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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Toolguy

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    Kansas City area
  • Interests
    Owner, Protocall Design, a full service machine shop.
    Shooting pistol matches, hunting, fishing.
    30 + years Tool & Die Maker
    S&W Shooter
    Specialize in Prototypes of new inventions.
  • Real Name
    Warren Moore

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  1. Normally, flat base bullets shoot better groups than bevel base bullets. However, there are many variables, so you can't accurately make blanket assumptions. The target downrange is always the final judge as to what works and what doesn't, for gun and ammo both.
  2. Modern version - A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single credit card.
  3. In this guns and ammo climate, $400 is a good price. Everything in .32 cal. is going for more than that.
  4. Sounds like you need a little bit bigger forcing cone and possibly tighter cylinder gap. That lead has to come from somewhere, and the bullet is the only lead part of the equation.
  5. To Loctite a comp to the threads, the best one I have found is 620 green. Use plenty on both threads, inside and out, and wipe off the excess.
  6. I use the 11 degree forcing cone because that's the one I like the looks of. There is no "magic angle" for forcing cone or muzzle crown. As long as they are concentric to the bore, smooth, and the right size, just about any will work. I can't tell any difference in accuracy between a 5, 11, or 18 degree fc. I get 3/8" groups at 25 yards and a little over an inch at 50 yards from a 6" 686 in a Ransom Rest. The barrel on that gun has an 11 degree fc. The bullets are 125 gr. JHP. I don't think I'm losing much in the accuracy dept. The main barrel related things that affect accuracy and leading in a revo are: forcing cone, chamber to barrel alignment, barrel constriction just ahead of forcing cone, and muzzle crown. If all those are in spec. and you're still getting leading, it's ammo related. Ammo could be too soft lead (swaged), wrong bullet lube, too hot powder charge, etc.
  7. Drilling a drill point in the threads is the way to go. I would go with steel setscrews so the hex doesn't wallow out. Brass is very soft. When you make a drill point for the end of the setscrew, it won't mess up the threads. You do need to Loctite the setscrew(s). Also, it will always go back on to the same position every time if you take it off for any reason.
  8. Who makes moonclips for .22 rimfire? The .006 is just the right amount of cylinder gap for shooting lead or lead and jacketed. You can have a bit less if only shooting jacketed, and keep endshake to a minimum.
  9. That's because Julie is an excellent person. I don't know anyone who would not agree.
  10. I get whatever I can get and make them into what they should have been to start with.
  11. Yep - forcing cone needs to be bigger and/or cylinder timing. A lot of guns now have the hand too wide, which pushes the chamber centerline past the centerline of the barrel. Need to check alignment with a range rod.
  12. Clean and inspect the firing pin channel, check for close fit of firing pin to hole, and free manual operation of firing pin when replaced.
  13. There is no groove spec on rimmed ammo. That groove is just to make sure there is no radius in the corner of the rim that would interfere with the chamber and extractor. Each brass maker just does it however they want to. There is an extractor groove spec on rimless.
  14. I like Power Custom pins the best. They are made of S-7 (shock resistant) tool steel.
  15. No need to. the brass (360 alloy) is soft enough it won't damage the steel if you do the pilot to guide it in and press it straight. That is assuming it had a good crown to begin with. S&W doesn't have a good track record with crowns and forcing cones.
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