wdlong1

9 major, I wouldn't shoot them. 40, maybe. Depends upon how big the crack is. 1/16th or so, yeah, WTH not. Never had an issue.

I have a block with TTI parts for very cheap and I bought one that had a Zev trigger in it. I can tell very little difference in the two when dry firing, and zero during live fire. The machining does look cool, but if you are going to spend that kind of cash, sell the glock and put that cash with it and buy a cool looking used STI.

So what do you call a SV single stack?

Could you use those grips in production? They seem to form a pretty good magwell.

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.waffen-oschatz.de%2FCZ_75_SP01_Viper.html

I will take one.

yeah, WHY would we want to encourage anyone to WORK at getting better I could MAYBE see having one or two nice items with a random draw, with EVERYONE included. But this EVERYBODY'S a winner crap is just THAT. I ran a race track for about 10 years, we only gave awards to the TOP 3 (or 1/3), top 5 if there were 25+ in the class. So if there happened to be only 3 in a class, guess what only ONE got a prize. MOST people understood, the "everybody wins" group . I told many when they complained, "if you WANT a prize , go home and PRACTICE". AMEN!

I have been told before that I messed a target that I shot at and moved on past. "second from left" or something like that was the instruction from the RO. That was at the ozarks match a few years ago. The RO's there had their own set of rules.... I have always liked that part about 3 gun...that it wasn't as crazy about rules as USPSA. If you asked the RO a question and then acted upon his response, chances are that the previous poster was right, you are already out of the running anyway. I have never been a real contender to the point that a few seconds and a little help from an RO ever made much of a difference anyway though.

me 2

Ken -- just sent you an email but thought I might ask here. Have you thought of putting in a place for the WSB in practiscore. I am aware of USPSA rule 3.2.1 but I still think it would be useful and would allow us to go completely paperless. Just a thought. Thanks for your great app!!

My son would like to have a few friends go see this movie for a birthday party. He is turning 7. Are there any parts of the movie that a 7 yr old shouldn't be subjected to?

If those are the conditions, I assume that you are using the gun as a carry piece. In that case, Glock. or J frame. I say again though, if we are talking about a competition gun (since this is basically a competition forum) the vast improvements of the 1911/2011 platform over a glock or a j-frame make it an easy winner.

I watched your video and I can't tell if the grooves were cut out in the last step to leave flat bottoms in the cutouts or if you flattened the bottoms. I really liked the grooves in there. That looked almost animalistic.

I'm not sure what the indented purpose of the gun is and that is going to make a huge difference. I agree with what others have said about not messing with it, but the biggest issue that I see is ammo. Always running factory ammo is going to increase the probability of having your gun run more than any other factor. I can't shoot a factory glock nearly as accurately as a 1911/2011. If I am carrying for SD then a Glock is plenty accurate enough and I know that it will run. If it is for competition, the trigger is a big enough factor for me to go with the 1911/2011. I can keep them in a 8" group at 50 yards offhand with my 2011. With the glock at 50, I can't guarantee that they will all be on the paper. I know, I know, the grass is greener where you water it. I have a Bedell Custom 9mm open gun (which is notoriously hard to tune for reliability) that has never missed a lick in 10000 rounds if you take out two times where a round with a mashed sideways primer made it into the mags. An open gun isn't a very good carry option, but I wouldn't hesitate to carry a 1911 that Dan built.

Ghost Stinger. I don't have one, but have seen them. They look really nice.

"At the heart of the Vinci Speed-Bolt is the In-Line Inertia Driven System, utilizing Benelli’s new Speed-Bolt – a bolt inset with tungsten, designed for faster cycling and handling loads as light as one ounce—and that means less recoil and muzzle climb. Experienced tactical competition shooters appreciate and value less recoil and muzzle climb in terms of getting on target quicker after the first shot. The next shot can be taken quickly and efficiently, which is critical for scoring winning times." Whereas most of the custom shotgun builders are lightening the bolt, Benelli's speed bolt appears to be "extra heavy" from the factory. (assuming that "inset with Tungsten" means that it is heavier than the factory bolt.) Not really sure that I understand that formula, but I am no doctor.

Supermoto said all that needs to be said.

I dont shoot my revo that often, so I clean it pretty good every time I shoot it. I remove the side plate and just dab what I can see with a paper towel then spray it all lightly with an aerosol oil of some kind. The outside I take my time with. I spray the cylinder down with ballistol and let it sit while I do the rest. I will spray all of the loose parts with balistol as well. Wipe down the outside and scrub inside the frame where the cylinder goes and get all of the leading and carbon out of there. I then run a bore snake down the barrel a couple of times and if I have shot lead, I will use a lewis lead remover to clean the forcing cone. I then go to the cylinder. I will hook up a brass brush in a drill and really clean the snot out of the cylinders. I will then scrub down the outside so that it is clean all over. I then use a birchwood casey lead removal cloth on the front end. It takes some scrubbing, but it gets clean eventually. Put it all back together with a light coating of oil and back into the safe for another year.

If it don't fit, it don't fit. I know that they didn't fit in all of the regular polymer grips.

Just did a private class with Max last weekend -- was amazing. A great tune up for the season. Max is one of the nicest shooters I have ever met and is very analytical and knowledgeable about technique. Some shooters are naturals and just shoot well and have never really thought of how or why they shoot well, that is not Max -- he knows exactly what makes a good shooter and conveys that in an easy to understand and reproducible way. I highly recommend his classes to all level of shooters.

Mine is still doing it with all calibers that I run in it. This is really frustrating.

Yep, you are pretty much limited to chrome if you want that look. You could ceracoat it, but regardless of what they say, ceracoat wears pretty darn quick. Especially on the parts that come in contact with the kydex holster.

Someone told me last weekend that this match has moved to the Greenwood Practical Shooters range in Greenwood, Texas. Is that correct? I see nothing about it on any of the sites.

If you do a little deeper investigation into the copper canyon finish and that gun in particular, you will find that the slide cracked on that gun very prematurely. I was told that the copper canyon finish hardened the metal so hard that it became very brittle. The gunsmith that I talked to said that he wouldn't use that finish again for that very reason. The old standby's are old standby's for a reason. They work and they last. I have duracoated guns and saw wear after the very first dryfire session. I followed the instructions to the letter. Some have better experiences than mine, but that is what I found with the various "paints"

It's worth a try. I need to get more powder before I can load more rounds, but I will try that once I get it up and running again.