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Toolguy

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About Toolguy

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    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 03/01/1955

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    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=189
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas City area
  • Interests
    Owner, Protocall Design, a full service machine shop.
    Shooting pistol matches, hunting, fishing.
    30 + years Tool & Die Maker
    S&W Shooter
    Specialize in Prototypes of new inventions.
  • Real Name
    Warren Moore

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  1. Is it a DA/SA gun? If the DA trigger pull is hard, and the subsequent SA pulls are easy, it may be making you pull the gun right on the first shot.
  2. I am having good performance with Power Custom firing pins. A lot of people don't know about them. They also have a complete line of aftermarket hammers, triggers, and hammer noses.
  3. The 3 and 4 screw guns don't have a plunger, just a spring that goes in the hole. The older 5 screw (yours) has a screw in the front of the trigger guard that holds the spring and plunger that operates the cylinder stop. You need to fill up that hole to make a place for the plunger to push on. I would suggest a piece of mild steel that is a close fit to the hole, loctited in place with green #648 retaining compound, then filed to match the contours of the cyl. stop. Give the Loctite a day or 2 to cure before filing on it.
  4. In my experience, all of the above. I haven't seen any difference in how easily they dent. Someone else may have a different experience.
  5. The shortest you want is .495. That is the longest I've seen in a factory one. I prefer a .505 - .510.
  6. I have a load with a Bayou Bullet 138 gr. DEWC that is very accurate out to 50 yds. It is going 920 FPS. You have to reload to get that one, though.
  7. The wadcutters can be very accurate to 50 yards. A lot depends on the bullet velocity and twist rate of the barrel. All the factory wadcutter loads I know of are in the 700 to 800 feet per second velocity. All the factory revo barrels I know of are in the one in 16 to one in 19 twist rate. The custom PPC guns that shoot tight groups at 50 have 1 in 10 to 1 in 14 twist rate. The only way to get a factory barrel to shoot wadcutters accurately at 50 yd. is to get the FPS up over 900. Either the tighter twist or the faster FPS makes the bullet spin faster and keeps it stabilized long enough.
  8. Bowen Classic took over making the interchangeable front sight part from Weigand. www.mitchellmunitions.com can do it for $300.
  9. Yep. Get Blue Loctite. Clean the internal (frame) and external threads (screw) with a solvent, let it evaporate, then put on a drop or 2 in the frame threads and on the screw threads. Wind in the screw, wipe off all excess. Then install the spring and set the hammer tension. Wipe down again if needed. The screw will stay wherever you put it, but will be easily adjustable at any time. I use an RCBS trigger pull gage to check hammer tension.
  10. Now you just have to say (generic) reduced weight hammer... Just kidding. I don't think Mike cares if someone says "Carmonized" hammer. He is justifiably proud of this contribution to the revo world and should be remembered for it.
  11. Most likely a defect in the steel that went undetected. Normally this will not happen.
  12. Yes. You will need a 10 shot cylinder hand, as well.
  13. I've seen lots of them in all frame sizes. This happens when the barrel is too far out of vertical when it first touches the frame, then they "crush fit" it to get it up to 12 o'clock. When it's over tightened like that it squeezes the bore down in the area just ahead of the forcing cone where it's threaded into the frame. I've seen them as much as .003 smaller than the rest of the bore. When that happens, the bullet passing through is also swaged to that size, then rattles down the rest of the barrel. This will cause significant leading if using lead bullets. Obviously accuracy suffers quite a bit. All this has nothing to do with whether the front sight is vertical, or slightly off to one side or the other. That is a separate problem of the barrel not being installed carefully.
  14. What I do for the strain screw is get a #8-32 x 1/2" long socket set screw (headless). Take out the strain screw and put in the set screw with blue LocTite. Then I drill a small access hole in the grip to adjust it without removing the grip (optional). This way you can tune the mainspring to be the lightest reliable with any primers. Start out with a light setting where you are getting misfires and increase the mainspring tension with the setscrew in 1/8 turn increments until you get no misfires. Whatever mainspring comes in the gun works fine. Then try different rebound springs to find the lightest one that gives the trigger return action you want. It's a good idea to weigh the hammer pull with a trigger pull scale and record that number for future reference. That way if you have to take out the mainspring to work on the gun, you can simply put it back to that number with the trigger pull gage and not have to experiment all over again.This is the cheap, easy way to get the lightest trigger pull your primers will allow. It's not as good as having the action tuned by a good revo smith, but way better than factory.
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