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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Toolguy

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    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 03/01/1955

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    Kansas City area
  • Interests
    Owner, Protocall Design, a full service machine shop.
    Shooting pistol matches, hunting, fishing.
    30 + years Tool & Die Maker
    S&W Shooter
    Specialize in Prototypes of new inventions.
  • Real Name
    Warren Moore

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  1. Also, the wadcutter should be seated flush with the case mouth.
  2. The only revolvers I ever had a problem with were ones chambered for semi auto calibers. The end of the chamber for those has a square shoulder that catches lead, carbon, powder, etc. in the sharp corner. After shooting for a while, it can build up enough to keep the rounds from going in all the way. The revo has multiple rounds all fed in by gravity, so it doesn't take much to hang it up. A semi auto has one round being shoved in by a (relatively) heavy spring loaded slide. It takes a lot more for that to not seat. The rimmed chambers all have a tapered funnel going from the case size (chamber) to the bullet size (throat), which allows most of the crud in front of the case mouth to just go out the barrel. My solution for the 9mm, 40 S&W, 45 ACP, etc., is to make the same tapered funnel transition in those cylinders, as well. Then you can run them all day the same as the rimmed calibers, and they drop all the way in every time.
  3. It looks like he doesn't know the proper use of fixturing and edge finding. Those are very basic skills for using a mill. You can't just eyeball this kind of work and expect it to come out right. You have to be able to do precision measuring of the setup before cutting.
  4. The way to see if the barrel is straight in the frame is to put a straightedge along the sides of the top strap and see if it's the same distance from the front end of the barrel on both sides. It will be pretty obvious if it's off one way or the other.
  5. A lot of people are using the Hogue Big Butt grips for Bianchi. Just for the record - the mover base on that one is not a Stick Shift. It is a somewhat similar knockoff.
  6. Watch what the sights are doing in relationship to each other as you are making the shot. The sights have to be correctly lined up together THROUGH the shot in order to make the bullet go where you want it to. Hold still till the bullet is on the target. Don't try to counteract the recoil, just hold still. You only have control of the bullet out to the end of the barrel. Therefore, you have to know and control what the gun is doing in your hands. Whatever is downrange is irrelevant.
  7. Maybe you should "double tap" instead of "double crap" your targets............. You are probably looking at the target instead of the sights.
  8. The silhouette sight is made of steel. It is not plastic.
  9. Me too. I can't visualize which one that would be.
  10. I've seen lots of them. Ron built some of the best PPC guns made. I shot with a lot of people that had them back when PPC was going strong.
  11. Doesn't pay much, but you get to keep the tips...
  12. The easy way to get the flag back in is to raise the bottom of the grip, leaving the top of the gun on the bench. Gravity keeps the hammer block (flag) in the "up" position while you get the sideplate back on. Super easy.
  13. The teeny little spring in the cylinder bolt is not a problem. What they are trying to correct is pressure of the bolt on the center pin that makes the cylinder a wee bit harder to turn. The real way to fix that is to file some metal off the back radius of the thumblatch where it butts up against the slot in the frame when the cylinder is closed. Once there is a bit of free play between where the bolt touches the center pin and where the thumblatch stops on the frame (pulling it backwards), then the problem is fixed. The small centerpin spring is what needs relieved. It is much stronger than the cylinder bolt spring.
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