MemphisMechanic

Start with your big 40+ round stick in the gun. Run a longer mag pouch (I use the one from CODA. Nerd makes a good one too) across the belt buckle like an Open shooter with a 33rd in it. That’s the only place you *should* ever have to reload from, if the gun runs 100% Toss a shorter mag or two on your hip. I run a pair of G17 mags with +5s on them just for that day when things don’t run so flawlessly, but I’ve never needed them. No need for thigh mounted things on slings.

Was it a bolt-on Hard Charger? https://devildogconcepts.com/product/hard-charger/ Or an internal side charger?

This. Run a sight with a much better retention system.

Heavy guns are stable on long shots Lighter guns transition faster, and are easier to maneuver & snap back up to your shoulder after rounding a corner at a full sprint. USPSA PCC doesn’t feature 40+ yard shots (outside of PCC-only matches.) You’re shooting handgun targets, placed handgun close. You can get a light gun (mine is 6lb 0.5oz) to shoot more than flat enough. Yes, it recoils more than a heavy gun... but so what? Forget about chasing soft and build a fast flat shooting one.

they display just fine for me. (On an iPhone using Firefox.)

“Lumps of coal for the kid’s stockings.”

Don’t be conservative with the roughing up / grinding down. The only way this process fails is if you don’t create enough tooth on the frame for the epoxy to stick to. Otherwise it is pretty idiot proof. For places where I want to build up the dimensions, I just grind every trace of the current stipple-ish texture off, so that even the low spots have been hit with a sanding drum. As opposed to actually thinning the grip at that spot. Carve into it, then acetone or brake cleaner to degrease, and handle it with latex gloves while masking / applying epoxy. Then pack silicon carbide into it. Pretty straightforward. And do not use 5min epoxy. Slow cure is the name of the game here.

It adds roughly 1/16” per side. The gun will grow a pinch over 1/8” if you just rough it up then slather it on. I prefer to grind down into the frame then build it back up with black JB Weld and 60gr S/C from amazon. 60 has been more than enough texture for the sweatiest southern match day. It’d take the skin off you if you try to carry the gun IWB in a couple steps.

It’s sand. It’s quite literally harder than steel. I’ve never needed to refresh mine to restore grit. Just spend a good bit of time scrubbing skin and dirt out of the low pockets between the grits with an old toothbrush every year or two for maximum grip.

In the southeast, I’ve had talon... stipple... and silicon carbide. On the same gun, no less. Go silicon carbide. It’s not even close to any kind of a contest.

Google is a powerful tool. That’s it. N320 is pretty damn stable. I wouldn’t worry about ammo loaded with it fluctuating very widely.

Remove material from the front of the ramp on the sear, so that the trigger has to move further to the rear before the striker is released. Simple modification which will give the travel needed for the striker block to be fully depressed into the slide.

I got a 1.2 (!) using Prima V under a coated 124 with CCI primers. I had to do the math by hand because four rounds in a row were exactly 1,081 fps... and the chrono kept rejecting them as duplicates. Oh. And I was using mixed, random, worn out brass.

Change powders. The way a particular powder burns in a particular caliber is by far the biggest factor in standard deviation. Sarge loves telling everyone to sort by headstamp. ... and it does result in match-grade ammo, to be sure. But remember that thousands of us have figured out how to load accurate reliable ammo without doing so, so don’t despair. You are aware than 231 is temperature sensitive too, right? On a cold day you’ll lose noticeable velocity. Personally I’m shaking my head at your “some of my rounds might go sub-165” mindset. I keep it simple, and make sure my slowest rounds are 5 points over the power factor floor. With more consistent velocities from a better powder choice, that will hopefully mean all of your ammo stays within a 170-174 pf window. Every single bullet. Personally, I load a 147 to 135pf for Production with an SD of 7 to 8 using Prima V. My *slow* rounds are 133 power factor. It’s very accurate, and nearly as soft as any of the risky 128pf loads that guys are running out there. This powder is also reverse temperature sensitive, and I did all that load development on a 95 degree day. It’s actually faster here in the winter.

The benefit is that your 5th or 6th mag pouch isn’t centered on your spine. Bullets out pouches take up much less real estate on the belt. I tried it for six months and went back to bullets forward. No amount of dryfire would stop me from gripping the mag the old way under stress, so I eventually stopped trying to push water uphill.

He’s baiting you so he can talk about “fantastic outlaw three gun style” matches.

No it has not. Shoot a 16” gun, or a registered SBR.

I’m guessing you wear something like a DAA competition belt, which have a very wimpy inner belt but a very stiff outer. The Shooters Connection belt features an inner belt which is rigid enough for carry of a fullsize PPQ without deflecting. I do it all the time. The DAA inner is more comgortable. The SC inner is better for carrying things on your hip outside of match environments.

fixed.

<post deleted, misread dates>

Might be helpful to post these in one place as we find them.

Mark the grip and the holster’s block with sharpie, and do a few reps to see where the two are engaging each other. (Brake cleaner and most bore solvents cause sharpie ink to wipe right off you parts afterward ) Hopefully it’s something a few passes of a file can remedy!

@NETim don’t worry. You’ll actually break it plenty of times. Mine was probably down while waiting for a part at least half a dozen times in 8 years. Dillon always comes through with free parts, though.

Grip the case rim in a pair of vise grips (tight as hell) and try to get it to spin, then gently rotate & rock it back out. Failing that, drill and tap the primer pocket to thread in a bolt so you can use THAT to pull the case out. I’ve had to do both.