1st revolver, need helping cleaning

[Spray_N_Prey]

Ok I bought a couple revolvers and had trigger jobs done on them and love 'em. The only thing is I shoot lead and tightgroup, which is about the dirtiest combo there is. I normally shoot Glock so I clean them once a year no matter if they need it or not

But after about 300-400 rounds I noticed the trigger was getting "sticky" at the beginning of the trigger pull. It felt like the cylinder was dragging or something. Well after a friends advise, I bought some pressurized cleaner and was told to spray down where the hammer use to be and let it run out of the bottom. Repeat several times and then use a little oil and an air compressor and done. Does this sound like sound advise? if not, how should I clean my revolvers and after how many rounds.

[Toolguy]

That way is OK to clean the inside of the gun, take the grips off first. A lot of times when the cylinder turns hard

it is one of 3 things. 1- Trash has gotten under the extractor from ejecting fired cases with powder residue in

the chambers. Clean out by extending the extractor and cleaning the 2 mating surfaces with a toothbrush.

2- Lead buildup on the front of the cylinder dragging on the back of the barrel. Clean by firing jacketed bullets

or with a stainless toothbrush. 3- Powder residue in the crane-cylinder interface (cylinder axle). Remove crane

from cylinder and spray brake parts cleaner in center hole of cyl., blow out with compressed air. Clean off

crane with rag. Apply thin viscosity oil to crane, reassemble.

[Carmoney]

Shawn,

I agree 100% with Toolguy's advice in the above post, although I think the cylinder will only need to be removed once in a great while. (Be sure to use a little blue loc-tite on the yoke screw when you put it back together, to make sure it doesn't back out and allow your cylinder to fall out inadvertently.)

I recommend fairly frequent cleaning of competition revolvers. I always start any major match with a clean gun. If I start with a clean gun, I should not have to ever clean or brush between stages.

On my revolvers I use a stainless steel "toothbrush" to get the gunk off the front of the cylinder face, from around the rear of the barrel, and around the area of the frame where the firing pin comes through. I also use a plastic toothbrush to clean the extractor ratchet and under the star, and an oversize stainless bore brush to clean the chambers. I use Shooter's Choice solvent for these tasks. I clean the bore with Shooter's Choice as well, but I don't believe that tons of bore-scrubbing is necessary or desirable. If you get lead build-up in the bore, a cylinder-full of jacketed ammo will strip it right out.

I generally do not intentionally spray anything down inside the action of the gun during routine cleaning, although a little solvent or oil getting in there won't hurt anything. While you don't need (or want) a bunch of lube inside the action, I usually apply a little synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1, for example) to the internals when I reassemble a gun after doing the action work. If you spray brake cleaner or Gunscrubber down inside the action, you will strip out that lube and leave it completely dry--conversely, a spray oil will leave everything soaked with oil down inside there--neither of these conditions is ideal.

The only place I intentially lube as a matter of routine is the yoke barrel. You don't even need to take out the cylinder, just add a drop of Mobil 1 at the junction, hold the gun muzzle up and spin the cylinder, which will let the oil work itself down in there.

Then once a year, in my "off-season," I will take off the sideplate and give my match gun a thorough cleaning, using a plastic toothbrush and Shooter's Choice. Then I dry everything off and reassemble with a little Mobil 1, loctiting all the screws afterward. That's it.

You may have noticed I do not recommend using any sort of grease anywhere on a revolver. Trust me, grease will only serve to attract dirt and gunk up the works.

[Spray_N_Prey]

Sounds good, I did use my friends advise and used the gunscrubber type blast cleaner then added a quick spray of oil and used the air compressor to spread it out. After cleaning, the gun acted as new again. Why didn't somebody tell me I had to clean these damn guns. HEHE

[Tom E]

Sounds good, I did use my friends advise and used the gunscrubber type blast cleaner then added a quick spray of oil and used the air compressor to spread it out. After cleaning, the gun acted as new again. Why didn't somebody tell me I had to clean these damn guns. HEHE

Go down to your local auto parts store and buy brake cleaner instead of paying a bunch more for "gunscrubber".

[dajarrel]

In my humble opinion, the only way to properly clean a revolver is to remove the sideplate, remove the various parts, remove the dirt/oil, relube it and re-assemble. Spraying brake cleaner (or gun scrubber) into the action will remove all the oil if applied liberally enough but if you don't make sure that you are putting oil on the trigger and hammer studs and other friction surfaces, you are going to prematurely wear them out.

Just my thoughts on how I clean my revolver

fwiw

dj

[Carmoney]

And I maintain that many well-intentioned but over-zealous folks take their revolvers apart and dick around inside them far more frequently than necessary.

I'm serious when I say there's no reason to disassemble your wheelgun for a deep cleaning more than about once a year. If that.

My very first competition revolver, which was already well-used when I purchased it 22 years ago, is still in active service--it's my son's main competition revolver. I can't remember the last time I had the sideplate off.

[wagonpilot]

And I maintain that many well-intentioned but over-zealous folks take their revolvers apart and dick around inside them far more frequently than necessary.

I'm serious when I say there's no reason to disassemble your wheelgun for a deep cleaning more than about once a year. If that.

My very first competition revolver, which was already well-used when I purchased it 22 years ago, is still in active service--it's my son's main competition revolver. I can't remember the last time I had the sideplate off.

So what points inside do get oiled and what stays dry?

[20nickels]

And I maintain that many well-intentioned but over-zealous folks take their revolvers apart and dick around inside them far more frequently than necessary.

I'm serious when I say there's no reason to disassemble your wheelgun for a deep cleaning more than about once a year. If that.

My very first competition revolver, which was already well-used when I purchased it 22 years ago, is still in active service--it's my son's main competition revolver. I can't remember the last time I had the sideplate off.

So what points inside do get oiled and what stays dry?

Dry is the operative word. I keep everything as clean as possible, when I do get in there, Then I give it a quick shot of Hornaday balack label One Shot before I put the sideplate back on.

[mwx40x40]

What is best for getting the sooty black stuff off the outside the cylinder? I shoot Clays and Cast bullets.

[lugnut]

What is best for getting the sooty black stuff off the outside the cylinder? I shoot Clays and Cast bullets.

I wouldn't mind an answer to this as well. My gun is strickly for competition and I'm starting to think some 0000 steel wool. This is a bitch to clean!

I've tried finding an answer via searching but haven't found anything yet....

[Bubber]

What is best for getting the sooty black stuff off the outside the cylinder? I shoot Clays and Cast bullets.

Mpro 7 and a wire or bronze brush. To get the stuff out of the fluted area one can use the empty brass from the 38 special. Not that I have ever been accused of cleaning my revo. later rdd

[Merlin Orr]

Stripping/cleaning the "rich patina" off a gun decreases the value....

[Team Amish 1]

Stripping/cleaning the "rich patina" off a gun decreases the value....

... but if you MUST, paper towel and Hoppe's Elite works pretty good on cylinders.

[GMM50]

Like Mike says......

Once a year I take my revolvers apart and soak them in a ammo can full of Dupont Prepsol for a couple of days. It's used to remove oil and wax of cars before painting. IT's mils and some of my revolvers have fiber front sights. If you're careful inserting and removing the parts one gal will last 10 years.

The Prepsol softens up everything. A wire brush will take the crud away.

Then light oiling with the lightest oil you can find and a small drop on the inside moving surfaces.

I take the cylinders out before major matches and soak and clean. Probably not needed but old dogs and such.

I shoot mostly Clays and molly or copper washed bullets

george

Edited December 12, 2010 by GMM50

[jasond]

Why are we trying to get the black stuff off the outside of the cylinder again? That "rich patina" lets the competition know you've been doing this for awhile, and they had better watch and learn!

Seriously, the stuff on the front of the cylinder should be a self limiting problem, and there isn't really a way for dirt to get under the sideplate and into the trigger parts. If you brush out the cylinder, under the star, and keep some oil on the yoke, you've done a good enough job.

[Ahab]

Any thoughts on using one of those ultrasonic cleaners on your competition revos? A local range has one that I can use, but I'm not 100% comfortable with it. My main concern is making sure the gun is properly lubricated after its trip through the ultrasonic.

Thoughts?

[Shooting4life]

The ultrasonics work well at cleaning but you would then need to take the revolver apart and oil as necessary. I fully strip all my revolvers when I purchase them and clean and oil. The fast majority will never be cleaned like that again as they get shot only a couple of time a year. The 17/617 get cleaned much more often as they get ford 1000x more than any centerfire I own.

[latech15]

Birchwood Casey lead removal cloths clean the black rings completely off the front of the cylinder in a matter of seconds.

I am one of those guys who shows everyone as soon as I start shooting that I haven't been doing this very long. If I start with a perfectly clean gun, them at least I can tell them that I would have done better if it weren't for this brand new gun.

[Jaxshooter]

They make a treated rag for stainless steel guns to remove the powder residue etc. DO NOT TOUCH A BLUED GUN WITH IT. I wipe down the outside of my stainless revolvers once a yaer with these when I take the gun apart for annual cleaning. They were available from Midway. I bought several 5 + years ago so I haven't looked to see if they still carry them.

[Matt Griffin]

Get the guts where you want them, then leave them alone. I also shoot lead bullets, and I have yet to see an issue besides general leading inside the barrel and cylinder that would cause a noticeable problem. I hit the cylinder and frame with a dremel and brass brush between big sessions, primarily to clean out the face of the cylinder and the stop notches, but the only performance difference I see is the funk inside the chambers and barrel that start grabbing cases. I tend to swab those out every 200 rounds or so.

M.

[Pete Whyte]

To remove crap from a stainless gun I use Nevr-dull. You can get a can in an automotive store. You may be able to buy it at Walmart as well. It seems it's cotton soaked in some type of cleaner. One 5oz. can should last you a looooong time.

[wheelie]

Blue Wonder cleaner will remove all the crud off the outside (and inside) by simply applying it and letting sit for 5-10 minutes and then a good going over with a toothbrush. Rinse with HOT water, then a blast of Remoil, PG2000, Starett M1 or similar and wipe it dry. Another method uses Hoppes or similar bore cleaner (GI, EdsRed, etc) and giving the gun a coating, scrubbing with toothbrush letting it sit then wiping off a bit later. No need for hot water rinse or subsequent oiling. I do use a bore brush with either method. If you pay attention and don't let the cleaner on the outside drool into the inside works, you will rarely need to remove the sideplate.

I clean the cylinder and chambers most carefully, then the bore. A smudge or two on the outside hardly matters but I usually have a pretty shiny clean gun when its over. Otherwise (IMO) I am not prepared to shoot the next time. I like being prepared and ready to go.

Edited March 26, 2013 by wheelie

[wdlong1]

I dont shoot my revo that often, so I clean it pretty good every time I shoot it. I remove the side plate and just dab what I can see with a paper towel then spray it all lightly with an aerosol oil of some kind. The outside I take my time with. I spray the cylinder down with ballistol and let it sit while I do the rest. I will spray all of the loose parts with balistol as well. Wipe down the outside and scrub inside the frame where the cylinder goes and get all of the leading and carbon out of there. I then run a bore snake down the barrel a couple of times and if I have shot lead, I will use a lewis lead remover to clean the forcing cone. I then go to the cylinder. I will hook up a brass brush in a drill and really clean the snot out of the cylinders. I will then scrub down the outside so that it is clean all over. I then use a birchwood casey lead removal cloth on the front end. It takes some scrubbing, but it gets clean eventually. Put it all back together with a light coating of oil and back into the safe for another year.

[Yelrdog]

Lewis lead remover is great for leading. Flitz is good for front of cylinder esp. on stainless. Don't gunk up your gun's innards and don't leave the friction parts dry. Cinderella, baby.