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IDPA Revolver??


idleclamp

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Yes Smith did manufacture a 4" 610, I owned one years ago only problem was it had an unfluted cylinder and was very hard on the bolt stops. I currently own a 646, geat little gun only bought is to have a revolver that shoots 40S&W.

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Looks there were also 300 3" models made.  Dont get the unfluted cylinder though.
I bought a 646 with titanium cylinder for IDPA, and right after I bought it, IDPA changed the rules and I had to shoot major out of it. 646 was pretty light I think 28 oz.
So much for rule stability. I ended up trading it a couple years later. Wasnt reliable at major with the titanium cylinder. Rounds would be a bit sticky. Worked fine at minor. Probably coulda goe to a slower powder and fixed it if I had kept it.

Edited by Joe4d
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Obviously the big problem with revolver in IDPA is what is legal there is not competitive anywhere else. What this means in practical terms is you have to get used to the idea that you need more than 1 competition revolver.

 

I use a S&W 686 in IDPA, the standard 686 with 4" barrel. I had action work done on it and it's cut for moons but of course I use 105pf loads and speed loaders. I guess what I'm trying to add to this conversation is since you are limited to either a 686 (or the Ruger GP100) or the 625 either way you will probably (as I have) pine away for the one you didn't decide to get. So the simple solution to the problem is get one of each. Around here at least, at the local and state level there are few who shoot revolver in IDPA it probably really doesn't matter one way of the other. The only other place for my 686 besides IDPA is ICORE Classic and Limited 6 where having a 4" barrel is generally considered a handicap but at my level no biggie.

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2 minutes ago, firewood said:

Obviously the big problem with revolver in IDPA is what is legal there is not competitive anywhere else. What this means in practical terms is you have to get used to the idea that you need more than 1 competition revolver.

 

I use a S&W 686 in IDPA, the standard 686 with 4" barrel. I had action work done on it and it's cut for moons but of course I use 105pf loads and speed loaders. I guess what I'm trying to add to this conversation is since you are limited to either a 686 (or the Ruger GP100) or the 625 either way you will probably (as I have) pine away for the one you didn't decide to get. So the simple solution to the problem is get one of each. Around here at least, at the local and state level there are few who shoot revolver in IDPA it probably really doesn't matter one way of the other. The only other place for my 686 besides IDPA is ICORE Classic and Limited 6 where having a 4" barrel is generally considered a handicap but at my level no biggie.

 

Why is your 686 cut for moon clips if you’re not using moon clips?

 

If you’re going to use speed loaders, why not go with a Model 66 or 67?

 

I’ve come to the realization that I will most likely end up with at least two revolvers.  But I want to start with one, otherwise my ADD will go crazy and I’ll just be average at both.

 

Everybody keeps saying get the 625 JM and not the 625 PC.  What’s the issue with the PC?

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I use moon clips for other things not IDPA. I shot local steel matches for a whole year with a 6 shot revo, not recommended but that was all I had. Personally I like a heavier L frame over a K frame. My other two revos are N frame 8 shot 929s which are boarder line too big for me . The truth of the matter is my 929s get all of my attention, I have to look for excuses to shoot my 686. I don't want to sound negative on any one particular program but for me at least, shooting an 8 shot moon clipped revolver is a lot more fun than a 6 shot anything. Others might see if differently and that is ok but just my experience.

 

I cannot speak for the JM vs. PC but the 2 PC revos I have were not competition ready out of the box. If you are serious about it figure on having a pistol smith that is good with S&W revolvers do some work, minimum lighten the trigger. Both of my PC guns needed to have the cylinder trued in addition to other stuff. My 686 needed this work done also.  Some refer to them as kit guns.

 

When I first started shooting revolver I wasn't sure if I would like it. After the first year I decided to make a move in that direction. I'm not trying to talk you into any one particular thing, my main point was to say I have "A" and sometimes wish I had "B" but "A" does everything my abilities warrant and more. Revolvers are like anything though, you can pour in buckets of money and still find something else you really want. In my case I want a 617.

Edited by firewood
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52 minutes ago, idleclamp said:

 

Why is your 686 cut for moon clips if you’re not using moon clips?

 

If you’re going to use speed loaders, why not go with a Model 66 or 67?

 

I’ve come to the realization that I will most likely end up with at least two revolvers.  But I want to start with one, otherwise my ADD will go crazy and I’ll just be average at both.

 

Everybody keeps saying get the 625 JM and not the 625 PC.  What’s the issue with the PC?

If you shoot a lot the JM being heavier will be easier on your hands, sight radius is longer on JM. Small difference but......

A friend of mine has a mostly stock PC and does fine with it, I have a PC and would like to have a JM lol. I compete with a K frame most of the time.

 

John

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The weight of the JM out on the end of the barrel is actually an advantage in idpa. 

 

Also, the JM uses a "standard" length cylinder, and the PC is shorter. If for some reason you need to replace the cylinder, or upgrade to a titanium one, the standard length are easy to find. 

 

Cost is another issue. The PC has no factory "action job." I don't care what the brochure says. The regular springs in the JM are actually more useful during an action job, when tuning the gun. 

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I think that if I had it to do all over again I would go with a 625 over the 686. Still, I like my 686 and it can do a lot of stuff it's just that my interests have migrated in the direction that warrants an 8 shot revolver.

 

But that decision isn't easy to make either. On the advice of a well known revolver competitor I decided on the 8 shot 9mm 929. The way I have it configured and including the action work I have over $2200.00 in the gun. Plus the cost moon clips and a belt/holster/moon clip holders and moon clip tools. Granted, for IDPA things are less complex/expensive. Anyway, the 9mm wasn't a hard sell as my SSP and production gun is 9mm. This keeps the ammo supply simple.

 

But others can make a great case for a 627 or 327/TRR8 using 38 spl or 38 long or short colt brass. When I decided on a second 8 shot revo the ammo/moon clip issue made the decision for me but still I second guess myself all the time. So again my point is you will probably find yourself going back and forth no matter what you do so all you can do is look at the pros/cons of each, make a decision and practice practice practice the double action trigger.

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The weight of the JM out on the end of the barrel is actually an advantage in idpa. 
 
Also, the JM uses a "standard" length cylinder, and the PC is shorter. If for some reason you need to replace the cylinder, or upgrade to a titanium one, the standard length are easy to find. 
 
Cost is another issue. The PC has no factory "action job." I don't care what the brochure says. The regular springs in the JM are actually more useful during an action job, when tuning the gun. 


That leads me to my next questions. Where do I find aftermarket parts?? Holsters? Etc. I’ve shot mostly Glocks and there are a TON of places and things to buy to tune a Glock. I’m having a really hard time finding aftermarket stuff and holsters for revolvers. Maybe there just isn’t much?


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For IDPA your accessory needs are not too complex. There are holsters available from Comp-Tac, Blade Tec, Safariland, DAA I think a few others. You need either speed loader pouches or moon clip pouches. Once you decide on a gun we can point you in the right direction but stuff is available. There are several makes of speedloaders and moon clips. In short, don't worry, a revolver is more than up to the task of separating you from your money.

 

After market parts for the gun, that is a little different from a semi-auto like a Glock. There are tons of parts for revolvers but as far as getting inside and making changes note that a revolver is more complex than a semi and a lot easier for a newb to mess up. True a diy guy can do some work, I've do some minor spring and firing pin work on my J frames but for my competition revolvers I leave that work to the professional.  Replacing grips no problem and there are tons of grips out there. Same with sights but the sights that come with the gun, at lest the rear sights are fine for now.

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Well, bought a 625JM.  It hasn’t even arrived yet and I’ve already ordered a holster, moon clips, moon clip holders, 230RN bullets, and Wilson Combat springs. Probably ordering G10-type grips today. 

 

Anybody have sights they recommend?  Most of my competition guns have Dawson Precision.

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If you've like the small Dawson sights, that's a good choice. I'd get a .300 tall, so if you change the rear sight they work together.

 

The factory rear is wicked short. The Bowen is a killer option for a rear. Only have to buy once to see how good they are.

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  • 1 month later...
I liked shooting my 625 pc. however i was the only one
who showed up with a revolver. that gets old fast. hope
you can find shoots that have more interest in IDPA revo.


Be a trendsetter.

I was all alone in revo for most of a year, then a few other shooters decided to try it.

No doubt trying to mimic my mad skills[emoji849]
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On 11/18/2017 at 12:34 PM, lee blackman said:

I run a S&W 686SSR in IDPA, and as much as I do like it, I honestly I wish I would have bought a GP100 Match Champion.  Because you don't have to do anything other than a spring swap to get the trigger pull weight down and your done.  Get some jetloaders, and call it a day.

 

I fitna SDM fiber optic front on my 686, was a pain in the rear. The ruger already comes with one.  I'm going to refrain of a diatribe of my experience with S&W MiM internals also...

 

This makes me chuckle... I went from a GP100 Match Champion to a Smith & Wesson 686SSR... We live in a great age... there are so many good guns out there these days..... GP100 / 686 / 625 / etc... all are good choices. Find what you like and have fun.

 

I used to shoot a Mike Carmoney tuned 625 JM in the old ESR division... I have some arthritis issues in my hands and sold my .45's and moved down to SSR with speedloader fed .38 revolvers..... I love it. With practice it doesn't take that much longer to load and its nice hot having to deal with the pain in my hands the next day.

 

A good entry point would be a clean, used GP100, some speedloaders, etc and hit the ground running...... If you decide you want something else you can always sell a GP100....... tougher to sell a tricked out 625, etc.......

 

Good luck and let us know what you decide.

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I just traded for a NIB S&W 66-8 4.25" barrel Combat 357 and am really surprised with the quality of the revolver . My favorite 66 is the 66-5 2000 era (mainly because of it being pre-lock but still having a replaceable pinned front sight) but wasn't able to find one for a backup to my main 66-5 so I opted for a new one . Very accurate out of the box with a heavy but smooth trigger pull . I also noticed it has a ball detent on the crane for when it closes on the frame . I've not seen this except on custom Smith's . All in all I think this is a perfect revolver for IDPA or will be with lighter springs, Apex competition firing pin and a Dawson fiber optic front sight .I don't have very large hands and I really like my 625 and my 686 but for IDPA day in and day out I think the 66 is hard to beat.

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20 hours ago, S391 said:

 

This makes me chuckle... I went from a GP100 Match Champion to a Smith & Wesson 686SSR... We live in a great age... there are so many good guns out there these days..... GP100 / 686 / 625 / etc... all are good choices. Find what you like and have fun.

 

I used to shoot a Mike Carmoney tuned 625 JM in the old ESR division... I have some arthritis issues in my hands and sold my .45's and moved down to SSR with speedloader fed .38 revolvers..... I love it. With practice it doesn't take that much longer to load and its nice hot having to deal with the pain in my hands the next day.

 

A good entry point would be a clean, used GP100, some speedloaders, etc and hit the ground running...... If you decide you want something else you can always sell a GP100....... tougher to sell a tricked out 625, etc.......

 

Good luck and let us know what you decide.

 

I ended up buying a 625JM.  I was agonizing over which one, but found a good deal on this 625 and took it as a sign.  I ended up putting a Wilson Combat spring kit, VZ grips that I modified (removed finger grooves and certain parts), sanded down the grooves on the trigger a bit, Dawson Precision front sight, had the cylinder chamfered and the internal components smoothed and polished.  I also bought shims that I might eventually try to true up the hammer, etc.  I’m sure many will think all of this is overkill, and it may very well be.  But it makes me happy to tweak on it.  I had most of this done before I even fired a shot.  I did one range session trying to find a load I like, then to a local match.  I didn’t do all that great (reloading is SLOOOOW), and apparently I forget how to count sometimes.  But I won one of the stages overall.  I just got it back from the gunsmith (sight, chamfer, triggerwork).  I’m going to hopefully decide on a powder (another agonizing process) and start hitting the major matches soon.

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