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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Toolguy

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    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 03/01/1955

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    Kansas City area
  • Interests
    Owner, Protocall Design, a full service machine shop.
    Shooting pistol matches, hunting, fishing.
    30 + years Tool & Die Maker
    S&W Shooter
    Specialize in Prototypes of new inventions.
  • Real Name
    Warren Moore

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  1. Some assembly required...
  2. No, it won't cause any problems. I've done lots of them.
  3. Toolguy


    Welcome back J-Ho! Best wishes for the future. It is said that "The richest man is not the one who has the most, but rather the one who needs the least."
  4. Good to have you aboard. Enjoy!
  5. Yes, you need to drill the holes in the barrel to 1/16 as well, if going bigger. The roll pins are always a little bigger than nominal size, so they have to squeeze down a little to fit an on size hole. Then they are exerting ouward pressure that keeps them inplace. I like Spirol pins better than regular roll pins. The Spirol pins are stronger.
  6. Right. I had forgotten about that one. I'm not a fan of Taylor throating, It is one of the options, though.
  7. You are probably looking more at the target than the sights to start with, then getting more on the sights as you go along. Start with a hard focus on the sights, forget about seeing the hits, and just run the trigger. After 8 shots, THEN look to see how you did. Takes practice to see those sights for every shot. You might want to dry fire that way for a while, then live fire.
  8. The tight spot is caused by a barrel that is overtorqued, has too much "crush fit", or whatever you want to call it. The 2 ways to fix that are (1) remove the barrel and turn the shoulder back on the lathe so it's not so tight in the frame. Or (2) Fire lap the barrel.
  9. That usually happens on HBWC bullets if you push them too hard. They only work well for low velocity, light target loads.
  10. You can shoot Production, Metallic, Open, or any combination of two. There's no PCC in Bianchi.
  11. If your cylinder is not Titanium or have a hard coating, I will use my reamer if you send me the cylinder. As long as it's bare stainless or blued steel. The reamer was a $200 special so I don't want to ruin it on a hard coating.
  12. The main problem I've seen with rimless ammo in revolvers is that the chamber is cut to headspace on the case mouth like a semi auto. That leaves a square shoulder in there where lead, powder, and carbon build up. After it gets dirty, the cases don't seat fully without pushing them. On a semi- auto, there is only one round at a time, with a springloaded slide to ram it in there. On a revo, there are multiple rounds with only gravity to get them in. When I made my .40 revos out of 686 guns, I ordered a chambering reamer from Manson and specified a 10 degree taper from the case mouth to the bullet diameter (throat). That way there is no ledge for the crud to build up. It just goes out the barrel with the bullet. I had them make another .38 super reamer the same way. They both work great. For .45 ACP, I recut the chambers with a .45 Colt reamer, because the rimmed cartridge reamers all have that taper at the front.
  13. I'm using 6.5 grains of Power Pistol with a 125 Zero JHP with super good accuracy. That is about 132 PF. I have never got a plated bullet to shoot a decent group in any of my guns. All other kinds of bullet will do fine. YMMV
  14. Hi Ed - I'm Warren. Phone # is 913-422-8966. Give me a call, glad to help.

    1. GrumpyOne


      These conversations are best suited to a PM. Posting this on your status update page allows ALL members to see it.

    2. Toolguy


      I was trying to do a PM.  Guess I did it wrong. Can you help?

  15. Yes, I make the Stick Shift. If you would like, I will PM you my phone # and explain or answer any questions. The Stick Shift weighs 3 oz., is .680" tall, .840" wide, and 6-1/4" long. To use it, you pull the shift lever out and turn it 90 degrees. Then you push it to the right side for a target starting on the right, or push it to the left side for a target starting on the left. The lead is infinitely adjustable so you can set it to match your bullet velocity. Once you set the stops to establish lead, it only takes a couple of seconds to set it for right, left, or center. One setting is good for all distances. Just aim at the X all the time, the same as stationary targets.
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