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MemphisMechanic

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Everything posted by MemphisMechanic

  1. MemphisMechanic
    We are trying. But it doesn't make any sense. Were you drunk, or is your grammar/spelling always this bad?
  2. MemphisMechanic
    <oops>
  3. MemphisMechanic
    90% of the people out there don't make any adjustments to the block for it to work correctly. That's also an impossible question for anyone to answer before you tell them exactly which hammer, sear, and disconnector combination is in your gun. ...and even then, you may be looking at a few thousandths variation from gun to gun. I had obvious impact signs on the side of my firing pin with Titan/bolo/1pc sear combination. For most users that combination is 100% drop-in for the extended firing-pin block (FPB.)
  4. MemphisMechanic
    That depends. Does the RM like you, or not?
  5. MemphisMechanic
    Shot Coach displays the splits. No math required. Good thing this one was free. It doesn't do anything I couldn't do my browsing my video frame by frame and writing down the times in a list. Come to think of it, half the shots were in the wrong spots on the timeline anyway and had to be dragged to whenever that shot actually fired... So that's exactly what I ended up doing.
  6. MemphisMechanic
    I didn't sand that spot - a dremel and a polishing wheel until it was slick to the touch. "rubbing like crazy?" What does that mean, exactly? Also, the ROUGHEST sandpaper that touched my gun was 2,000 grit and that was only inside frame and pin holes. You're not trying to remove any material. It's simply the easiest way I could figure to get something coated in polishing compound inside the small holes of the gun... and spun with a drill.
  7. MemphisMechanic
    Except that it's not in stock. Same $15 and in stock, here: https://patriotdefense.com/product/xtreme-firing-pin-safety-block/
  8. MemphisMechanic
    You would be surprised.
  9. MemphisMechanic
    Almost no one here buys components locally. When you shoot in enough volume, ordering from bulk places online really saves you $$$. Grafs, Powder Valley, and places like them are where it's at... as long as you need 5,000-20,000+ at a time
  10. MemphisMechanic
    It's slightly slower if you try to build your weakhand grip while the gun is still in the holster. And that's the one that matters.
  11. MemphisMechanic
    Dryfiring at (surprise) the dots was helpful for me on this. The problem is that it takes weeks or months to make that your automatic way to grip the pistol, and until you do, you won't do it consistently unless you're actively focusing on it. So that's where you start. No reloads or other activities to distract you, like moving into positions. Just draw, grip, shoot.
  12. MemphisMechanic
    I found over time that mastering the DA/SA transition... pretty much means practicing SA 97% of the time. Aside from one-shot DA draws from the holster, all of my dryfire time is spent like this: Once your long first pull is over, you spend the entire stage shooting like that. Make it your new "normal"
  13. MemphisMechanic
    What are these being shot through? Does it have a factory hammer/striker spring? What brand of primer is being loaded? There is no adjustability on the 650 for the priming mechanism. The punch seats them as deeply as it seats them, and that's the end of it. I've tried several fixes to make my 650 drive primers all the way home, and not even shimming the primer ram has helped.
  14. MemphisMechanic
    Snapped it off, or stripped the threads in the frame? I promise I'm not laughing. But I might be lying.
  15. MemphisMechanic
    I would aim in the same place in three gun. You want to stay well clear of missing off the edge of the target, and well clear of white, and do it fast. The mindset is to make your errors into Cs (and As a bit closer to the noshoot than you were aiming)... and to quit shooting noshoot penalties. You know, the ones you currently incur by aiming at the center of the remaining A zone?
  16. MemphisMechanic
    On what kind of gun? With a Glock and M&P, even with slightly lighter striker springs, I always adheared to "if it's flush, then it's good." When setting up my first hammer fired DA/SA gun I learned this isn't really true. FULLY seated in 9mm is usually .005" - .008" below flush. A gun with a light hammer spring will often set off a buried CCI, and choke on a flush Winchester. (If you're not aware, CCI primers are harder to ignite than Winchesters on an equal playing field.) For an extreme example, look at what the wheelgun guys do in order to shoot something with a light trigger pull. This is necessary with federal primers, even:
  17. MemphisMechanic
    <voice of demon on right shoulder> "Oh come on... how could you possibly hurt the gun by doing a little smoothing?" <voice of angel on left shoulder> "Because you're going to drop the slide and break the rear sight, or get the firing pin block spring turned sideways, or..."
  18. MemphisMechanic
    Thanks for that!!!
  19. MemphisMechanic
    How many of us prefer to rack the slide: Shove top of slide into web between thumb and fingers, pinch with thumb muscles, push/pull.
  20. MemphisMechanic
    How about a 40% discount on your primary sponsor's product ... after you paid $50-75 for the jersey? There's another issue at play here: supply and demand. There are far more shooters angling for a sponsorship (and the accompanying "look how awesome I am!" shirt) than there are companies in need of someone to donate their gear to.
  21. MemphisMechanic
    Asking for a friend: Can he run a vertical grip mounted on the handguard up front in PCC? Either the vertical style or something sloped like the magpul style ones.
  22. MemphisMechanic
    The rails for the slide and the insides of the holes for the hammer and trigger bar plunger are definitely worth polishing. If your gun has a few thousand rounds through it, I doubt you'll notice even those areas being smoothed out. But it certainly doesn't hurt.
  23. MemphisMechanic
    First video I fed it? It picked up 8 shots out of 12. ...Wonderful. EDIT - got it to work, but it doesn't show split times or anything like that. Just lists the exact time stamp for each shot down the side in a scrolling list. Meh. At least it's free.
  24. MemphisMechanic
    patriotdefense.com benstoegerproshop.com
  25. MemphisMechanic
    The other option is... steel? Aluminum? G10? Polymer are what I am personally after. A smooth grip I can shape then stipple to my liking will be perfect.
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