MemphisMechanic

Boom.

I'd tell you that this is a correct yet much more advanced approach to things... and that you're in the beginners forum.

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/631990722

I'm glad it's useful. I'm getting really close to doing a "how to Tanfo for Production" tutorial video though. A lot of the Bible info is great if you're not interested in spending the $$$ on Patriot Defense parts, but I'd like to have some of that stuff in there too. In other words, it's somewhat outdated since the largest aftermarket parts supplier for springs and action parts in the Production class guns? Well, PD wasn't making anything for Tanfoglio guns when I put that list together.

I figured they would be. It's hard to make yourself knowingly aim at the border of the C zone at first. Aiming at a spot where you're still able to shoot fast and will probably have to eat some Cs in return for the speed is much more consistent. Hitting a noshoot results in a 10 point penalty, so go ahead and peel two good Alphas off of another target in your mind. In addition to that, if you didn't make it up, you're missing the 5 points you would have gotten for an A... plus another 10 point penalty for the miss (mike). Shooting a target with a score of Alpha/Mike/Noshoot is the same as having shot five fewer As in that stage. It hurts. Tons. Keep the holes you punch WELL clear of the white targets.

You're desiring to build this in .40 for USPSA Limited, correct?

Well @Dutchman195 it's six targets with four holes in them each. That's 120 possible points right? Shoot it in 30 seconds with perfect accuracy and you're at a hit factor of 4. Explains all the guys dropping points and shooting it in 20-25 with HFs in the 3's for sure.

That's because you shoot the Cadillac division. Sell those Rolls Royce blasters and come slumming down in Production with us, where $800 worth of Glock stuff can win you the title as long as you don't mind having an aneurism planning a bajillion mag changes. Then you'll be able to travel first class anytime you like. (okay okay, we all know you really "need" $2K worth of Tanfoglio in Production, but play along...)

You stick the gun into every port too. Backing up just 6 inches will let you arrive with the gun fully extended like Charlie suggested. I find the most common reason guys go with "arrive, stop, see target, extend gun, shoot, retract gun, THEN exit" is because they're so close they can't get their gun out until they are in the port. Coming in with your gun up and out will make you step back a foot, but arriving and leaving can now be started before you mount or dismount the gun.

The big thing that also helps is to ask the GM (after he has shot and doesn't need to focus) why he did things the way he did. And follow that up with "how would you suggest a B class shoot it?" The upper level guys get really good at playing to their strengths. A guy who is supremely accurate might hang back and shoot something from the back. The next M or GM who is really good at shooting on the move and hosing at warp speed might divide the same stage up entirely differently. What is interesting about that is how frequently their scores will nearly match.

Yes. You have the mag capacity that matches Limited's, and the ability to take longer shots on partial targets due to the dot like the Open guys do. So learn from both.

First off, even in Production you get 60% of the points for a fast safe C-zone hit that's a foot away from the noshoot, rather than trying to snake them into the Alpha right next to it. Posting up and meticulously placing two Alphas in the center of the available A-zone is what we all do when we're new. It frequently gives up most of the benefit to your score because it takes so much extra time when it does pay off, and when it doesn't pay off you hit the noshoot. The typical advice you'll get from a highly skilled competitor will be to hold in these locations:

In Production you can't modify external parts at all. However if you very very very slightly break the edges with a file so that they're just slightly silver but not visibly rounded? It's going to look exactly like every Tanfo with a hundred USPSA matches under it's belt does. Just saying.

What John said. For an even shorter and crisper trigger you can go all out and outfit the gun with a Titan hammer and bolo to delete the pretravel and let you run an even lighter hammer spring... But unless you are absolutely obsessed with the lightest possible trigger, it isn't needed to get the gun down to a light smooth pull. Places to look for parts: henningshop.com patriotdefense.com benstoegerproshop.com

I load dummy rounds then run a drill bit clean through both sides of the case, so that it's easy to see that my dummies aren't live ammo as each one is loaded into a mag, even if I got lazy visually inspecting each for lack of a primer. All live ammo is put away during dryfire session, obviously.

If they want to make it real life, can we drop back to the original 0.3 sec per point down... and if you plug a noshoot then you have to sign over your car and home to IDPA, in simulation to what the lawyers might do to you? (I'd love to see a 30 second noshoot penalty, all jokes aside. I think THAT would be a very interesting change in tactics for us gamers.)

Did you do your own work on the Stock 2? Much of the same should apply to the Pavona, I'd imagine. Very similar mechanism.

How to move with a PCC: He just won nationals. Study up! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSu1aXNpFlKbxLs7Pk0U0qQ The main thing I see him doing differently than most is snapping the stock up over his shoulder instantly as he gets ready to exit, and exploding left or right. Most guys take a lumbering step back, whereas he's already gone.

Get someone to film you. You think you run faster than them. It feels fast, really fast. But brace yourself: you're going to see video of yourself jogging casually. Strolling moreso than sprinting. Get video of yourself as soon as you can. Newbies take forever to enter and exit, forever to transition to the next target , and they jog but don't know it... that's it. That's where the time goes. Into all the NON trigger pulling stuff.

Buy Ben's book, or Steve Anderson's. Do the drills. You'll get noticeably better in two weeks. I heavily advocate learning to dryfire by doing 15-20 minutes a day 5-7 days a week at first. A common trap is to do it for two hours and get sore and feel satisfied... and then not do it again for many days. Do shorter dryfire sessions so that you're still hungry to continue when you quit for the day. It'll make you practice tomorrow! Shorter practices 7 days a week also generate much more rapid improvement than long practice sessions done once a week.

@sundevil827 has it right. D to B is easy, although it takes longer if you don't practice - or at least shoot a lot of matches. You work on the non-trigger-pulling things and get those down. The low hanging fruit, if you will. Draws. Reloads. Running fast. You can make B with lots of speed and relatively little accuracy. B class is where most casual shooters top out. Those who don't practice, and don't usually shoot at all aside from their local matches. (The good news about that is that if you dryfire and work on just getting you gunhandling, running, and entering / exiting really fast, B comes quickly.) Getting to A is where you have to combine accuracy with the speed of a good B class shooter and really fine tune everything. Most shooters can't get into A without some form of regular practice... which is also why most As eventually progress to M. They're the kind of guys who are willing to put the work in during the week, identifying their weaknesses and working them hard.

No one who is serious about USPSA cares about looks. (Although I'm planning to cerakote my gun mostly so that no one has a clue what the hell it is...) I shoot a Stock 3, I look forward to someone locally showing up with a Shadow 2 for me to play with.

You say he shot over the top of a barrel. then you imply that he shot into the barrel. Which one happened?

Wolff 14 or PD? What else is in the gun? PD firing pin spring factory? a Titan or Delta hammer... or factory? Bolo? Factory firing pin or Henning? I'm a big advocate for removing the firing pin block until you're done tuning the gun. I shot local matches for more than three months without it. Just to delete it as a possible problem to troubleshoot. A gun that has a reamed chamber, Titan/Bolo etc and factory of PD firing pin... can generally run *fully* seated Winchester primers on a 12 pound PD spring. Some prefer to run a 13 for insurance. With a more factory-optioned gun, a PD 14 is probably a good choice. I suggest you carefully, meticulously check your primer depths first. With these guns... flush is not seated well enough. That's how you load for a 1911 or striker fired gun. With a DA/DS gun that has light springs? Flush is a high primer waiting to go click. If you're chasing a light trigger, bury those Winchesters well below flush. If you're not chasing a light trigger and want more striking force with less QC needed on your ammo, switch to a heavier hammer spring.

I can't see how that's production legal - at least for the time being.