MemphisMechanic

If you aren't familiar with what and where to polish, it's a good idea to run a few hundred rounds through it first. That way you'll be able to see where things are contacting due to the wear marks.

What grips are on your Tanfoglio? Suggest some Hennings (thin) or EGDs (ultra thin) as a modification. If you know someone with one, an M&P with the small backstrap has proven to be most popular doublestack autoloader with petite female hands by far. Glock bad, Beretta Bad, SIG bad, Tanfo bad. CZ and 1911 with very thin grips... good. M&P even better.

Make sure all of your ammo passes Plunk and spin - particularly if the barrel hasn't been reamed. Which spring are you using? I don't recall what is in your gun, but with a Titan and Bolo setup... A 13lb PD spring runs Winchesters perfectly in my gun.

@tedahlenius85... I think this depends largely on the waist contour, thigh shape, and perhaps natural stance of the shooter in question. My BOSS hanger rests firmly against my pants at that point without a spacer installed there. To the point I've thought before that "I'm glad the screws don't stick out or I'd be wearing holes in my clothes."

What benefit exactly are you looking for here? Run an 11-13 pound spring of profile and captured status that you find that you like (I bought all 3 and settled on a 13 with my preferred load) and learn to grip the gun with about four times the pressure of your average shooter... and go run several thousand rounds through it without changing anything You'll shoot it pretty well after that.

Agreed on the Teklock. My boss hands dead vertical with a heavy 45oz all-steel Tanfoglio in it. All of these style of hangers need be bolted to your belt and clamped down hard.

I guess I'm just less OCD than some, since I know that guy. We all know that guy. He never seems to win much of anything. Usually because he's too busy figuring out how to game the crap out of the start position while the winner is quietly visualizing how he'll engage the targets. So it doesn't bother me when guys do that stuff. There's no actual advantage to it anyway.

When, oh when, will we get Optimized grip screws? Lightweight for those looking to save 1/200th Oz for Carry Optics. Tungsten for those looking to make their gun heavier and mitigate recoil.

I know Sevigny did. I dryfired the gun he won GA State with back in the 2008-10 timeframe. "Griiiiitttttt-kachink!" with about five or six pounds of effort in his 34. I think he only won by about 20% over the competing GMs and Ms with their slicked up triggers.

If it bothers you, just make sure your MD specifies "both feet outside the shooting area" and then everyone will be equal and unhappy as a team.

You have to polish it until it looks like wet chrome afterward, though. Remember, if you don't polish everything part on a Tanfoglio, the gun won't run.

See above. You can thin the diameter of the head by chucking the threads in a drill and using a dremel or sandpaper to grind the sides down a bit. A redneck lathe.

Why not? I got a pair a while back similar to that which had a head too fat to recess down into the scales grips. Chucked it into a drill and held a dremel against it to thin them down, then polished them up nice and shiny the same way.

The "standard" EAA sear is actually preferred over the Xtreme sear. Fewer casting defects.

Sorry. I deliberately forgot SS was a thing. Again.

PHRASING!

With the .140 I see some slide in the notch if the front post is even slightly elevated. It barely disappears. A .120 might show in the notch with a proper sight picture

The .140 tall is the ticket IMO. I still have a good bit of "down" travel left, but it keeps the rear sight nice and low. I believe I only needed 6-10 clicks of adjustment to zero the gun after installing the .140 front. In a theoretical sense center of travel is perfect. But that back sight is fragile. Anything that'll help it hold up (like more thread engagement and spring pressure against the detents) is a good thing in my book.

This is normal, just so you're aware. First you learned to tell if the shot went true or if you shanked it into the rough. But you had no idea where a bad shot landed. Then you learn to tell which direction your shot was thrown off-center, but not really how far. This is where you're currently at. Over time the "I know it went somewhere in here!" circle that you could walk downrange and draw on the target? It will shrink to a smaller and smaller diameter. I can currently call most of my shots within the accuracy of a 4" circle, I would estimate. However that still leaves a lot of "was that a C or a D?" wiggle room and I'm working to improve it. Try something: intentionally misalign the sights (front post touching left side of notch, etc) and shoot the gun with a meticulously perfect trigger press. Do this at various distances to see how far up/down/left/right the bullet actually goes. I routinely have new shooters do that at 7 yards. At that distance you cannot miss the A zone with a sight picture involving the fiber *anywhere* in the front notch. It's part of learning that your trigger finger, grip, and flinching make you miss - not a failure to focus on the front sight. Until you learn what kind of misalginment leads to a hit in the D or C at 12 yards, you don't have any kind of reference to use when calling your shots.

At USPSA matches every single serious competitior I've seen with a gun setup for CO either has no irons on the gun, or they have a front post only. If you plan to use the gun outside of cardboard punching, that's going to be different. But we're talking about gaming guns here.

Weigh a large random sample of every bullet brand you load before shooting a major with them. For instance, the 150gr SWC from Bayou consistently weighs 147-147.5 grains.

Jacketed? good. Coated? good. Plated? (Berry's, Ranier, Xtreme) garbage.

Interesting. I bought my 650 in 2008 as well, and broke my first indexing ring this January. My round count overall is much lower though - probably between 50 and 75k. Did the same thing you did: detail stripped and cleaned the press.

Figured. Novices do that, and it actually takes them longer to plan. 1. Locate all the targets. No no - ALL the targets. Walk around behind the stage looking for sneaky hidden ones, and locate all the targets which are either available from multiple places or which require shooing from exactly one spot. 2. Figure out a clean simple path through the stage where you shoot them all from as close as you can get to them. You're new. Go with simple plans over complicated ones (that require things like long shots on the move). If you're up first? Pick a plan you can memorize quickly and execute perfectly 10 times in 10. 3. Figure out the order to shoot the targets in each position. While going through the stage for this step, begin to think about your footwork. 4. A quick look at how many shots are required in each location will tell you where your reloads need to go. It's also a good idea to know how many spare rounds you'll have available for makeup shots throughout the course. So you plan by going through the stage in layers.

Oh. So it's more likely an "age of gun" thing.