MemphisMechanic

That’s not the sadety they’re talking about. They are referring to the completely flat ‘Unica’ safety, which may or may not actually be made by Tanfoglio.

Mine is in my guest bedroom. Plenty of space in 3 other walk-in closets.

Honest question: Why are you putting a custom gun that won’t make you any better... ahead of a 650/1050 that will let you shoot your current basic gun often enough to improve? Practice make your scores improve. More affordable ammo = more practice.

The key with the trigger return spring (TRS) is to make a smaller temporary “slave” pin the width of the trigger to hold the spring in place. I use a piece of the handle from a Q-tip cotton swab.

Here is how I tell people to load the tapered-wall 9mm round if they haven’t loaded this caliber before. It’s solved frustrating odd issues for others in the past: 1. Load dummies that fail plunk and spin, going shorter and shorter, until you find where your particular barrel barely accepts this partocualr bullet. Let’s say that’s 1.140”. Set your press up so that your longest ammo you load is 1.130”. 2. Get your crimp dialed in. Think of it as a “flare removal” die and not a crimp. Return the wall to perfectly straight. Do this visually and by feel and checking with calipers. Now pull one of these bullets. You should see only the FAINTEST line where the case mouth laid against it, and your pulled bullet should mic the same diameter and unloaded ones. There should be no ridge in the jacket or polymer coating that you can catch your fingernail in. Those are the keys. Crimp is where most people mess up. Are you using the Dillon powder check in station 3? If not, get one. I have one I’ll sell you ify ou need it. (Went to a MrBulletfeeder, no station left for it.)

Can you show us a closeup picture of the bump in the shaft of your old safety? It was probably filed on to fit it to the old sear, which simply means you need a new safety and to go ahead and to fit your sear & safety to each other.

I personally wouldn’t go wider than .100” and they can custom make sights for most models if you call.

Step 1: grip the gun more consistently.

Move your thumb. It’s contacting the slide release. To test this: load magazines with a single round and fire the gun without your thumbs contacting it at all.

And in general expect a different style of match. Much more technical, lots of really hard shots and tight positions. The majority of stages being less than 20 rounds, but actually much harder to shoot well than a 32-round run n’ gun. You’ll rarely see a swinger you get to shoot at the end of it’s arc - you’ll have to take them in the center of their movement.

@drivenagain Great! I’m glad they helped.

I think so. But not sure Mine hangs off the sides of my Q5 pretty far - although the Walther’s slide does taper inward toward the top - it’s really narrow. Hard to see here, but...

Signal boost!

That makes sense. I’m open about being an average A-class shooter who makes it to one match every 4-6 weeks, and who doesn’t practice. Used to dryfire a lot, but USPSA is purely a hobby right now. No wonder I like them smooth.

@SCTaylor I think we agree more than we disagree. A well-polished mechanism that’s glass smooth is more important than the lightest possible breaking weight. Yes, I’m shooting a “stock” Walther Q5 now. But you better believe I stripped it down and polished the action like a mirror before I fired a single round through it. I’m actually under 5lbs due to that, I’m just “stock” because I am running the factory parts and springs. Tanfo tuning was a valuable experience in how important REALLY polishing your action can be, and what “fully” polished actually looks like.

Yeah. But he’s a trigger snob, as you mentioned. The Shadow 2 probably wouldn’t get any work done by me. The one I shot was damn shootable out of the box. The 12 lb Tanfo I bougt? That was another story. (Keep in mind I’m shooting a 5.1lb stock striker gun now, and quickly learning all that $$$ into the Tanfo wasn’t helping me shoot any better.)

I find Winchesters very easy to bury with the 650, right up there with the softer Federals. So that tracks. S&B seat fairly well too. With CCI though, even shimming the ram can’t get every primer .003 below flush. Their cups are just plain rock hard. That said, I’m only loading for plastic guns with stock striker springs these days: I’m back to CCI Magnums running 100% as long as they aren’t above flush. ?

Exactly. If you buy a Shadow 2, you have the complete race car. Sure, you can change the tires and seats and little details (sights, springs, grips) but it’s pretty much ready to go. Buying a Tanfogio is more like buying the bare race car chassis. Sure, there’s a 4 cylinder engine in there which you CAN move the car wih, but if you want to race you need to take it apart and install the thumping V8 and set up the suspension the way you like. Tanfoglios are for those of us who have a well stocked toolbox in the garage and a project car up on jackstands... or else those who want the (percieved) best most customized gun, and don’t mind finding a builder to make it happen.

This is rather obvious if you understand how the gun actually works, and I’ve been saying it for three days now. The hammer is the reason why. The only reason why. Xtreme sear and firing pin = factory firing pin block works. Titan hammer in an otherwise stock gun = Extended firing pin block.

Titan/Bolo/AllTheGoodies, yes

I had one of PD’s initial batch of firing pins in my gun. Whether I ran that one or the factory pin, my reliability with a given hammer spring and ammo combination was unchanged. Sure, the gun would launch pencils a bit higher. But it didn’t show up as a reliability increase in the real world - I wasn’t able to drop my hammer spring weight down even a single pound due to the PD Optimized firing pin.

Yes. The need for the extended firing pin block (or safety) comes from the presence of the Titan hammer. Run a Titan hammer, your one-piece sear, and you will need to perform only minor fitting at most. This combination is a drop-in installation for the majority of Tanfoglio DA/SA guns, but tolerances vary widely. Marketing perhaps. Or whatever. Run a Henning, Extreme or factory firing pin. The gun and the safety won’t know which one you’ve got installed.

Titan is worth it if you want to clean your SINGLE action up a little bit. Good choice(s) Skip it. Run the factory one. You will need this because of the Titan hammer’s repoisitioned hooks. It lifts the plunger less. You need this longer plunger to match up to the Titan & One-piece sear combination. Not due to the above. Run this in a gun where all the action parts stay stock: It is as light as you can get without causing issues in your gun with stuck firing pins and the like. Skip it. Run the factory one, or a BOLO. This is your factory disconnector but refinished for the non-USA crowd who can’t polish their internals. 100% suggested. Skip all of these. Re-use your current hammer strut. Not needed. Use your original pins.

@Peebles24 the P-09. @JLB-US if a metal CZ feels good in your hands but a bit small, just trust me and order a Tanfoglio sight unseen. I never regretted making that same decision.

Interesting. I came from a Tanfoglio, and found the gun indexed even more naturally than it did. From my experience making large grip angle changes like switching from Glock to M&P? I didn’t worry about it “pointing naturally” as I do not believe that’s a thing: I feel dryfire practice trains you in how to index a particular firearm. However you went on to say it basically doesn’t fit your hands, and that is a different matter entirely.