusting it until I get it to be more and more consistent. It looks like heavier and larger bullets are easier to feed.
  10. My new Open gun arrived recently so I set up a conversion toolhead for 38 SC (it was set up for .40) and loaded some initial rounds for testing. I'm running into all sorts of smaller issues, so I figured I ask before doing anything wrong. Setup: SVI 5" Open gun, 10 grains of 3N38, new Starline brass, Federal #100 primers, 124 .MG JHP bullets at .355 (confirmed to match my chamber), loading to 1.245 OAL and crimping to about .380. When using MBF funnel, it seems to either get stuck in the case and requires effort to move the handle up, or it doesn't flair the mouth enough. It is as if the shape of the funnel is such that it will stick before it gets to expand the mouth. I looked at it on the upstroke and if I set it up to the minimum where the bullets can be seated correctly, it gets quite sticky. MBF itself had some issues with flipping bullets in the collator. I had to move the shims out quite a bit and I recently just noticed one upside-down bullet in the tube. Is MBF more finicky with "smaller pointy bullets" compared to the FMJ 180-s in .40 that seemed to have no issues? I'll monitor and keep adjusting, just wondering if there is any trick to it. Also, it will on occasion drop two bullets even though I pushed it to the earliest point where it will release a bullet. I had the assembly touch the powder drop so it was causing issues, but even after setting up much more carefully, it will act up on occasion. The biggest issue is likely a die issue - I'm using Redding crimping die with micrometer and for some reason it seems to "suck" on the round much worse than the MBF funnel. On the upstroke, it feels as if something is being pulled hard and then it gives with the similar snap as when the MBF funnel releases. I took the die out, checked it for proper orientation, cleaned it up with a brush and couldn't notice anything unusual. Has anyone had similar problem with any of the dies? As I'm pulling handle, there are two stations that seem to be preventing smooth operation - the powder measure and the crimp. Any input or insights are greatly appreciated.
  11. Prepping the trigger on a revolver or DA gun is quite different from even touching a light SA trigger. Most importantly, there must be a specific point in time/space where one starts the prepping process, much like disengaging the safety on a single action. That moment defines the point where the gun is pointed in safe direction and must be very well defined. Start rushing it and you'll send a round into the ground at some point. As for revolver shooting, the trigger is prepped during recoil and transitions, nothing wrong with that. It keeps the cylinder moving and speeds up follow up shots. Messing up the exact moment a round goes off is no different than messing up the timing of the press of a SA trigger during transition.
  12. That was my thought too - very fast, little room for error and decreased case volume. I am actually not even that concerned with making the PF as I would be just loading to use up the bullets I have at hand, possibly see if I can tell/feel the difference. I guess I'll just keep the 200's for now and not push my luck, especially since I don't want to tinker with the toolhead setup that I have just dialed in (I'm new to reloading). It will become a project for some later time or some different press. Thanks for the input.
  13. Thanks for the info - I'm concerned because I use a very fast powder so the velocity by itself doesn't tell the whole story. The pressure is spiking internally before the bullet is propelled and I don't know how much room for maneuvering I have with both heavier projectile and the smaller case space.
  14. Thanks - I'll look into it. I think I'm getting to the point where I can benefit quite a bit from more advanced technique books.
  15. This makes sense and I can see how it factors into the problem - a small misalignment in sights won't create a delta or mike if the aim was at the center. Aim at the "color blob" and you can be close enough to the edge where you miss even if you see it correctly. However, it also answers the question of calling shots with imprecise sight alignment - the imperfection is a feature, not a bug, so adjust the aim to take it into account instead of trying to get a better sight picture (much slower). In other words, accept the imperfect sight picture and practice such that its effect is under control. It gives the new and deeper meaning to the "acceptable sight picture," where it's not just that the sight picture doesn't have to be perfect, but it must be accompanied by a very solid index and aim if it is not to be detrimental. I'm beginning to see the light (pattern) here. Thanks guys.
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