jasond

001100100010001 = 6417

No worries about brass life - I've shot my starline .38 sc around 20X. Because I'm lazy, I leave the powder measure set and use the same load for .38 special.

NX?

Winchester brass seems to fit well in my S&W clips, but is loose in my TK and Brownells. Everything else is loose in the S&W clips.

Tons of revolver participation in Orlando in IDPA and ICORE, we get as stated 20-40 ICORE entries every month, and 2 guys at the state USPSA match? Revolver isn't a dying breed...

I'm gonna spill the beans and give away the big secret to revolver shooting - make up some dummy cartridges and practice reloads 'til it hurts.

You may want to shoot 5 and check the oal on the last, I've had taper crimped lead bullets pull a little.

I believe that's the button which engages launch control. The red LED under the dash indicates "track mode", which turns off traction control.

I'll assume that the freebore (distance bullet has to go before it hits rifling) is less on the 646 because it's chambered for a shorter cartridge, which would help it be more accurate. I get reduced accuracy shooting .38 short colt in my .357, for example, all else equal. That said, there's enough variance from gun to gun to give an answer, but people with experience with both I'm sure have noticed some trends.

Bob, try a faster powder. I've never used ramshot silhouette, but it may not burn consistently at low pressure. I get red dot and clays from my club for cost, and only need 3.2 for 130pf with a 158grn. Titegroup and w231 have worked for me, too. The Billy Bullets, btw, are fantastic! The 160 has the crimp groove in a bad spot though, didn't pursue that design but it shot 1" @25m in .38 special cases! The 135 was a little worse, in .38 short colt cases, a little worse yet. The 170 should be better. Good luck!

It's for the clip to sit on a magnet, would make sense that it would be the same circle as the 6-shot 686. Thanks!

I'm making a moon clip holder for the 686+ seven shot, and need a good number for how big the post can be. Could someone pretty please give me a measurement? The web between two adjacent chambers would be fine, I can figure out the rest. (or the cad program will for me, anyway.) Looking for a better number than "I use 1/2" pvc and it fits".

Mine was pretty snug, I put a beer bottle in it and softened the back side with a heat gun to open it. Dremeled the top a little. It has nice suede-like stuff on the inside that doesn't scratch up the gun, it's secure, and the angle is nice. I think all of the fancy open type race rigs are a lot more money, and more to go wrong.

Steel challenge is all transitions, so a light gun may be better for most. I have a 5" V-comp, and it's a bit of a pig for that game. Nice for Icore, though. I shot a 627 .38 super the other week, I think it's 6.5", nice balance.

The flex on small, cheap machines will damage tools and negate any savings, in addition to being difficult and time consuming to set up and do good work on. There's the same difference between a bridgeport and a big cnc. It wouldn't matter so much in plastic and aluminum, but on good steels it gets really noticeable!

I've been ignoring the same thing on my carry gun for 5 years now.

I shoot thumbs forward like robot in the pics, but switch to thumb over thumb for really powerful guns. My weak hand thumb just gets dirty, but my strong hand thumb on the recoil shield can be painful! It took me a little while to not touch the cylinder with my weak hand thumb.

I bought my wife a 642 so we wouldn't have to share the sp101, and because it's lighter. She prefers the ruger, as do I.

+1. It appears that they screw the barrel to the receiver, then do the machining. You can't wear one of these things out. Great pistols.

I can see a comp making a difference on a really light gun, I could tell a difference when I used stingers too. Stingers made pistol shoot noticeably flatter with the comp, and vise versa without it. They do work. I just don't think being obligated to clean the thing is worth the gain on the average .22. I shoot bricks of ammo through my SC pistol without cleaning it, almost as much through my rifles. Also, most of the new shooters I've brought to the range were much more scared of the noise and percussion than the recoil. Comps do look super cool though! Splashdown's just looks right!

I shoot steel with a 627 v-comp all the time, as well as sometimes icore or uspsa production. When I shoot steel, as a consideration to others waiting, I always use moonclips. I've tried 148 dewc also, and while it's light recoiling and very accurate, it's irritating to deal with loaded in moonclips. I shoot a 135 moly in short colt cases for icore and uspsa, and same bullet (convenience) in 38 cases, well under power factor, for steel. A buddy has a TRR8 which has a alloy frame/SS cylinder, and also has a 627 with a ti cylinder. To be blunt, the trr8 is crap compared to the 627, to my hands at least. The TRR8 has a weird balance, the trigger is junk, and the light frame / heavy cyl. make it torque when you're trying to go fast. I prefer his 627 to my own SS/SS gun, it's a real sweetheart. Never handled the 327s, but they should be great for minor pf!

The comp I used to have on my .22 doesn't do much but act as a muzzle weight. I could tell more of a difference if I used CCI stingers, though. On a rifle, there should be less pressure to work it. They'll fill with lead and carbon, which is nearly impossible to get out. I'd skip the brake. Also, you may as well just admit you want the gun for yourself and get her a pink cricket.

I've ruined some full wadcutter .38 rounds with the lee factory crimp die, maybe you could pull one out of different head stamps and measure them?

You can kill a lion with one round of .22, if you walk up to him and shoot him in the ear. I'm not that tactical of a guy, but I'm guessing people generally run away when you show them that you have a gun. Failing that, first guy to score a good hit wins. Failing that, you'll want something belt fed, because you shouldn't have hung around that long! I carry around a really pretty Ruger SP101 in a belt holster with speer 135 .357s. I got the boss a 642 with the same bullets in .38+P and full size grips. Sometimes she lets me borrow it, but it's a little big for a pocket without the boot grips it came with. In my experience, miniaturizing pistols doesn't make them more reliable, so the revos just work for us.

Why are we trying to get the black stuff off the outside of the cylinder again? That "rich patina" lets the competition know you've been doing this for awhile, and they had better watch and learn! Seriously, the stuff on the front of the cylinder should be a self limiting problem, and there isn't really a way for dirt to get under the sideplate and into the trigger parts. If you brush out the cylinder, under the star, and keep some oil on the yoke, you've done a good enough job.