Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Toolguy

Forum Dealer
  • Content Count

    3,387
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Toolguy

  • Rank
    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 03/01/1955

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=189
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas City area
  • Interests
    Owner, Protocall Design, a full service machine shop.
    Shooting pistol matches, hunting, fishing.
    30 + years Tool & Die Maker
    S&W Shooter
    Specialize in Prototypes of new inventions.
  • Real Name
    Warren Moore

Recent Profile Visitors

4,412 profile views
  1. I can do just about any mod or custom work there is on a revo. A broken hammer or trigger pivot pin is the one thing I send it to S&W for. The reason is, the new one has to be located within a thousandth or two in all directions for everything to work right. The factory has the drawings and fixtures to get the location exact.
  2. The Wolff spring has what they call a "Power Rib". That is the raised portion running lengthwise down the spring. It extends downward to where the strain screw contacts the spring. The original S&W spring doesn't have that feature. When you put in a Wolff spring, you effectively have a shorter strain screw due to the extra space created at the end of the screw by the Power Rib. Then the strain screw can't tension the new spring enough to make the hammer hit the firing pin hard enough. The easy fix is to get a #8-32 x 1/2" long set screw (these have no head) and install it with some Blue #242 Loctite. Then you can just keep putting more tension on the spring until you don't have any more misfires. The Loctite keeps the screw in place wherever you turn it to, but still allows for easy adjustment. Once you get the mainspring working, start with the lightest rebound spring. If that doesn't return the trigger as snappy as you want, put in the next heavier one, etc. If you work up the mainspring from having misfires to working right, and work up the rebound springs from lightest to heaviest, you will have the best (lightest) action you're going to get out of that setup. I drill an access hole in the grip on my guns so I can easily make adjustments without removing the grips. If you prefer having a strain screw with a head, and tighten it down all the way, you can find the right tension with the set screw, weigh and record the hammer pull with a trigger pull gage, then use a too long strain screw and shorten it a little at a time until you get the same hammer pull as before. If the firing pin is shorter than .495", you probably need a longer one. I like the Power Custom ones the best.
  3. The mover base looks like a copy of the original StickShift. If you are having questions or problems we will try to help. There is information about the original ones in our Protocall Design Vendor tent.
  4. The .22s usually have a .200 tall front sight. I have .200 x.125 and .200 x.100.
  5. I'm shooting a 4" 686 I made into a 646. That's a .40 S&W. I have my .100 wide front orange and green rear fiber optic sights on all my iron sight guns, the same sights I sell on this forum. It works really well for IDPA. It's like a 3/4 size 625, which is also a good choice. Reloads are really fast with either one. You can have 2 moonclips in front of the holster, 1 behind. I'm using a Galco #L159HOD-FL104B. I like it pretty well. My 4" 625 also fits in it.
  6. I would tig weld the bad spots and remachine. If the holes are only off a little bit, plugging them with screws won't work. There will only be a sliver of screw left after re drilling, and that will fall off. Helicoils would still be in the same wrong location. The over cut slot could be welded and recut. Remember - measure twice, cut once. Weld, repeat.
  7. Welcome to the Forums, Lara Bully! Thanks for the heads up on the Keller dovetail jig.
  8. I had 4 Pythons, 2 Troopers and a Detective Special back when they were making them. The factory action was better than a Smith out of the box. Not nearly as good as a tuned Smith. The Pythons didn't hold up to a lot of use and were finicky to work on. Parts were hard to get and expensive back then, more so now. I was shooting around 30,000 38s and about 3000 357s a season in the late 70's, to early 90's. A Python wouldn't stay working for one season, a Smith would go for 2 or 3 in a row. The Troopers had a heavy, clunky action. I don't know what they are like now. I'll take a 686 or other Smith over a Python any day for shooting. You can get 4 of them for the price of one old time Python. The Colt is nicer to look at, though.
  9. Shouldn't this be in the USPSA forum? Not a big deal, just curious.
  10. What is the benefit of doing that, and what do you machine?
  11. My CZ Tactical Sport was having problems with the slide not closing completely on some types of bullets. I reamed it with a standard Manson HSS 9mm chamber reamer. I did not make the chamber any longer, but it cut some material ahead of the case mouth, which is just what I was wanting. It now eats everything. The accuracy and group size is the same as before. Many guns come from the factory needing that done. If the barrel is bare carbon or stainless, a regular reamer is fine. If it is chrome lined or has a coating, you will need a carbide reamer. The chrome or coating will ruin a HSS reamer in seconds. Some coatings are a different color than the steel, some are clear. It can be hard to determine at times.
  12. Some assembly required...
  13. No, it won't cause any problems. I've done lots of them.
×
×
  • Create New...