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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Salsantini

  • Rank
    Looks for Match
  • Birthday 10/15/1964

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  • Location
    Rosemont, PA
  • Interests
    I have been an active shooter my whole adult life. Started shooting CMP in my early 20's. Back in 2009 I decided to become a better pistol shooter. I joined a new club that has a very active pistol program. In 2015 I discovered USPSA and like the sport very much. I am an NRA certified pistol instructor and with other instructors teach the NRA classes at my local shooting club
  • Real Name
    Joe Scenna

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  1. Agree. This will work. I have used the Glock blue extra power striker spring and it works fine.
  2. Didn't think of that! I do Have an H bar in the pistol. The original bar the pistol came with has no Markings. I found an extra bar in my stash Marked S. I will try the S marked one an see how that works. Have you ever seen a bar unmarked?
  3. I replaced the trigger bar with a new one. The tip is straight and I did not polish any material off of this trigger bar. The limiting factor Is the Agency trigger. It is at its most rearward position and the striker block is not fully depressed.
  4. The Agency kit uses the Apex FSS sear internals with Agency's trigger. I am disappointed this didn't work in my pistol. By far this is the best set up for the M&P pistol.
  5. I've had an Agency Arms FSS trigger kit in my 5" M&P pro for a while. The trigger kit is amazing. The issue is that it does not always fire. I've played with the adjustment of the trigger loop. In my pistol when the trigger is fully pressed to the rear it won't quite push up the striker block completely. It fires most of the time , but it is not consistent. I've adjusted the loop to the rear most point for the sear to still release. Tried putting the original striker block back in since it engages earlier. Still the same issue. Time to go back to the standard trigger with the Apex sear.
  6. I carry a PPQ. It is a very comfortable pistol to shoot and has a nice trigger with a short reset.
  7. Not much else. I put a fiber optic site in the front an a 10-8 rear sight.
  8. Sorry. Should have bee more specific. I took it to the point I no longer felt creep.
  9. I did this to my M&P Pro. I took some 400 grit sand paper and put it on a flat surface. Then made a few passes of the top of the sear over the sandpaper. Put the sear back and tested it. It took a few time repeating this process to get it to the point I liked. Then I used 2000 grit sandpaper to smooth the sear. Do a little at a time.
  10. Salsantini

    VP9 B!!!

    I got to handle one last week at the local gun shop. It was easy to manipulate the mag release. Well placed.
  11. I have three Kimbers. The frame, Slide, and barrels are fine. Had all three rebuilt. Replaced all the MiM parts.
  12. I've recently been shooting a Walther PPQ 5". good for both IDPA SSP and USPSA Production divisions. The pistol has a very good trigger out of the box and has a comfortable grip.
  13. Ok. So I reworked the trigger bar guide. I took some 440 then 1500 then 2000 grit sand paper and redid the trigger bar guide. I finished off the polish with a Dremel using a felt tip and Flitz polishing compound. The trigger pull now feels smooth. I the first time around I did not pay much attention to the trigger bar guide.
  14. Did you only polish the trigger bar? Or did you polish the trigger bar and the trigger bar guide? I'm thinking it has something to do with the guide.
  15. It is rough with the slide off. It was ok before I polished the parts. When I push the trigger bar down so it no longer touches the trigger bar guide It feels smooth. so I don't think it is the frame. The roughness seems to be when the two parts interact. Before polishing it was ok. After it is rough. I used a felt tip with my Dremel and Flitz to polish. I think I will order replacements. Install them and see if it goes back to the original condition.
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