eggman

Thanks ! When it is too good to be true...it usually is .

I found this web site and it looks like the real thing but prices and the fact that all primers are in stock make me cautious. Here is the link : https://federalprimers.org/product-category/federal/

I installed my RU hammer on a 625 PC and am still getting used to the trigger weight being upfront of the trigger pull ( I think I'm prone to stage the trigger ) . One thing i've noticed that I haven't heard anyone mention is I'm much more accurate shooting weak hand only or strong hand only with the RU hammer setup than my original setup .

Although not listed on the website Brass Monkey makes 147 gr. RN bullets sized .358" for use in 38 caliber . You just have to ask . These make an excellent bullet for 38 special or 38 short colt .

I have used a 625 PC for several years in IDPA shooting and was quite pleased with it . I then traded a older S&W 66-2 for a almost new 625 JM for a backup . After I got used to the 625 JM it is my favorite for IDPA . The 625 JM has a full length under lug and a full length cylinder . The extra weight of the JM may help some with muzzle flip . I installed a TK hammer on the PC and a Apex hammer on the JM . I have both tuned to 6 1//2 lb trigger pull but my JM trigger releases the hammer early in the trigger pull and the 625 PC releases the hammer closer to the end of what seems to be a longer trigger pull . This may be due to me installing a TK trigger with over travel stop on the TK but then again the 625 PC comes stock with a over travel stop . This difference in trigger pull makes it hard for me to switch between the two revolvers . I now have designated the 625 PC to back-up status and would probably trade the PC for another JM if I had a chance to do so. FWIW

Ibejiheads will size 160 to .357 or .358

I own both the 625 PC and the 625 JM but both are wearing Hogue rubber grips . I use both for IDPA and my favorite is the 625 PC . I like the half lug and it seems to me the shorter cylinder helps with a slightly lighter trigger pull . Most 625 revolver shooters I have run into and talked too seem to favor the full lug barrel of the 625 JM . I have tried to like the 625 JM but always come back to the 625 PC.

Using the black TK moonclips for the S&W 610 I have found that Winchester or Speer brass fit them the best . These are the same moonclips that S&W ship with a new 610.

I use an OAL of 1.19 for any of the 160 gr. coated RN bullets . My load is 3 grs of Ramshot Competition , Federal SP primer, Starline brass ans 160 gr. RN bullet from SNS, Summers , or Ibejiheads.

The only revolvers I have that would benefit with that modification would be my 617's . About all the 22lr ammo I have used leaves lots of unburnt powder residue under the star . My centerfire revolvers with the right powder I've never had that problem.

For EDC and IDPA I wear a Comp-Tac leather belt that is reinforced with Kydex . They look good enough for everyday wear but are sturdy enough for competition use and last for years .

I like RamShot Competition powder for 38 Short Colt and 38 Special . Measures good , fairly clean with no unburnt kernels to get under extractor and as accurate as anything else I've tried . I just cannot get Clay Dot , Clay's, American Select or e3 to measure accurately day in and day out from my 550. I've tried aquarium pumps small powder bar , polishing internals and just cannot get large flake powders to measure accurately . I might be too OCD( from my Benchrest shooting background) but 0.01 grs. or greater of variance are just not acceptable to me .

When I shoot my revolver in a steel challenge match I'll take whatever ammo I've got the most of loaded . Sometimes it's 38 Short Colt loaded for USPSA sometimes it's 38 special loaded for IDPA and sometimes both . If I switch from 38 short colt to 38 special during a match I'll brush the cylinders . I found that those plastic brushes Glock sends out with every Glock pistol works fine for this .

That's good to know . When I had the extra money I was going to buy the pistol caliber tool just to have . 90% of the pistol bullets I use are coated . I would have thought jacketed bullets were slicker than Hi-tec coating and the tool grips jacketed rifle bullets with very little pressure applied so I never thought that coated bullets would be a problem.

I just purchased a grip-in-pull tool for rifle calibers to pull a bunch of 223 bullets for the brass and if there pistol caliber version works as well as this rifle caliber tool it would be just the ticket for chrono stages . It is pricey and you would have to mount a small reloading press to the table but dang this thing works with a lot less effort than the hammer type "pullers".. Here is the link to check it out : https://grip-n-pull.com/

I am so used to my Smith and Wesson revolvers I just couldn't get used to the Ruger and ended up selling my GP100- Match Champion in 10mm . However the last match I shot with it I used 40 S&W reloads with Federal primers and it worked flawlessly with the TK moonclips for 40 S&W . Changing the springs and using Federal primers it would be easy to get to a 6 1/2 to 7 lb. DA trigger pull weight with no light strikes . Also, Bowen makes an extended firing pin that would also aid in the endeavor to a light DA pull weight with no light strikes.

Double Alfa has the new waterproof IDPA targets listed but are backordered as of yesterday . I ordered 50 USPSA waterproof targets and can say they are a better alternative to bagging targets and drooping heads.

A powder that I like very much for IDPA 45 acp loads that I didn't see mentioned is Vectan Ba-10 . I use it with 230 gr coated RN bullets and really like the feel of it .

I switch back and forth between shooting speedloaders and moonclips. I have somewhat better scores shooting my S&W 66-5 and speedloaders vs my 625 and moonclips . For me shooting 38 special minor my splits are faster and reloads a little slower . Shooting 45 ACP major with moonclips my splits are slower with a faster reload . This time of year when our ranges are muddy or snow covered I like having to pick up my brass in moonclips vs singularly . So in winter I'm shooting the 625 or my 610 however I usually always shoot bigger matches using speedloaders and 38 special as I feel I'm more accurate and have fewer pulled shots.

Comp-Tac fits more revolvers . The Ready Tactical can be a bit tight for newer revolvers .

I Shoot in the Revolver division in USPSA because I enjoy revolvers and getting set up for USPSA revolver division wasn't a big deal as I like to tinker and do most of my own work. I Was 60 years old before I ever shot my first USPSA match and I will never be all that competitive in any division in USPSA but if I'm interested in where I am finishing I just look at Production division and I can see how bad I suck. I'm a C class in Revolver division but I am still catching my self shooting a USPSA stage like I would a IDPA stage like looking for cover or picking up a dropped mag . Hopefully I'll improve as I get more matches under my belt and better understand USPSA stages . If our Governor in Virginia gets his way we will all be shooting revolvers and I'll have them figured out by then.

I use a 66-5 with Bowen rear sight ,Dawson FO front sight in a Ready Tactical holster . For speedloaders I use JET that have been bubbaized in Ready Tactical holders . 38 Special loaded with 165 gr. Ibejiheads LRN over 2.9 grs RS Competition and Federal primers . In winter and muddy weather I use a 625 or 610 with moonclips to make it easier to retrieve brass .

I use RamShot Competition for 38 special and 38 short colt . It's meters so much better than Clays or Clay Dot and really can't tell if it's any dirtier.

I recently installed fiber optic front sights and reduced power springs on two new 4" S&W 610's .A couple guys I shoot IDPA with got together and purchased them at the same time. I was very impressed with both of them when I sighted them in and adjusted the strain screw tension for reliability . I liked them better than my 610-3 and think the new S&W 610 would be a great choice for a new revolver.

Anything by Jon R. Lansdale who wrote the Hap & Leonard books but his other books are great .