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Stealsack

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About Stealsack

  • Rank
    Looks for Match

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bellingham, WA
  • Interests
    Other than shooting various matches?
    Sailing, diving, and flying
  • Real Name
    Todd Epps

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  1. Stealsack

    2011 slide replacement questions

    Thanks Broncman, I don't do a ton of mill work, but what I do is typically small detailed items. I also have several friends that are machinists by profession. If I wreck a slide, it won't be the end of the world. That said, I hope to be careful enough to sneak up on the tolerances until I'm happy. I'm probably more likely to wreck the third item I work on, at that point I will think I know what I'm doing... I don't have the nifty drawing with me, but zzt guessed right, the rail width is indeed .755, the rail hight is .118 and the rail is .1 thick The existing slide is .216 to the top of the way, the way is .103 tall and .113 from the bottom of the slide to the bottom of the way. While I have a fair kit of measuring devices, my buddy has ALL the goodies. Given the info you guys have provided, I'll order up the Caspian unless someone has more to add?
  2. Stealsack

    2011 slide replacement questions

    My thanks to you both! Drew: I have slowly learned patience over the years, so your words are well taken. I have learned the art of "walking away to process". Painfully. I can work out how to do most things with a mill, but I am by no means quick about it. I am always humbled by watching my friends (professionals) setup a new job. zzt: I understand your point. My buddy has the barrel jig, so I will certainly use that to fit the barrel. I had planned on using the lug cutter and dressing from there. I may have to revisit that plan. As to end mills, I am not frugal with them. I don't do enough work to try to stretch their life. I am always happy to put a new cutter on the mill.
  3. Stealsack

    2011 slide replacement questions

    Darth: Thanks for the input! Mike: No doubt caution is warranted, but he really didn't answer my question, did he? Thanks Drewbeck, you have given that advice to others on this forum, and I have taken it to heart. If all I wanted was a functioning gun for the best price I would have it done by a pro, I just like to tinker. It is worth it to me to spend the money to learn, even if it costs some expensive parts. I'm not adverse to spending the money as long as I get something from it, and frankly fitting the slide and barrel does not look terribly difficult to me (probably a warning sign). I've been reading the Jerry Kuhnhousen shop manuals and there is a TON of good information in there about timing and fitting the barrel. I have the tooling/micrometers except the specific gunsmith tools which are not all that costly. I have a mill and lathe though I will likely do all of the fitting by hand the first try. Slow for me means I'm less likely to make a mistake, and I'm not in a hurry. Once I think I have the process down, I might try one with power tools. I'm NOT interested in making mistakes that can be reasonably avoided by asking questions of you fellow DIY guys who have been there and done that. Zzt: Thanks very much, that is exactly the information I was looking for/concerned about. The gunsmith that I talked to had your exact opinion of the STI vs Caspian slide. He does not use STI unless the customer specifically requests it. I will size up my frame and see what I have. I'm happy to use the Caspian if it will do the job. My thanks to you both for taking the time to answer so many questions from so many folks on the forum, it has provided much useful information!
  4. Stealsack

    2011 slide replacement questions

    That's a great point. I will be fitting the slide myself. I have been doing a lot of reading and thanks in part to this forum, I am comfortable with doing that part of the work. As to fitting the barrel, we shall see. I may or may not take that on. I probably will, then have the work checked by a smith.
  5. I cracked the slide on my old school STI limited 2011. So, you know, I did the responsible thing and ordered a new gun. Now that I have the new limited gun, I'm thinking I should replace the slide with a 9mm upper for shooting steel. I like the brazos milled/lightened slide and plan to go that way. They sell a Caspian and STI with the design I like. My question is should I order the Caspian slide or the STI? Are both slides oversized the same amount in the same dimensions, or should I stick with the STI for a likely closer match? Thoughts on barrels? My original barrel is a Schumann and I was happy with it, but they seem to be having issues. KKM then, or?
  6. Stealsack

    Cleaned compensator

    Is that mix safe to use on aluminum? About the same soak time?
  7. Stealsack

    2011 Grip/Thumbs/WTF is going on

    ^ This! The difference in feel for me (with the STI DVC) between light bullets and 180gn is night and day. I loaded a mag with some older factory ammo and was shocked at the snappy feel compared to my reloads. Some folks like that, but I much prefer the feel of the heavier bullet.
  8. Stealsack

    P320 X5 Thread

    Great to hear! I did shoot a steel match with it last weekend. ~160 rounds. Nary a single hiccup shooting 132pf reloads with the stock springs on a brand new gun. I did buy a new guide rod and spring to see if I can drop the power factor down to 127. I decided it was worth waiting until I get the new trigger before shooting it much more. When we did a quick test of reloads on my buddies new x5, it didn't quite get the empty brass clear on two of 10 test loads at 130pf. 132 worked fine. I expect that with 500+ rounds or so it will allow me to drop the PF a bit more.
  9. Stealsack

    9mm reload occasional light report

    I might just be lucky, but I spray the top "layer" of brass lightly in the bin that I reload from and use them after a minute or two. This method sprays some cases directly down the throat, though most cases it hits the side facing up. I have never had an issue with 9 or 40 in many thousands of rounds. When the powder die starts to require a bit more pressure, I spray again. A few of my friends also load on my Dillon 550, same method, with no issues. I suppose the powder could be some part of the equation, I use VV320.
  10. Stealsack

    P320 X5 Thread

    Good to hear! I am anxiously awaiting my order. I love how the gun fits my hand, but the trigger is pretty awful. I was hoping for today, but no UPS as yet...
  11. Stealsack

    So 1911 9mm Single Stacks...

    I recently shot the Rock Island double stack 9mm (a bit different I know) and I was very impressed! All stock. The trigger was decent and the fit and finish were very good. Ultimately I went with a DVC, but I really was impressed. A buddy has the RO and it's very nice. A tiny bit of cleanup and it feels and shoots fantastic.
  12. Stealsack

    Carry Optics forum

    I was looking for the carry optics discussion and found this thread. I too am in favor of a separate section. I want to find comparisons of the various "ready to mount" guns that folks are currently using. This would be far easier in a dedicated section.
  13. Stealsack

    New to red dot. Help please

    MM is quite right! On the upside, once you get dialed in, it is quick! You really only need to see red intersect your aim point and with good grip you won't miss. Then you will get going so fast that you shoot as the dot crosses your point of aim and will have to learn to slow down again, but that will be a few matches down the road. It is awesome for us with older eyes.
  14. Stealsack

    Do you wet tumble your pistol brass?

    My dry tumbler died, so I decided to try a Franklin Arsenal wet tumbler. It works amazing. Inside and out the cases are spotless. Yeah I know, the shine is not required, but it does look great. I don't decap anymore since I bought the brass dryer (relabeled food dehydrator I'm sure) after two hours the brass is really dry and ready to go. I dump the brass from the dryer into a plastic tote and give the top layer a quick blast of one shot and into the redding pass through it goes. I use Lemishine and Armor all wash and wax with SS pins, though after reading the above, I'll give it a try without the pins to see how that works. You can fit a LOT of .40 and .45 brass into the FART! It might take a little bit more time, but I'm really happy with the results. @CrashDodson How full do you fill the drum with brass? What is your recipe without the pins? Do you change it up if the brass is really dirty/muddy? Thanks!
  15. Stealsack

    Push Thru Die

    Like many I use a redding on a single stage Lee then on to the Dillon. I did notice that when I switched to wet tumbling I had to use a little one shot to make the cases go through the grx with a reasonable push.
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