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Toolguy

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About Toolguy

  • Rank
    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 03/01/1955

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    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=189
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas City area
  • Interests
    Owner, Protocall Design, a full service machine shop.
    Shooting pistol matches, hunting, fishing.
    30 + years Tool & Die Maker
    S&W Shooter
    Specialize in Prototypes of new inventions.
  • Real Name
    Warren Moore

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  1. Yep. Get Blue Loctite. Clean the internal (frame) and external threads (screw) with a solvent, let it evaporate, then put on a drop or 2 in the frame threads and on the screw threads. Wind in the screw, wipe off all excess. Then install the spring and set the hammer tension. Wipe down again if needed. The screw will stay wherever you put it, but will be easily adjustable at any time. I use an RCBS trigger pull gage to check hammer tension.
  2. Now you just have to say (generic) reduced weight hammer... Just kidding. I don't think Mike cares if someone says "Carmonized" hammer. He is justifiably proud of this contribution to the revo world and should be remembered for it.
  3. Most likely a defect in the steel that went undetected. Normally this will not happen.
  4. Yes. You will need a 10 shot cylinder hand, as well.
  5. I've seen lots of them in all frame sizes. This happens when the barrel is too far out of vertical when it first touches the frame, then they "crush fit" it to get it up to 12 o'clock. When it's over tightened like that it squeezes the bore down in the area just ahead of the forcing cone where it's threaded into the frame. I've seen them as much as .003 smaller than the rest of the bore. When that happens, the bullet passing through is also swaged to that size, then rattles down the rest of the barrel. This will cause significant leading if using lead bullets. Obviously accuracy suffers quite a bit. All this has nothing to do with whether the front sight is vertical, or slightly off to one side or the other. That is a separate problem of the barrel not being installed carefully.
  6. What I do for the strain screw is get a #8-32 x 1/2" long socket set screw (headless). Take out the strain screw and put in the set screw with blue LocTite. Then I drill a small access hole in the grip to adjust it without removing the grip (optional). This way you can tune the mainspring to be the lightest reliable with any primers. Start out with a light setting where you are getting misfires and increase the mainspring tension with the setscrew in 1/8 turn increments until you get no misfires. Whatever mainspring comes in the gun works fine. Then try different rebound springs to find the lightest one that gives the trigger return action you want. It's a good idea to weigh the hammer pull with a trigger pull scale and record that number for future reference. That way if you have to take out the mainspring to work on the gun, you can simply put it back to that number with the trigger pull gage and not have to experiment all over again.This is the cheap, easy way to get the lightest trigger pull your primers will allow. It's not as good as having the action tuned by a good revo smith, but way better than factory.
  7. I never heard of Alfa Project. Where did that come from?
  8. Getting away from Remington .22 is always a good idea. The forcing cone on that gun may need to be recut as well. Clean it good and shoot different ammo (CCI or Federal) and you will find out. All the .22 I've shot is dirty regardless of brand.
  9. The Enosverse needs like buttons!
  10. Pinatas, of course. You called me El Guapo which reminded me of this scene. More humor.
  11. Jefe - do you know what a plethora is?
  12. I shoot them because I like them better than semi autos. I've been shooting them in competition since 1979. I have a pretty good stable of really nice ones now, so not much incentive to switch over. Besides, I think I'm about to get this revo shooting thing figured out.
  13. Toolguy

    Squibs

    Just this week I had 2 squib loads in 38 Super ammo with Federal 100 primers during a match. The bullets went just into the forcing cone and tied up the gun. I thought for sure they didn't have any powder. I pushed the bullets partly back into the case with a brass rod. When I pulled the bullets at home later, I discovered a full charge of unfired 231 powder in both. The primers had gone off strongly enough to unseat the bullets, but not burn the powder. These were primers that had been wet in the past and dried out for a long time, but looked funky. It was obvious they had been wet. The cardboard containers in the 1000 pack had gotten glued together and the priming compound on some had washed out into the plastic tray. I have used ones like this before with no problems. These were obviously a mess and I shouldn't have used them.
  14. I would use the .035 ones then. They probably only get stuck once in a blue moon...
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