20nickels

I got the Manson finish reamer and used it yesterday. Three turns with no downward pressure shaved just enough metal to chamber my handload flush, plunk test. EFK did finally call me last week but results were inconclusive over the phone and to be fair I was working and had to cut the call short. They seemed very willing to help. Will try to get out to shoot it soon.

513-051-901WB Rimless Pistol Cartridge, 9mm Luger Finisher Ordering this, I'll try to let you know how it works. tks again for the replies.

Sorry, nets been down due to storms. Throats are both .358. I'm going to have the efk worked on and end this silliness. I have someone in mind but they may not have the correct reamers, open to suggestions. It's again.

Good question, it can't be both can it. I'll push another in tonight, I thought I saw lands last time but it's gotta hit the throating 1st right??

These are a very consistent .357" Don't have a gauge. Yes, I increased crimp a silly amount and that didn't help. I considered an undersized die when buying the dies but thought I would try these 1st, Hornady. A sized case sits (plunk test) flush and so does factory Federal RN's and Critical defense ammo so I'm not sure an undersized die would help but tks for the suggestions. My TC's are clearly engraved by the lands when a 1.016" cartridge is shoved in.

I've already got 11k of these boolits plus the mould.

^ ^^ Exactly, I'll shoot off an email to EFK and see if they'll ream it for me and save me 70 clams. I'll try and post their reply. edit, email sent June, 17.

A sized case sits flush in the EFK chamber, a bullet pushed way down to .999 oal sits flush as well (a squatty Lyman truncated cone anyway @ 1.016 oal standard). It's the throating or leade or whatever you call it that's holding the cartridge up and preventing the pistol from going into battery every 10 rds. So I can make something work in this EFK barrel I'm sure but mebe too short to cycle 100 percent in most 9mm's. I want to buy lotsa nines. Any advice welcome, tks so far.. good stuff.

Sounds like you need to use the "Plunk Test" to determine a new OAL for your new barrel. Probably have to shorten your OAL to fit your new barrel/chamber. I'm using the plunk sorrry didn't mention that. Kept shortening the OAL and didn't see any change in plunk.. must be on the case mouth already, dunno. Even post sized a loaded round which helped a little but still above flush. I'll try a sized case. If it comes to that, who around here has reamers?

I'm new to 9mm and like everything else want to reload for it. I ordered an EFK barrel for the Glock to shoot lead and the chamber is much tighter. They claim somewhere, from memory I couldn't find it, the chamber is .002" tighter than standard. Nice barrel but I need reliability before ultimate accuracy for three gun and USPSA. Should I have the EFK reamed to a more standard spec 9mm as I'm having trouble even getting an OAL that fits the "match" chamber much less how it's going to perform once fouled w/ mixed brass 9mm handloads. The OEM Glock barrel swallows the cartridge perfectly flush with the barrel breach. I plan on more 9mm's and want a load for them all. Don't have time to play favorites. Any thoughts? Tks ahead.

Demand (politely) a repalcement scope when you talk to Burris.

3.9gr WST in Spl case, 4.0-4.1 in a Magnum case. Lee 158 gr RNFP. Burns clean, meters very consistent for flake powder and puts down steel.

I've been using a Lee universal Expnder die lately to bell my cases as opposed to the supplied belling die or powder drop expander. It expands your brass wider and deeper making it easier and less messy to load lead. Sure it works my brass more, but It's worth it. Use it for jacketed as well.

Love mine. Was looking for a Dillon 550 when I lucked into a factory reconditioned LNL. Changed to the EZ-ject subplate last year, big improvement with the .38's. The bushings are genious. I want to shim up a Lee Classic Cast to interchange my already set up dies with the LNL. Lately I've been using the RCBS lube die to quickly crank out rifle rounds on the LNL.

Before you do all of that, give Springer Precision a call. http://www.springerprecision.com/ If anyone knows what can and can not be done "correctly" on an XD platform, he will know. He is also a vendor on the board. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=160 I have spoken with him previously and have a couple of Springer parts in my XD. I had no idea, tks. I'll talk at them. I'm not particularly set on the Sig I just thought the added blasty gases would work a comp real well and tame the beast. If I can get the same result from 9 or 40, that would be the smart choice.

Deb is who I spoke with as well. I guess the simple answer is, Mas Ayoob has sold me on the Sig. I used to think it was an answer without a question, but they did it, a 125gr 357 in an auto. I'll contact some barrel MFG'ers and bounce some of these questions off of them. I don't mind tinkering a bit, I'm just trying to keep from making a costly mistake like "oh, you should have bought a 40 or 357 in the 1st place because the 9 won't convert to Sig". Minor 9mm is certainly the most practical answer though for a litany of reasons.

Springfield answered one of my questions; Me -Can I purchase XD slides/uppers for caliber changes in my XD's? If so, where can I find them Springfield -No, there are no XD/XDm slides, frames or barrels available for purchase separately. I am not opposed to major 9mm if it works on the XD platform. One would think that if 357 works major 9 would as well, but these things are rarely as simple as they appear. Any idea what pressures major 9 runs at? As for reloading, I did some extensive searching on this forum and others at one time and the consensus was that the bottleneck was not a big deal. In fact one bloke from Australia, where the 357 is big due to caliber restrictions, got hold of a pile of .40 brass and runs it right through the sizer mixed in with his necked brass. If I remember right he used the Hornady One Shot in the big ziplock bag and shake the brass around trick. This is something I do anyway. It doesn't take long and really eases things up. I shot a friend's XD9 recently and absolutely loved it. That's the only caliber I tried in the XD, though I regularly shoot and carry a 5 shot .357 magnum so I get the idea. Really wakes up the new RO's

I have lots O fun with a 4" model 10 and standard .38 SPL. length cases. 158 gr boolits hit to POA and put down steel well enough over a helping of WST. Probably more powder than I'm comfortable printing here, but it shoots clean and the M-10 eats them just fine.

phil, tks for the reply. This is a carry gun that I screw on a comp for games, putting it in the Open division. I find the 1911 platform too heavy and expensive among other things. I want the range of the 357 and assume it will work a comp better than a 40. If reloading, wouldn't it be approx. the same $ to load for as .40? More powder but less lead and using resized .40 brass.

Looking at XD's as a gun I can use for many informal competitions one of which being a .357 sig comped open gun on a 5" slide. Can I start with any XD caliber service or Tac and go from there or is there any hard and fast rules that make this work like extractor changes, barrel conversions, caliber to start with? Would it be easier to just get one and buy an extra uppers/slide and go from there. Where do I buy extra slides/uppers? I am buying used so I can't get to picky about which caliber or slide length I start with, but I see the service models going much cheaper than the tacticals. Lotsa questions I know, I'm one of them roundy gunners dipping my toes in the auto waters and want to do it right.

Agreed, very good stuff. I would nominate this for sticky if the videos stayed over time.

A weeks worth of antibiotics should clear that right up. Tom

I would think jacketed bullets would have an effect on barrel life vs. lead or plated.

I think 41mag was using one on a 617. Said he liked it, honestly I don't know why more shooters don't use them.

Out of curiousity, how are you getting lube on the base? I have cast probably 100k 175 TC with bevel bases and don't think I have ever seen it. I agree with you on the 6 cavity, but the only company that I know of who makes a 6 cavity mould to order is Lee and they said it would be well over a year by the time it is all said and done. Lee I'm using an OLD Lyman sizer, and the lube gets on the bevel on the down or up stroke (don't know which). Flat bases sit flush with the "platform" they ride on, and I don't have the issue. Maybe i'm doing something wrong, any help is welcome. Exactly as I understand it. Lube on the base or not depends on the sizer. Star sizers are clean once dialed in. BTW castboolits has group buys on heavy .40 moulds.