MemphisMechanic

If it works with CCI, I’d be willing to buy one. CCIs are so much more consistently *round* than winchester and are usually the cheapest option available amongst the major players in the USA. Take the hit in the form of 4 to 6 ounces of extra pull weight in your hammer-fired production or CO gun, and set it up to eat anything. I’ve never understood the desire to have the lightest possible trigger and wind up with a picky little princess of a firearm. My experience with the finicky Vibraprime led me to quickly stop buying federals and Winchesters, when cheaper CCIs glide right through it. That obviously colors my thinking when it comes to this more complicated machine.

@sergeantbernie if you’re unwilling to fire all 11 rounds in your gun, you cut down on stage planning options severely. (It’s not something you want to do often, but I usually find myself using the slide release at least once a match.) Sometimes, being aggressive enough to take an extra steel or paper will open up options further in the stage, or delete a reload. Other times you get the chance to do it twice in a row and delete an entire position. That might just make for a stage win... as seen here by my friend Garran at 2018 TN State: (He’s an 18 year old who took 6th overall in 2019’s Production Nationals.)

This. No. *ACTUALLY* this. This means that you do not get to slow down between targets or linger after a shot is fired for any reason. Even if you shot a delta, when you’re working on transitions exclusively? It means exclusively. In a blake drill alphas are nice, but nailing the transition between targets is mandatory. It’s okay to shoot bad hits when learning to do something twice as fast as you currently do. You need to learn how fast you can snap the gun to the next target. Work until you make that something normal to accomplish. Then you work on putting accuracy and your newfound speed together. You really can get your hits without slowing down. You just haven’t pushed yourself to do so, yet. Transition example: Here’s a stage I somewhat messed up, but which has a good example of what we’re talking about. Split/transition times smooth and consistent between shots on open paper inthe first array. The only hitch is the transition onto the noshoot target which got an extra tenth so that I could confidently place holes away from the white, inside the A.

@Bravester12 where are you located? Odds are high that someone local to you is active here. And shooters are the best guys out there: if you’re interested in the sport they’ll likely be happy to meet you at a match and show you the ropes. I have yet to see a local match happen where a new guy wasn’t given the chance to shoot a competitor’s gun - or several - if they hung around and showed interest.

@cking @Les Snyder My sequence of events: Began having issues with empty brass inside the upper when the bolt returned forward several times per mag. Facing all kinds of different directions. Played with ammo PF and buffer spring. Destroked gun. No change. Replaced ejector spring with a factory AR-15 5.56 one. No change. Replaced extractor spring with a BCM extra power one, which I clipped a coil off of for some reason I forget. Gun began to choke MUCH more often. Installed a factory BCM extra power extractor extractor spring, using a C-lamp to align everything while inserting the pin. 1,500 rounds since then without a jam. Including returning to lighter PF (140pf 147s) ammo, and a heavy buffer and spring.

DPP 2.5 MOA here. Same thing. Run it all day, replace battery once a year.

That’s one of the best ways to break it down that I’ve ever heard. It really is and should be driven by what you’re seeing the sights do as the gun fires. Are you SEEING the sight jerk offcenter as the gun fires? Or are you keeping the sights centered... <BIGLOUDTHINGHAPPENS>... and then a hole appears offcenter? One of the gotchas is that it’s difficult to truly make dramatic improvements on grip and trigger control until your eyes stay open and you are fully observing the sights lift in recoil. Guys are trying to work on the nuances of grip pressure when they still haven’t gotten rid of the blink/flinch. And you can’t direct a behavior that you aren’t honestly seeing yet. I’m a strong proponent of (1) using subsonic ammo if possible and (2) always double-plugging when you’re a C-class or lower and trying to get good.

Why waste time questioning customized race-mods on ‘Production’ guns when answer is always yes these days?

Accelerator will be a good drill. You also need to work on the blake drill and/or el prez in dry AND live fire to hustle those transitions. They’re hurting you too. When you run a drill like distance changeup you need to run the hit factors some of the time to prove it to yourself that patience on the splits in back is *genuinely* better for your score than rushing the second shot. Simple version of the goal: take more time on the second shot at 10+ yards so it consistently lands somewhere you actually picked up the front sight for, then get the gun to the next target faster - and nearly have the same overall time with much better hits string, after string, after string. Oh, and on spitting distance targets you can split FASTER than you currently do if your grip pressure is up to par.

This. But also I second the KE Arms SLT. Pretty good feeling trigger, but most importantly it has no conventional sear to get smashed by the hammer coming back. You’ll see a huge reduction of stress on the disconnector, and without the stress from the hammer coming back into it? You should stop breaking pins. I’ve run one. It does what they claim. There’s an interesting and unique feel to it, but it’s not long and it’s not heavy.

Yeah, that’s fun when it lands handle-down and rolls somewhere unexpected and out of the intended path.

Watch the videos with your eyes closed. Whether it’s a 15yd target with a perilous noshoot, or a wide open one two feet away... you shoot the exact same cadence. Think about that. Then close your eyes and watch footage of a top GM shoot, and think about it some more. Additionally, run faster. Get the gun up earlier as you come in, and get much more comfortable with reloads on the move so they’re done much earlier.

Yes. You can get a stamp in a few weeks nowdays. Put a real stock on the buffer tube so the USPSA guys are happy (and so it performs better than with a marginally decent shoulder weld from a brace.) Shoot it 100% legally with zero other modifications. The only thing to know is that you have to notify the gov’t if you take an SBR to another state. If you live near a state line and you frequently shoot matches there, or you travel to a lot of majors? It’s better to turn the gun into a 16” barrel rifle.

If he only plans to shoot matches in his own state, why not SBR it?

Were those ALL makeup shots when you shot 80% of the targets 4 times, instead of 3? Rule #1 with PCC: Never begin without enough to shoot the entire stage carried on your belt. Someday the starting mag in the gun will go down, you’ll fire tons of makeups, or have a serious malfunction. You will need it eventually.

Definitely. (And this is coming from a Walther guy.) Personally, if king for a day, I’d set the production and SSP weight limits to whatever lets a Beretta 92FS or a factory CZ-75B play, but which ruled out the heavyweight guns with rails... including the original Shadow. So that, you know, actual guns people carried on duty or might wear concealed were closer to the upper end of the choices in these divisions. Want to shoot a heavy race gun? Excellent. We have ESP in one sport, and Limited/Open in the other.

If we’re honest about it, there’s nothing stock nor production about these guns. They were custom designed to squeeze just within the rules of specific divisions in USPSA/IPSC. They are *absolutely* race guns... they’re just built for the stock-ish division instead of Open. <Devil’s Advocate>

A good friend of mine took 6th overall in Production at Nationals with a Shadow 2. He’s won a big match or two shooting factory 115gr ammo this year, although I think his brother loaded some 147s for Nats. Ben Stoeger does somewhat okay with factory ammo, as well. (AKA he wins a whole stinking lot.)

Agree with Matt. At 20 you’re pushing the follower out of the tube and down into the basepad. I always round the bottom of my followers and/or file a bevel on the top of the basepad to assist that transition. Sometimes you just need to load the mag to 20ish and slam the bottom of the pad on a stout table to bounce / drive the follower down past the jump. Usually if you do that a few times with a mag it isn’t necessary anymore. Usually. I never had to do it with Walther tubes and extensions, but your mileage may vary.

Do it. Great guns and the only brand you know will ALWAYS run.

Saul, I will certainly say this: No matter what people might say about their frustration with a DAA product, a great many companies in the gun community could take lessons from you when it comes to customer service.

Hell. If legal... I’d enjoy letting you do it and pretend that it’s anywhere near as fast as it will be coming from the belt.

Hmm.

I load 5-10k on a 1050 between cleanings. I don’t own an RF100 for the reasons you cited. But then you just tripped yourself up, fanboy. Their entire marketing strategy was that this machine would be a cure all the problems of the RF100 at half the cost. Instead it’s a thin Chinese plastic machine that has the same problems the Dillon unit does. I have lots of things from DAA. Some of their stuff is fantastic (my bulletfeeder is terrific) and some of it needs work, like the racer mag pouches I own 10 of.

DAA, machine this out of aluminum, polish every surface, and charge $450-550 for one that works flawlessly when filthy. If it’s VibraPrime or Racer-mag-pouch quality plastic, there’s no way I’d buy something for a mechanized task such as this. If it won’t feed 10,000 filthy primers without cleaning, it’s not fit for ownership by competitive shooters with 1050s. Build it as well as the PAL filler, and I’ll buy one tomorrow.