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Toolguy

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About Toolguy

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    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=189
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas City area
  • Interests
    Owner, Protocall Design, a full service machine shop.
    Shooting pistol matches, hunting, fishing.
    30 + years Tool & Die Maker
    S&W Shooter
    Specialize in Prototypes of new inventions.
  • Real Name
    Warren Moore

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  1. I'm looking for a 610 10mm cylinder if anyone has an extra one lying around.
  2. This guy is on the S&W forum, too. He said he is sending the gun to S&W for a fix.
  3. The easy way to end up with a million dollars doing gunsmithing is to start with 5 million and dive in. You'll be there in no time. The other way, which is what nearly all of the successful ones have done, is to build a reputation (and lots of skills and knowledge) building guns, then start making killer quality aftermarket parts. You make your rep with builds, you make your money with parts. The reason is a build takes time. Everything is hand fitted. Each build is essentially a one off custom, even if you're doing a lot of the same ones. Parts can be made on CNC machines, super fast and accurate. You can have a pile of them and simply ship as you get orders. It all comes down to dollars per hour. You can make a lot more dollars per hour selling parts, assuming you have ones that are in demand. You might also see if there are gun shops in your area who are looking for gunsmith services. A lot of shops just want to sell stuff and aren't interested in getting into that field. If we knew where you are, someone might be able to make some suggestions.
  4. Oh well, better to be a has been than a never was...
  5. Shoot fast, don't miss. That works for all matches, I guess. Learn to shoot well one handed with either hand. You will be miles ahead of most shooters there on stages that require one hand shooting. Sometimes I do it anyway because it's faster or you don't have to lean nearly as far out from a barricade as you would shooting 2 hands.
  6. I have found that about 1/2 the time you can drop in and 1/2 the time you need fitting. Also, the depth inside where the end of the crane barrel goes can vary some. I have had good luck reaming for 38 Super. In mine 9mm still fits and I can still shoot all the 38 rimmed calibers too. The 357s will bulge a little at the bottom, due to the high pressure. I don't shoot many of them anyway.
  7. A firm crimp helps any powder burn more cleanly and completely. Velocity will usually be more uniform as well.
  8. I have astigmatism, also. I found that the dots look pretty good if I have glasses that focus where the dot is. For me, it's more a matter of focal length.
  9. The only problem with doing the lapping is it won't correct an off center crown (most of them are). All that does is polish what is there and makes it look nice. For accuracy, the crown has to be concentric with the bore. The only way to bring it back to center is with a piloted hand cutter or dialed in on a lathe. The pilot has to be a very close slip fit in the rifling. Brownell's has the proper tools. Your call.
  10. Theoretically speaking, I would just have one hand on each cheek...
  11. The 929 is a 9mm gun. Why not run 9mm and .035 or .040 moon clips? Then the headspace would be correct. The 9mm is exactly the same length as 38 Short Colt and would reload just as fast. You might want to check for a broken firing pin.
  12. The right length of firing pin works the best. There are many variables involved here. Some of the main ones are endshake, primer seating depth, headspace, rim thickness, moonclip thickness, etc. The longest factory pin I've seen is .495, the shortest was .482, and everything in between. The .495 is also the shortest length that seems to work reliably. Whatever pin is in there has to be long enough to make a deep enough dent in the primer for the combination of variables in that particular gun. In a perfect world, all parts of all guns and ammo would be exactly to drawing specs. In the real world, there will always be minor variations from the ideal desired perfection. The longer firing pin will help "flatten the curve" of deviations from the ideal. Some guns don't need an extended firing pin, some do. You can easily take the FP out and measure it to see what you're working with. I like to see the firing pin stick out about the thickness of a dime when the hammer is down. Make sure endshake is at a minimum. I use a #8-32 x 1/2" setscrew and blue Loctite for the strain screw. Tighten the mainspring lightly at first, shoot, advance in 1/8 turn increments, shoot, etc. until no misfires. Then another 1/8 turn to catch that 1 in 100 misfire. Then find the lightest rebound spring that gives a good trigger return feel. Then you will have the lightest trigger pull for that gun without extra parts or gunsmithing. You can usually get into the 6 to 7 pound range with factory parts that way.
  13. New prototype hammer I'm getting ready to patent. The trigger pull gets lighter as you pull it back. The last 1/8" or so of the trigger pull is the same as a S/A pull would be, based on whatever rebound spring is in there. You can dial it up for whatever primer you're using, but it always ends up the same at the end. The Federals start at 5.5 to 6, CCI starts around 9 to 9.5. There are not hard numbers because every gun is different, springs vary, pull gages are not all the same, etc. and measurements aren't exact. I'm getting about 2-1/2 with a 12 lb. Wolff rebound. The rebound springs give from around 2-1/4 for a Wolff 11 lb. to 3-3/4 to 4 lb. for a S&W factory. All the other Wolff ones are somewhere in between. This is measuring the pull weight of the trigger with rebound only, with hammer and mainspring out.
  14. I load on 550s and I just firmly seat the primer in the pocket.The 550 has a good feel for primer seating. I never worried about measuring the depth and mine all work fine. They DO have to be firmly set to the bottom, but I never crushed them past that point. That might make them more sensitive, I don't know. Try different things and find what works for you. I have found through experimentation that a .500 to .505 firing pin with a full radius nose works the best ( of the ones I've tried), and a Carmonized (at least hammer spur bobbed) hammer will give reliable ignition with a lighter mainspring. I'm running about 5.5 down to 2.5 pound D/A trigger with 100% on Federal primers with my 627s. For the extraction problem, you have to get the gun fairly vertical, then hit and release the extractor very quickly. If you hold the extractor out, the cases tend to not fall freely.
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