MemphisMechanic

@Mountbkr Someone beat me to it. I learned this before ever operating my Tanfoglio, and it’s the only way I ever lowered my hammer:

It is entirely prudent. Once the operator realizes there’s a safer method than pinching the hammer (slip = bang) or thumbing it down cowboy style (slip = bang) Wedge your thumb between the hammer and slide with the thumbnail against the hammer, and depress the trigger. Keep the trigger pulled and roll your thumb smoothly up out of the gap. This can be done consistently and 100% safely with hands soaked in summer’s sweat, or when they are numb from arctic cold.

Hammer spring? Depends what kind of primer you are loading or shooting, and what kind of press you’re loading it on. If factory ammo or harder primers, run. 15.5 PD

Agreed. The boxes live in the attic for the day I might sell the gun.

No one shot it.

Run a stock striker spring.

How tall is your ceiling? I tucked a full-height casefeeder into a closet on a 36” tall workbench. There is 6” of space between the ceiling and the top of the bowl.

@Broncman work on getting you EYES on the way to the next target when the gun is still in recoil. People who transition slow generally keep the sights in front of their eye and tank-turret to their new target. Look away from the sights and get your eyes on your next target. The gun will follow all by itself. (Although you should work to move the gun with your thighs, not your torso, too.)

Buying a different platform makes more sense to me. M&P is no longer the only common polymer Production/SSP gun with full ambi controls, which was the only reason I bought mine in 2008. I’m in a Q5 Match and an apex-level (sub 3 pound) trigger is easy: swap one $5 spring into the gun. Walther’s trigger is so amazingly clean that I’ve returned it to completely stock. It’s a factory tack driver, points even better than M&P, and the ambi controls are massive and impossible to miss. And Walther isn’t the only other choice: I’d look at a Canik, CZ, Tanfo, the P320, etc long before I’d ever buy another M&P.

Same thing happened to me. Needed to run more hammer spring in my Tanfo than guys who load CCI with a 1050 usually do, so that the higher ones still went bang.

Pehaps to prove that he can: If you can get a Stock III undweight for carry optics then the lighter II should be no sweat. More than likely, it’s simply because II’s are frequently out of stock everywhere these days, and III’s are simply easier to find.

Try different ammo. If the primers aren’t obviously a few thousandths below flush, your primers are high. First strike drives them down into the pocket, then the second strike sets them off.

Grip the gun and shoot it. Is there a pinch more flip than a Glock or M&P? Yes. Do I even slightly notice it when I grip the gun right (HARD) and shoot a bill drill? Absolutely not. I came directly to Q5 from a 45oz Tanfo Stock 3, which has half again the muzzle flip of a Glock (even lower, twice the weight, lighter slide, 8 pound recoil spring). I’m not shooting any slower. It only really matters to people picking nits on the internet. The internet loves the phrase “bore axis” and all that crap that doesn’t really matter. Addtionally, most Q5 and Canik shooters are still running the ridculously heavy factory recoil spring, whereas most of those peolle evaluating the gun are shooting something with a lightweight one installed, and comparing oranges to apples.

RHT on a BOSS hanger. Fits the gun perfectly. Rock solid.

I can’t help. I replaced mine with a Dawson right away. Like everyone should, the factory fiber is too big and the sight post too wide.

You can rack a defective round out of the gun without disrupting your cheekweld, since there’s no charging handle trying to occupy the same space as your nose.

I used a metal file then finished up with a dremel. A small thin file with masking tape on the insides of the slide works more quickly than 600-grit would.

@aales1 you’re located in Europe, where your parts choices make sense. They aren’t legal for IPSC Production, and the Xtreme parts are much easier to find. Be aware that polishing is illegal in IPSC Production as well, so I wouldn’t be doing too much of that.

When I often go a full month between loading sessions, I wouldn’t leave the press full of primers and exposed cases filled with powder. I’d clear the machine out between loading sessions. (That’s what most people always do.) Now? I can load 10 or 15 minutes a day without dressing for the winter or summer weather, and simply leave the machine ready to resume pulling the handle: I leave it perpetually set up and full, and simply walk away It still feels weird. But this is super convenient.

Wal Mart, when I was shooting factory ammo while starting out. The ammo isn’t going to have any affect on your performance for many months while you begin to learn to play the game. So just buy in bulk online or wherever is locally convenient.

Just leave the sight dovetail off in order to keep machining cost down.

Oops. Misread “traction” as “talon”. Honestly? If that product doesn’t work, I’d use strips of masking tape cut to fit your gun, peeled off, and transferred to a piece of high-end skateboard tape. Make your own grip tape. It’s not hard.

Correct. It’ll make your gun hit slightly harder with whatever spring you use. It may allow for you to drop to a lighter spring and still be relable. Your gun’s tolerances and your primer & reloading precision will be important in how light you can go.

Glad to hear it! I would suggest installing a one-piece sear and the Patriot reduced power trigger and sear springs, and a second round of more agressive polishing. Keep everything else stock. Keep the EGD Medium hammer spring. That should get your trigger down to 7.5/3.0 or so with zero change in reliabiltiy. That’s what I’d do to a “stock type” Tanfoglio build.

If you carefully file down the tip of the bolo (at the bottom of the above photo with the red 1 and 2 in it) it will allow the hammer to be cocked back further before it falls. The bolo doesn’t push the hammer back nearly as far, and that can result in light strikes. Don’t go too far, or you’ll need to buy another bolo. Mine needed .006” removed.