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Toolguy

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About Toolguy

  • Rank
    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 03/01/1955

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    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=189
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas City area
  • Interests
    Owner, Protocall Design, a full service machine shop.
    Shooting pistol matches, hunting, fishing.
    30 + years Tool & Die Maker
    S&W Shooter
    Specialize in Prototypes of new inventions.
  • Real Name
    Warren Moore

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  1. An aluminum frame gun will not hold up well to competition use. The heavier SS revos hold up well, and the extra weight is a welcome recoil reducer.
  2. If memory serves me correctly (probably not), it seems like it was Cliff Walsh. He seems to have dropped out of sight for a long time. Anyone know how he's doing? I never knew him, but he seemed like a cool guy. I'm not posting any pics or the video of that famous stage. I don't want to have to wash my eyes out with bleach again.
  3. That reminds me of a certain match where a certain shooter was wearing even less under his belt and holster rig...
  4. I have been building and shooting my own custom revos since 1979. I do all my own work. For the trigger rounding, I use a 10" Scotchbrite deburring wheel on a polishing motor. There are many different sizes, some will fit on a bench grinder. For that, a 1/2" wide by 6" diameter will work (for a 6" grinder). I use the XL or EXL 8S or 9S fine deburring and finishing wheel.
  5. I have found "bullet jump" to be mostly irrelevant due to the throats in the cylinder lining up the bullet before it gets to the barrel. Targets such as above, even at much longer distances would seem to support this theory.
  6. The main key to having your trigger finger not hurt is to get those corners rounded off. The worst offender is the top corner where it turns 90 degrees. That one will dig a hole in your finger after a while. If you look at the 2nd picture above, you can clearly see where it's digging in on the right side. Thanks for the great pictures, Mike! I round off the sides with a big radius, the top with a big radius, and the bottom across the front with a little radius. Gotta run now, will post pics later. Once the triggger is well rounded off, you can shoot all day with no trauma to the trigger finger. On the left is a MIM trigger that's been rounded off. I didn't have any more original MIM ones, so the right one is a machined trigger for comparison.
  7. Glad I was able to help.
  8. To me it looks like you are just shooting dirty ammo, with lots of lead and soot getting on the gun. The round circle marks just look like they are in the soot on the recoil shield. The dirt goes from the cylinder gap up along the underside of the topstrap, then down across the face of the recoil shield.you can see how it fans out above the center pin hole.
  9. On a S&W, if the hand is too wide, it binds between the frame on the right side and the ratchet on the left side. You have to be a skilled craftsman to refit ratchet(s). Stay away from them unless you are very good at that already. It's super easy to mess them up. Ruger makes a quality firearm, but their actions are a bit klunky out of the box, due to the part geometry of the lockworks. They can be greatly improved in terms of smoothness, but will never have the lightness of a Smith. Ruger normally doesn't have the hand binding problem.
  10. You are most welcome.
  11. You only thin the tip, or nose part of the hand where it interfaces with the ratchet. Leave the rest of it normal width. Lay the file on the side of the hand to establish the level of the file, then move over to the tip for actual filing. You want the filed surface to end up parallel to the original surface, just slightly lower. When you get to the final size, give the top corner a small chamfer, or edge break. This takes the sharp cutting edge off the hand and makes the ratchets last a lot longer. It also makes the transition from top of the hand to side of the hand a bit smoother.
  12. I just get cheap ones from Harbor Freight or eBay or Amazon. I have spent big money on name brand ones, they don't work any better than the cheap ones. A diamond is a diamond. The cheap ones last quite a while, when one wears out, pitch it and get another. When filing on a hand, or gun parts in general, go slow and check your progress often. You want to only remove just enough material to do the job, no more. It's easy to overdo it. A hand is fairly cheap to replace, some parts, not so cheap.
  13. That looks like it. Just thin the ratchet side of only the nose part a little bit. The hand is hardened tool steel, so you'll need a diamond file. A regular file won't touch it.
  14. Good pics of the areas in question would help. A lot of the newer Smiths are coming out with the hand binding between the frame on the right and the ratchet on the left, This creates a hard spot in the action just before the hammer falls. That may be the stage point you are feeling. You can cycle the gun D/A with the sideplate off and watch the hand operating the cylinder through the hand window to see if it looks like that is the problem. Shooting and dryfire will wear the ratchets, or you can file the hand a couple thou. on the ratchet side with a diamond file to speed up the process, if that is the problem. Pic posted while I was typing.
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